[SomeRandomer123]

Don't worry, I'm having not DPF issues but if one were to have the amber Clogged DPF warning symbol, what would be the best thing to do? I hear lots of conflicting advice.
So along with advice, I have some questions.
1) Does the amber symbol mean 50% clogged?
2) Would using lower gears on the motorway (5th or 4th) increase the temperature to start a passive regeneration or would the less engine load actually mean the temperature change is negligible?
3) Should you go on a long, motorway journey and trust the car will undertake active regeneration?
4) Should you drive hard, full throttle where possible and to the red-line?
5) Is performance/economy adversely affected?
6) Should you just get it in a workshop and have it cleaned?

If one were to get the red DPF symbol, what is the best advice?
Also;
1) Should you stop immediately and have it towed to a dealer/workshop?
2) Try for a passive regen by driving hard as mentioned above?
3) Long motorway drive, trusting for an active regen?
4) Is the DPF recoverable or is a new one required?
5) Does this mean 75% clogged?

Tah!
Leave anecdotes if you can!

[Dziqsek_]

Go to motorway and try to maintain 3000rpm ( with cruise control if you have one) for about 30 miles ( when your engine have optimal temp) that should start DPF cleaning procedure. Hard driving with accelerate to redline etc will prevent dpf to block and keeps it clean, driving gently in city will cause dpf to block in about 300-700 miles.
Dealers always said that you need new DPF but thats just bullshit, you just reset your dpf service by BC and you free to go, you can already use some fuel addictive to help clean it up

If you have a friend with DIS he can help you activate dpf cleaning procedure

[SomeRandomer123]

Originally Posted by *******_

Go to motorway and try to maintain 3000rpm ( with cruise control if you have one) for about 30 miles ( when your engine have optimal temp) that should start DPF cleaning procedure. Hard driving with accelerate to redline etc will prevent dpf to block and keeps it clean, driving gently in city will cause dpf to block in about 300-700 miles.
Dealers always said that you need new DPF but thats just bullshit, you just reset your dpf service by BC and you free to go, you can already use some fuel addictive to help clean it up

If you have a friend with DIS he can help you activate dpf cleaning procedure

Hmm...
I think 3000rpm in 6th puts me about 120mph so perhaps 5th or 4th! :P

[hotrod2448]

Well, If I were in europe... a clogged DPF would mean installing a DPF-less down pipe and a tune.

[adriang]

Originally Posted by hotrod2448

Well, If I were in europe... a clogged DPF would mean installing a DPF-less down pipe and a tune.

Niceeeee haha.. Then comes the smoke!

[SomeRandomer123]

Originally Posted by hotrod2448

Well, If I were in europe... a clogged DPF would mean installing a DPF-less down pipe and a tune.

Haha, it would work beautifully but I'm not gonna be doing that! I won't need to worry about it in the near future either, my diesel days are coming to an end! Would love a 335d afterwards though!

[hotrod2448]

See in red for my thoughts.

Originally Posted by SomeRandomer123

Don't worry, I'm having not DPF issues but if one were to have the amber Clogged DPF warning symbol, what would be the best thing to do? I hear lots of conflicting advice.
So along with advice, I have some questions.
1) Does the amber symbol mean 50% clogged? No idea
2) Would using lower gears on the motorway (5th or 4th) increase the temperature to start a passive regeneration or would the less engine load actually mean the temperature change is negligible?I would probably use lower gears for a little while to get everything good and hot and then run the car in high gear to keep the load on and get the EGT's up. The way I understand the regen wants consistent light throttle.
3) Should you go on a long, motorway journey and trust the car will undertake active regeneration?I think this would be a good thing based on what I understand the ECU looking for when burning off.
4) Should you drive hard, full throttle where possible and to the red-line?I'd say no, just making more soot and not meeting the requirement to burn off.
5) Is performance/economy adversely affected? Any restriction in the exhaust is going to hurt both.
6) Should you just get it in a workshop and have it cleaned? Dunno.

If one were to get the red DPF symbol, what is the best advice?
Also;
1) Should you stop immediately and have it towed to a dealer/workshop?I would say to severely try to limit the amount you drive it. The EGT's will probably be very high with a significant exhaust restriction.
2) Try for a passive regen by driving hard as mentioned above? Based on another member's posts I'd say this likely won't be possible due to the exhaust restriction.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=575077
3) Long motorway drive, trusting for an active regen?At this point I probably wouldn't and just take to the shop.
4) Is the DPF recoverable or is a new one required?No idea.
5) Does this mean 75% clogged? No idea.

Tah!
Leave anecdotes if you can!

