[._.]

The dealer told me that alot of error codes in my car were voltage related and that at one time the battery was reading 6v.

Could this be the result of an unregistered battery or a bad battery? The battery is less than a month old btw.

Thanks

[Glim]

Are you getting a yellow battery warning light?

Who/where/what installed the battery a month ago?

Why did you replace the battery 1 month ago?

[._.]

I have not seen a battery warning light.
The battery indicator is green on top of the battery.

It is a Duralast battery that I installed.

The battery was replaced because the OEM battery was not holding charging.

[noobster]

so i guess it wasn't registered and programmed? that is more than likely your issue.

[iflyjetzzz]

Originally Posted by noobster

so i guess it wasn't registered and programmed? that is more than likely your issue.

That'd be my guess. Occam's Razor.

Register the battery; you can get that done cheaply at an indy shop if you don't want to do it through the dealer.
If you like being a wrench bender (weekend/hobby mechanic), get a good OBDI scan tool and register the battery yourself. I don't have a scan tool but there are plenty of people on this forum who have bought them.
Make sure that the scan tool is for your car; read up on it if you want to go down that path.

Unfortunately, the BMW's electrics have gone beyond the point where you can simply replace the battery without any additional programming. Welcome to the world of the modern mechanic/German automobile.

[Glim]

Sounds extreme

Was it the same CCA size battery? Same lead acid or AGM?

My guess is your alternator or voltage regulator is having issues, do you know what codes they pulled?

I had a yellow battery warning when mine was running out of juice and the battery was old and no longer displaying a green dot.

I didn't register the new battery right away as I wanted to see what would happen; nothing coded or shadow faulted, voltage looked normal.

Registered it and many months later everything is still normal.

[._.]

cca is higher than the oem battery. Its the same lead acid. I just tested the battery's voltage and it's reading 12v. I'm going to get it registered tomorrow and hopefully that helps. I only get the engine malfunction under high load (high rpm), otherwise it's all good.

[Glim]

These errors sound extreme for a simple case of not registering the battery, but you are about to find out...

Sorry for your money drain; the outcome will be very interesting.

[._.]

so, I won't be able to get the registration done until the weekend. Today I got an ABS malfunction warning that went away with a restart. Starting to look like a faulty battery to me, pulling the battery and installing in the autozone parking lot is making me cringe.

[Glim]

Do you have the option of putting your old battery back in?

[._.]

no, took it in for the core refund. Coincidentally the problems did not start until I did so.

[Tom K.]

When I got a Low Battery Voltage warning, the problem was ultimately traced to a bad IBS unit. Registering the new battery will allow the IBS to properly set the charging rate; otherwise the system could be overcharging (mine was at 17+volts!) or undercharging.

So get your new battery registered.

Tom

[Glim]

I still think this is going to end up being a faulty alternator or voltage regulator(IBS.)

[._.]

I registered the battery, it was set to 90ah when my battery was 80ah. Now I am consistently getting an ABS error, the two codes I am reading are:

5df0 - pump unit faulty
5df1 - pump unit plug faulty

No matter how many times I clear it it instantly re-triggers. Is anyone familiar with these codes and is this an easy DIY replacement?

Thanks

[Glim]

Charge the battery, use an intelligent charger set to your battery type and use the battery connections under the hood.

Check fuses 20, 35, 59, 65

Video on fusebox DIY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s5GHRZaLFA

[Glim]

Originally Posted by r45t4m4n

Now I am consistently getting an ABS error, the two codes I am reading are:

5df0 - pump unit faulty
5df1 - pump unit plug faulty

No matter how many times I clear it it instantly re-triggers.

Sorry, forgot, to include that this is your ABS pump motor, DSC, etc.

[._.]

My fuse diagram is missing so I have been searching around, I found a scan of a fuse sheet that lists 20,31,59,65 as the abs, dsc fuses. Is it sufficient to visually inspect them or should I run continuity test with a multimeter?

[Glim]

Originally Posted by r45t4m4n

My fuse diagram is missing so I have been searching around, I found a scan of a fuse sheet that lists 20,31,59,65 as the abs, dsc fuses. Is it sufficient to visually inspect them or should I run continuity test with a multimeter?

Use the glovebox flashlight, open the fuse panel in the glove box, pull the fuse puller off of the fuse box, it is the orange bit that is attached to the fuse box in the middle of the fuses to the right of the big square relays.



The fuse puller has two sides, one smaller for the tiny fuses and one larger for the larger fuses. Pinch the oposite end of the puller to release the fuse once you have it in place.

If the metal wire shaped like a U inside the fuse is blown (two sides no longer connected, no longer looks like a U) then you need to replace it.

Picture of diagram and fuse box

[._.]

Turns out the DCS pump was dead, they are replacing it for me today. Have not had any battery issues since registering it. Thanks for the help.

[Abutler330i]

Don't forget to have a dealer reset that top battery plate piece