[Josh1a1h]

Hi Guys...

I am new to coding, and i am going to be playing with it all very soon... Not me personally, but i will be advising and using my garages tools...

Plus i just want to better my understanding for coding lights initially.


Amending existing code, and turning off specific checks such as the Fog light checks: Code below... Means that you can then install a fog light HID kit which is not CANBUS ready? Nor do they need any resistors or capacitors fitted because codes will not be read?

So as long as your wiring is all correct, grounds are well grounded etc... then you shouldn't receive any start up codes, or codes appearing when running the car? Is it as simple as that?

FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_NSW_L
nicht_aktiv
FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_NSW_R
nicht_aktiv
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_L
nicht_aktiv
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_R
nicht_aktiv
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_L
nicht_aktiv
WARMUEBERWACHUNG_NSW_R
nicht_aktiv

If i installed a regular HID Fog kit, would amending this code just prevent codes being thrown? OR would it also stop the start up bulb check for the fog lights?

Can someone please explain the difference between warm and cold checks?

I was hoping to remove the codes for my Angel eyes, Fogs, and my reverse lights.

As i will be instructing my Garage on how to amend the current code... Where will the code for the Fogs, Angels and Reverse lights be? Is it difficult to find the code which needs amending?


If you believe there is anything else i need to know... I welcome all help!

Very much appreciated!

Best,

Josh

[Josh1a1h]

No one? Doesnt have to be a long reply.. short and sweet is best

[ZZZZ]

I haven't done this yet on my car either, but based on my previous questions and reading you are correct.

Cold checks is the check when the ignition is on (before you start the car)
Warm checks is while the car is running.

By disabling both checks you can put different bulbs in there and will not have any bulb-out errors on your dashboard or fast-flashing turnsignals with LED bulbs that are not canbus ready.

[Josh1a1h]

ZZZZ thank you for getting back to me.

This is great...

So as long as everything is connected, and working correctly and the codes are coded out... I should have no problems.

Now i just need to make sure my HID Reverse light install goes correctly... Need to find some relays to take the stress away from the stock wiring.

[ZZZZ]

Originally Posted by Josh1a1h

ZZZZ thank you for getting back to me.

This is great...

So as long as everything is connected, and working correctly and the codes are coded out... I should have no problems.

Now i just need to make sure my HID Reverse light install goes correctly... Need to find some relays to take the stress away from the stock wiring.

Any car stereo shop will have the relays you need for your HID reverse lights. My primary concerns would be melting of the light lenses, and finding a proper mounting area for the ballasts where they can be properly vented.

Just wondering if you've ever considers putting in some wireless rear parking sensors instead, or a wireless reverse cam with the display hidden in your rearview mirror or dash mounted display instead of the HID reverse lights?

Another option to get more light output when reversing if of course to add a relay to turn on your rear turn signals along with your reverse lights when reversing... (may be able to code this too as an option?)

Just some ideas.

[Josh1a1h]

Thanks for the input bud...

I am not so handy with electrics, but do you know whether or not i should be looking at a specific Relay? considering a ballast requires 8-9amps of power to start and stock bulbs only require 2amps... Should i be looking at something in particular?

I back down some VERY dark areas, and my fog lights, my turn lights etc... are just not enough to safely illuminate the road. My parking sensors dont work as i may fall of the edge of a small drop... Reverse cam, is very expensive to wire into my OEM iDrive...

HIDs do get do not get terribly hot. The stock 22watt bulb is only a little cooler than a 35watt bulb... it wont be on for excessive amounts of time... 30 seconds at most which is not long enough to melt anything.

I know ballasts dont like being turned on and off, but i do it with my OEM Ballasts and they are fine... If they blow, ill just change them out.

Ballasts would be mounted directly to the metal of the body so hopefully that should help disperse a little heat...

Many have been running them in other cars without problems, so i should be alright. Just have to make sure i have the correct relay

Best,