[Padfan9]

So you have the Dinan Stage 2 with all those mods at 15 psi and I am guessing you got about 400BHP with 365whp.....that's not bad.100bhp gain from stock with over 100ftq.

Dinan does give you the warranty but thats without other mods. I do not believe it would cover you with the downpipes. Taking the cats off isn't a great idea...

I heard the HKS BOV isn't great, but I have heard great things about synapse and tial q, I was going to go with tial q, but I am about to order the charge pipe+synapse this week. Can you even hear the BOV releasing air?

[lmaus]

My bet is the HPFP relating to the Dinan flash.

[tibra1]

Originally Posted by boom

If it's on the street, then it's the tune not being set up for the downpipes. The turbos are spooling faster than expected and the corresponding overshoot and the subsequent opening of the wastegates/throttle closure is causing this. I'll bet if you swapped your stock dps in the oscillation would go away. Get a cobb or a giac.

+1 I would ditch the DINAN and go w GIAC..you really dont have a warranty thru them since you have a bunch of non-Dinan parts..GIAC stg 2 is setup for full catless.

[Cozy]

Compressor surge is when the engine is unable to consume the air at 'X' RPM that the turbo is forcing at the throttle body. Basically this is overboost and pretty dangerous/wearing to your turbocharger's shafts if left untreated. A good way to diagnose this without boost guages or diagnostic road logging is by listening for an audible & rapid 'chuff chuff chuff' sound under WOT, is it doing this? While this is happening boost will be fluctuating up & down rapidly making the car feel extremely hestitant in rapid bursts, do you have a guage or any way to log boost pressure under a WOT run?

The most common cause of this is mapping, the ECU is simply requesting too much boost at 'X' RPM for the engine to consume at that point meaning that as it cannot get into the throttle body it has no choice but to back up in the intercooler system right through to the turbocharger compressor housing which is why you'll hear that rapid "chuff" sound as the blades of the compressor wheel chop the air.

Accompanied with this can be an inefficient intercooler setup, I notice that you don't state you have one. If the intercoolers are unable to flow enough then again it will cause a bottleneck in your turbo system and air to build up.

Additionally, compressor surge can be experienced by those who have upgraded their turbo intake pipes & down pipes, creating extra flow & turbo spool but leaving in inefficient (for a tuned ar at least) intercoolers. It is always best to change all items associated with turbo air flow to get the best from it and ensure problem free running.

If what I have described sounds like what you have then I recommend a good/proven FMIC setup & ECU mapping to suit.

I'm an Audi guy (don't shoot, soon to be a 335i owner) and had these issues with my car. Although a different engine altogether the fudamentals of all TC systems are the same however, does the N54 have any sort of boost control solenoid? On the 4cyl or 5cyl Audi these regularly give up and either cause overboost or bleed all boost to the wastegate as a consequence. You might not have to worry here but I thought I'd mention it.

[Slickrat]

Originally Posted by boom

Exactly. The target is 13.8 but the car is spiking because the dps are letting spool much faster then closing throttle, opening wastegates. Wash, rinse, repeat.

so because theres 15-16 lbs of boost its trying to correct it..??

[Slickrat]

Originally Posted by JamJay

Compressor surge is when the engine is unable to consume the air at 'X' RPM that the turbo is forcing at the throttle body. Basically this is overboost and pretty dangerous/wearing to your turbocharger's shafts if left untreated. A good way to diagnose this without boost guages or diagnostic road logging is by listening for an audible & rapid 'chuff chuff chuff' sound under WOT, is it doing this? While this is happening boost will be fluctuating up & down rapidly making the car feel extremely hestitant in rapid bursts, do you have a guage or any way to log boost pressure under a WOT run?

The most common cause of this is mapping, the ECU is simply requesting too much boost at 'X' RPM for the engine to consume at that point meaning that as it cannot get into the throttle body it has no choice but to back up in the intercooler system right through to the turbocharger compressor housing which is why you'll hear that rapid "chuff" sound as the blades of the compressor wheel chop the air.

