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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > New spark plugs @ 53k ??



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      12-28-2011, 10:42 PM   #23
queensfield
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Wow, weird dealer.

You can change plugs yourself. They are easy, but requires removal of cowl and other easy take out and put on stuff.
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      12-29-2011, 02:18 AM   #24
asiannoodles
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Anyone know if i use these spark plugs, will it void my warranty ?

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335...6821/ES257800/
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      12-29-2011, 09:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asiannoodles View Post
Anyone know if i use these spark plugs, will it void my warranty ?

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335i-N54_3.0L/Search/ES257800_ES264141_ES199994_ES1306821/ES257800/
If you're under warranty you're dealership should take care of the plugs for you. But if you still want to change them yourself I would suggest the genuine BMW plugs as they are the exact plugs your dealer would use therefore no need to worry about any warranty issues. What's your build date so we can make sure you'd be getting the correct genuine BMW plugs.

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      12-29-2011, 11:06 AM   #26
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I complainted to my dealer to have mine changed at 48k. They didn't want to until I poped out the service book and it stated 45k. Got me some new plugs for free.
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      12-29-2011, 11:02 PM   #27
asiannoodles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
If you're under warranty you're dealership should take care of the plugs for you. But if you still want to change them yourself I would suggest the genuine BMW plugs as they are the exact plugs your dealer would use therefore no need to worry about any warranty issues. What's your build date so we can make sure you'd be getting the correct genuine BMW plugs.

ECS Tuning
I have a 2008 335i cab
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      12-30-2011, 09:54 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asiannoodles View Post
I have a 2008 335i cab
In thank case the plugs found HERE are the genuine BMW plugs for your car.

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      12-31-2011, 09:32 AM   #29
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make sure you follow the steps for the n54 spark plug change. There are alot of people throwing some misinformation here. You DO NOT use antiseize and should not gap 3 prong plugs. If they arrive and are bent you should return them as defective. They have a collar that keeps the prongs from being bent. They are referred to as pre gapped.

Also a correct torque is important.
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      12-31-2011, 11:14 AM   #30
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Splitting HAIRS

Ok - I do agree there is a lot of mis info here and all over the net.
.
.
As far as anti-seize --- on spark plugs --- if done properly -- a small stripe between the 2-4th thread with only Copper Based -- it will provide removal support for a steel / alum dissimilar metal corrosion condition -- esp in a very hot running engine like the N54. Absolutley must use a T-wrench and with the anti you will be at the high end of the torque range & if this bothers you then reduce 20% . The nominal torque value is what is provided & who knows how accurate your T-Wrench really is -- 3% range is normal but with age / wear they are often out of the 3% tolerance band.

SNUG + 1/6 turn is a good indicator in most applications.
.
.
Just differences in opinion / experience.
.
So - I am in the Bentley Manual Camp -- where they use their experience to formulate a solution & if followed accuately, is the best advice - in my opinion.
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      12-31-2011, 11:53 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider86 View Post
Bring it to an indy shop.
The rest of this thrread is a FAIL. Everyone is assuming that the OP can diy. Not everyone knows how to turn a wrench. Also, if Maryland is like NY which has their inpsection services performed by a shop then you are screwed. I never understood why they set it up that way. There should be a rule that the inspection shop cannot make repairs to a car, otherwise it gives them incentive to fail it and "fix" it. Here in IL inspection places are state runned and they do not service cars.

Good luck and Happy New Year!
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      12-31-2011, 05:41 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123Britt View Post
Ok - I do agree there is a lot of mis info here and all over the net.
.
.
As far as anti-seize --- on spark plugs --- if done properly -- a small stripe between the 2-4th thread with only Copper Based -- it will provide removal support for a steel / alum dissimilar metal corrosion condition -- esp in a very hot running engine like the N54. Absolutley must use a T-wrench and with the anti you will be at the high end of the torque range & if this bothers you then reduce 20% . The nominal torque value is what is provided & who knows how accurate your T-Wrench really is -- 3% range is normal but with age / wear they are often out of the 3% tolerance band.

SNUG + 1/6 turn is a good indicator in most applications.
.
.
Just differences in opinion / experience.
.
So - I am in the Bentley Manual Camp -- where they use their experience to formulate a solution & if followed accuately, is the best advice - in my opinion.
So are you saying using my Ingersol Rand 2131 impact wrench (set to the lowest torque setting) is a bad idea?
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