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No More BOOM!
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06-10-2014, 05:46 PM | #1 |
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No More BOOM!
So the other day I was in the parking lot tuning my amp. As I'm figuring what sounds good and whats not too much the audio went COMPLETELY OUT so much for that. My radio does turn on switch channels etc but my amp does not at all nor the speakers or the sub. I disconnected the fuse thats link to Tech Harness but that didn't do a thing. What shall I try next? Thanks in advance!
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06-10-2014, 10:38 PM | #2 |
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Hey man sorry to hear the bad news about your amp it happened to me before. My friend is selling a l7 (logic 7) amp if your interested his number is 1 (646) 709-3948. Just shoot him a text or call.
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06-10-2014, 11:04 PM | #3 | |
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Thanks for reaching out but I have an upgraded amp (JL Audio XD700/5) so I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. |
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06-11-2014, 12:15 AM | #4 |
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Do you have power at the amp?
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06-11-2014, 12:35 AM | #5 |
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06-11-2014, 12:38 AM | #6 |
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Do you have proper voltage across remote wire and ground?
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iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
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06-11-2014, 01:24 AM | #7 |
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06-11-2014, 06:22 AM | #8 |
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You can't make assumptions that things are correct when you're troubleshooting a problem. You need to see if you have 12+ Volts from remote to ground.
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iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
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06-11-2014, 08:22 PM | #9 |
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If the factory amp is gone it won't send any signal to the Tech Harness which wouldn't send signal to the JL audio amp u have, I had aftermarket amps in my car & when my factory L7 amp blew I had to get another L7 amp.
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06-11-2014, 10:28 PM | #11 |
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Definitely need more info. If the amp isn't turning on and you have power ground and remote the amp is bad. Check it with a multimeter. I'm assuming you had the hifi system but you should confirm that.
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06-11-2014, 10:30 PM | #12 |
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He is only assuming he has remote turn on voltage. He needs to check.
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iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
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06-11-2014, 11:29 PM | #13 | |||||
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Sorry guys for not making myself clear if I did not. To summarize it all up I upgraded my audio system and replaced my Hifi amp with a JL Audio XD 700/5. I also added a sub which is a JL Audio 10w7. I have not had the chance to tune the amp so I did not want to risk blowing out the speakers or anything else that is audio related. This past weekend I had the chance too tune everything but during my tuning everything completely went out. My amp did not power on nor did the speakers and sub but I did see that my radio did turn on and was able to switch channels. First thing that came to mind was perhaps the fuse. I checked all the fuses in the glove box that was related to the radio but everything seem to be working fine (I tested them). Than I moved on to disconnecting everything and reconnecting it but still the same problem. As I looked further more I took a look into technics harness. The connection from the amp to the battery there is a fuse holder so I happen to take a look to see if there was power flowing. Come to find that I unscrewed the fuse holder took the AGU fuse that he uses out and it was completely done. So now Im thinking to myself heres the problem but to confirm I used some wire laying around connected the two and the amp turned out. Now I am looking into upgrading the fuse holder. Is it possible to keep the original set up but changing the fuse holder it self or would I just need to completely use something else? I read that ANL fuses hold up better is this true? I just so happen to pass by an audio place and they were telling me I would need to upgrade to ANL fuse and holder because of the set up I am powering. Any commendations? Thanks a lot fellas! |
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06-11-2014, 11:33 PM | #14 | |
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06-11-2014, 11:39 PM | #15 | |
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When I passed by the audio place the guy ask what set up I had and told him therefore he recommend me to upgrade to ANL fuse because the set up I have is too much power for that? Don't know but according to him thats what I was told. So I guessing the reason for it to have blown is because of too much power? I mean the thing hits hard but I am no expert so I would not know. |
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06-11-2014, 11:48 PM | #17 | |
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In the future, you may want to avoid that shop ..
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06-11-2014, 11:49 PM | #18 |
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It doesn't look great, but wouldn't cause a fuse to blow unless it was shorting to metal/ground.
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06-12-2014, 01:08 AM | #19 |
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Get a Volt/ohmeter if you don't have one.
Get a Volt/ohmeter if you don't have one.
And learn how to use it if you don't know how. About 20bucks at radio shack for a 3.5 digit digital meter. Check all your power connections for low resistance. Especially the ground . It should be almost un measurable. I would measure resistance to all the speakers with the power off too. (amp fuses out ) Others have reported high resistance grounds blowing fuses here. Whats the rating on the Fuse? What size power wire are you using? Is there still voltage on the point you plug into the battery distribution block . If not you may have blown one of the fusible links. These are some basic checks to try. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja I might be better to use and eyelet connector connected to the battery lug tightening screw than what you have there. A picture of the connections at the amp and the power wire routing and ground point might tell us something. How is your system wired as far as channel distribution. 2 channels to the front door , 2 to the floors , sub channel to the Sub I would assume. By Tech harness do you mean the Technic Harness and if so can you hear the relay switch for the turn on signal. Did you measure the turn on voltage? Do you have stock speakers or aftermarket in the factory positions? Where are the gains set? By the way never ever bypass a fuse. Unless you are trying to start a fire or destroy something. Last edited by ctuna; 06-12-2014 at 01:59 AM.. |
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06-12-2014, 08:35 PM | #20 |
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Please, never go to that shop ever again. A fuse holding up better makes no sense at all. An 80 amp fuse is an 80 amp fuse, no matter what style it is. You need to figure out why it blew. What's the amperage eating of the amp vs the amperage rating of the fuse that blew? Did a speaker wire short out somewhere?
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iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
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06-12-2014, 10:29 PM | #21 | |
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I greatly thank you for this. Over the weekend I will go ever everything mentioned and see if I can give you answers. I am fairly new to this so bear with me. But I'll double check and run test on what may have cause this and take notes on the power outage. |
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06-12-2014, 10:35 PM | #22 | |
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It was a shop that I just so happen to pass by so I said whatever lets see... Im a newbie so I'll answer that question as I think I understand it but if I understand correct if it was a short out I would only hear the music from a certain speaker correct? If so I heard them all playing the same way it was before. But would it play a factor if the amp fuse is lets say 20 compared to a 100 one? Just curious. |
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