Accompanied with this can be an inefficient intercooler setup, I notice that you don't state you have one. If the intercoolers are unable to flow enough then again it will cause a bottleneck in your turbo system and air to build up.

Additionally, compressor surge can be experienced by those who have upgraded their turbo intake pipes & down pipes, creating extra flow & turbo spool but leaving in inefficient (for a tuned ar at least) intercoolers. It is always best to change all items associated with turbo air flow to get the best from it and ensure problem free running.

If what I have described sounds like what you have then I recommend a good/proven FMIC setup & ECU mapping to suit.

I'm an Audi guy (don't shoot, soon to be a 335i owner) and had these issues with my car. Although a different engine altogether the fudamentals of all TC systems are the same however, does the N54 have any sort of boost control solenoid? On the 4cyl or 5cyl Audi these regularly give up and either cause overboost or bleed all boost to the wastegate as a consequence. You might not have to worry here but I thought I'd mention it.

its definately not making the chuff chuff noise at all...its all out of the exhaust that i'm hearing....i do have a boost gauge and it seems to spike 16 and hold around 15 under boost..I will pay more attention to this though...Now the sound only happens when I start from low rpm and step on it...if i'm at a high rpm like 4k and punch it its fine, pulls hard and does not do it...I have a dinan s2 tune and I thought it would be fine but I dont know what other tuning programs can be installed with the s2 computer already in the car

[Slickrat]

Originally Posted by Padfan9

So you have the Dinan Stage 2 with all those mods at 15 psi and I am guessing you got about 400BHP with 365whp.....that's not bad.100bhp gain from stock with over 100ftq.

Dinan does give you the warranty but thats without other mods. I do not believe it would cover you with the downpipes. Taking the cats off isn't a great idea...

I heard the HKS BOV isn't great, but I have heard great things about synapse and tial q, I was going to go with tial q, but I am about to order the charge pipe+synapse this week. Can you even hear the BOV releasing air?

yes bov works ok....I had the tial and its way to quiet...I also had synapse, I did not like the synapse it delayed blow off

[Irishace]

I am not trying to be a jerk but please help me understand the point of a $2000 Dinan flash when you are installing or have installed other aftermarket parts which will clearly void your Dinan warranty. If you want a flash and have non-dinan aftermarket parts, go GIAC or Cobb.

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by Slickrat

Heres my Mods and My video...

2009 335i
Dinan S2 Flash
Rpi exhaust cat back
Catless DP's
Stett Charge pipe HKS bov
Injen Intake
Riss Racing Catch Can
Clutch Delay valve
Kw V2 suspension
BBS LM 19''
TWM STS

Overall good numbers 360whp 400tq

You got 360whp / 400wtq on Dinan Stage 2 ? Sorry you need to go to another Dyno shop perhaps one that has a Mustang Dyno.

Dinan stage 2 does not in no way give 360WHP and 400WTQ regardless of how much you christmas treed your car in mods. Get another Dyno done from another shop.

[nitehawk]

Originally Posted by Slickrat

its definately not making the chuff chuff noise at all...its all out of the exhaust that i'm hearing....i do have a boost gauge and it seems to spike 16 and hold around 15 under boost..I will pay more attention to this though...Now the sound only happens when I start from low rpm and step on it...if i'm at a high rpm like 4k and punch it its fine, pulls hard and does not do it...I have a dinan s2 tune and I thought it would be fine but I dont know what other tuning programs can be installed with the s2 computer already in the car

So there is no fluctuation in boost, even at low rpm pulls when you hear the noise? Do you feel any hesitation/stumbling during this time?

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Dinan I assume, picked up your warranty. If there is engine damage they should cover it. Let them know right away about this issue.

Not with those non-Dinan mods he wont. He walks into a dealer with those mods they will flag that car and Dinan will know about it.

Even if he goes straight to Dinan they will tell him he needs to go to a Dinan dealer. When the dealer sees those mods its over, his VIN with Dinan get flagged also.

[Litos]

lets get this straight - Dinan's "warranty" is a mess.

Dinan will not cover a blown engine - their warranty will cover the a bricked ECU though because the Dinan flash affects the ECU.

have there been any reported Dinan Warranty's that have covered broken engines ??

just curious.......

[F3thirty5]

Originally Posted by Slickrat

so because theres 15-16 lbs of boost its trying to correct it..??

I am running the Dinan S2 tune also. I haven't had any of the issues you described. My rixter boost gauge also shows about 16 lbs max. I am running AR Catless DP's, AE Catless Exhaust, Helix Intercooler, Injen Intake. I am not using any kind of BOV (I didn't really understand the benefit of it besides the cool noise). The car pulls consistently throughout the entire rpm range. To be honest, on the top end side, it pulls so hard its scary. I got the S2 tune when my car was brand new at the dealer I bought the car from. With each modification I made, my car performed better and better and I didn't see a real need to change. I guess I am letting you know its possible to have success with this tune. Its a daily driver and its f'ing fun to drive every day!

[nitehawk]

Originally Posted by cramp

I am running the Dinan S2 tune also. I haven't had any of the issues you described. My rixter boost gauge also shows about 16 lbs max. I am running AR Catless DP's, AE Catless Exhaust, Helix Intercooler, Injen Intake. I am not using any kind of BOV (I didn't really understand the benefit of it besides the cool noise). The car pulls consistently throughout the entire rpm range. To be honest, on the top end side, it pulls so hard its scary. I got the S2 tune when my car was brand new at the dealer I bought the car from. With each modification I made, my car performed better and better and I didn't see a real need to change. I guess I am letting you know its possible to have success with this tune. Its a daily driver and its f'ing fun to drive every day!

So the catless DPs allow for a higher to spool up to 16 Psi, even though the max target is ~13.2 on dinan s2?

OP, I would suggest getting your car redynoed at another shop...that may help eliminate the link between the noise you are hearing and the fluctuation that you see on the dyno graph.

[achien]

no issues with Dinan S2 so far (touch wood!!!)...

you have to accept there are always "lemons" because the QC process is not perfect (not even the Japanese).

Originally Posted by Litos

lets get this straight - Dinan's "warranty" is a mess.

Dinan will not cover a blown engine - their warranty will cover the a bricked ECU though because the Dinan flash affects the ECU.

have there been any reported Dinan Warranty's that have covered broken engines ??

just curious.......

+1, money worth spent so far...

Originally Posted by cramp

I am running the Dinan S2 tune also. I haven't had any of the issues you described. My rixter boost gauge also shows about 16 lbs max. I am running AR Catless DP's, AE Catless Exhaust, Helix Intercooler, Injen Intake. I am not using any kind of BOV (I didn't really understand the benefit of it besides the cool noise). The car pulls consistently throughout the entire rpm range. To be honest, on the top end side, it pulls so hard its scary. I got the S2 tune when my car was brand new at the dealer I bought the car from. With each modification I made, my car performed better and better and I didn't see a real need to change. I guess I am letting you know its possible to have success with this tune. Its a daily driver and its f'ing fun to drive every day!

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by Litos

lets get this straight - Dinan's "warranty" is a mess.

Dinan will not cover a blown engine - their warranty will cover the a bricked ECU though because the Dinan flash affects the ECU.

have there been any reported Dinan Warranty's that have covered broken engines ??

just curious.......

Funny, I just got my car back today after ONE MONTH, they rebuilt my engine, new valves, new cylindar head, new pipes, new egnition coils, sparks plugs, the list just goes on and on. It was all covered under CPO, all I paid for was a break flush.

Got about six pages of nothing but parts that didnt cost me a darn dime.

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by nitehawk

So the catless DPs allow for a higher to spool up to 16 Psi, even though the max target is ~13.2 on dinan s2?

OP, I would suggest getting your car redynoed at another shop...that may help eliminate the link between the noise you are hearing and the fluctuation that you see on the dyno graph.

That is what had my head spinning. Dinan stage 2 boost target is in the 13s stage 3 is 14-15. If he had stage 3 with DP then that would be reasonable for it to peak 16 psi

[F3thirty5]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

That is what had my head spinning. Dinan stage 2 boost target is in the 13s stage 3 is 14-15. If he had stage 3 with DP then that would be reasonable for it to peak 16 psi

The order of my mods went like this: Brand new car from factory had the S2 tune installed about 3 weeks later. (had no boost gauge so I can't tell you what the psi was). I had little or no idea about JB, Procede, Cobb, etc. I went with the S2 tune because the dealership explained they were authorized and it made a night and day difference. I did notice however, that the S2 tune had a throttle response gap. In other words it felt like the power all came in at once. Basically, not a gradual climb in torque and pull. I spoke to Dinan about this a few months later. They said to take it back to the dealer and get the re-flash for the S2 that will cure this problem. After the re-flash, it had the response I wanted. Power throughout the entire rpm range. After reading, I learned about all the mods out there. I decided to go the bolt on route. I did the AE catless exhaust second. I did the Helix intercooler third. At this time, I had the rixter vent boost gauge installed. The highest boost achieved with those mods was 13.5 to 13.8. I put in the AR Catless downpipes with the 02 sensor fix. My psi now went into the high 14's. Lastly, I put in the Injen intake. Previously I had a performance drop-in filter. My PSI now hits 15.8, low 16's. After each mod, the car performed better and better to where it stands now. I can truly say the car pulls from start to finish. No hesitation, shoots out of the hole great (I have an XI) and it pulls hard start to finish. I am very happy with the performance and I drive it every day rain or shine or snow about 50 miles. Sorry I don't have any explanations, just can tell you what happened to me!

[Litos]

Originally Posted by BuraQ

Funny, I just got my car back today after ONE MONTH, they rebuilt my engine, new valves, new cylindar head, new pipes, new egnition coils, sparks plugs, the list just goes on and on. It was all covered under CPO, all I paid for was a break flush.

Got about six pages of nothing but parts that didnt cost me a darn dime.

that's expected under CPO - but did the Dinan flash cause it to grenade !?!?

[nitehawk]

Originally Posted by cramp

The order of my mods went like this: Brand new car from factory had the S2 tune installed about 3 weeks later. (had no boost gauge so I can't tell you what the psi was). I had little or no idea about JB, Procede, Cobb, etc. I went with the S2 tune because the dealership explained they were authorized and it made a night and day difference. I did notice however, that the S2 tune had a throttle response gap. In other words it felt like the power all came in at once. Basically, not a gradual climb in torque and pull. I spoke to Dinan about this a few months later. They said to take it back to the dealer and get the re-flash for the S2 that will cure this problem. After the re-flash, it had the response I wanted. Power throughout the entire rpm range. After reading, I learned about all the mods out there. I decided to go the bolt on route. I did the AE catless exhaust second. I did the Helix intercooler third. At this time, I had the rixter vent boost gauge installed. The highest boost achieved with those mods was 13.5 to 13.8. I put in the AR Catless downpipes with the 02 sensor fix. My psi now went into the high 14's. Lastly, I put in the Injen intake. Previously I had a performance drop-in filter. My PSI now hits 15.8, low 16's. After each mod, the car performed better and better to where it stands now. I can truly say the car pulls from start to finish. No hesitation, shoots out of the hole great (I have an XI) and it pulls hard start to finish. I am very happy with the performance and I drive it every day rain or shine or snow about 50 miles. Sorry I don't have any explanations, just can tell you what happened to me!

That's very interesting. Glad to hear car pulls nicely. You would think the ECU would try and correct for the increase in boost. What part of the intake is your boost gauge getting its reading from?