[Thud]

Originally Posted by SomeRandomer123

Don't worry, I'm having not DPF issues but if one were to have the amber Clogged DPF warning symbol, what would be the best thing to do? I hear lots of conflicting advice.
So along with advice, I have some questions.
1) Does the amber symbol mean 50% clogged?
2) Would using lower gears on the motorway (5th or 4th) increase the temperature to start a passive regeneration or would the less engine load actually mean the temperature change is negligible?
3) Should you go on a long, motorway journey and trust the car will undertake active regeneration?
4) Should you drive hard, full throttle where possible and to the red-line?
5) Is performance/economy adversely affected?
6) Should you just get it in a workshop and have it cleaned?

If one were to get the red DPF symbol, what is the best advice?
Also;
1) Should you stop immediately and have it towed to a dealer/workshop?
2) Try for a passive regen by driving hard as mentioned above?
3) Long motorway drive, trusting for an active regen?
4) Is the DPF recoverable or is a new one required?
5) Does this mean 75% clogged?

Tah!
Leave anecdotes if you can!

A few months ago somebody posted some technical information from BMW regarding the DPF regen cycle; basically, a full complete regen involves driving at a constant speed on the highway for at least 20 miles. 3000rpm sounds pretty ludicrous though-- just leave it in drive and let the computer figure it out. It'll do what's necessary to maintain the high exhaust temp that's needed, which usually involves increasing the shift points (like running in DS mode) along with injecting additional fuel into the exhaust stream (hence the temporary drop in fuel economy).

The current models allow DPF regen in a wide variety of driving conditions though; the highway scenario is the "best case." DPF regen has to happen after the exhaust reaches a certain temperature, and if you cut off the engine in the middle of a cycle it will probably re-start the cycle next time you drive.

Also, if you're in a regen cycle and you get stuck in traffic, the regen cycle will stop if the exhaust temperature drops too far.

So, what will clog your DPF is if you drive a lot of short trips that don't allow the exhaust to come up to full temperature.

Hard driving with accelerate to redline etc will prevent dpf to block and keeps it clean, driving gently in city will cause dpf to block in about 300-700 miles.

This doesn't make sense to me.... hard driving increases fuel usage which increases soot which increases DPF load. It just means you will have more frequent regen cycles.

I wish there was some indicator that tells you when a regen is occurring; the only signs I see are a sudden decrease in the DTE reading, and that faint "oven cleaning" smell if the windows are open, which was much more pronounced when the car was new.

[SomeRandomer123]

Originally Posted by Thud

A few months ago somebody posted some technical information from BMW regarding the DPF regen cycle; basically, a full complete regen involves driving at a constant speed on the highway for at least 20 miles. 3000rpm sounds pretty ludicrous though-- just leave it in drive and let the computer figure it out. It'll do what's necessary to maintain the high exhaust temp that's needed, which usually involves increasing the shift points (like running in DS mode) along with injecting additional fuel into the exhaust stream (hence the temporary drop in fuel economy).

The current models allow DPF regen in a wide variety of driving conditions though; the highway scenario is the "best case." DPF regen has to happen after the exhaust reaches a certain temperature, and if you cut off the engine in the middle of a cycle it will probably re-start the cycle next time you drive.

Also, if you're in a regen cycle and you get stuck in traffic, the regen cycle will stop if the exhaust temperature drops too far.

So, what will clog your DPF is if you drive a lot of short trips that don't allow the exhaust to come up to full temperature.

This doesn't make sense to me.... hard driving increases fuel usage which increases soot which increases DPF load. It just means you will have more frequent regen cycles.

I wish there was some indicator that tells you when a regen is occurring; the only signs I see are a sudden decrease in the DTE reading, and that faint "oven cleaning" smell if the windows are open, which was much more pronounced when the car was new.

Well, being a manual, I couldn't trust the car to figure the gears and rpm out for itself, otherwise I would be mightily shocked and also rather scared.
I agree there should be some way of letting you know a DPF regen is occuring actively. Is there nothing in the OB hidden menu (between the dials)? Or a DPF "clog" %?

[Thud]

Originally Posted by SomeRandomer123

Well, being a manual, I couldn't trust the car to figure the gears and rpm out for itself, otherwise I would be mightily shocked and also rather scared.
I agree there should be some way of letting you know a DPF regen is occuring actively. Is there nothing in the OB hidden menu (between the dials)? Or a DPF "clog" %?

Ah, I should've read your sig, I assumed you had a 335d. At any rate, I've never observed my car cruising at 3000rpm during a regen cycle. If anything it just moves the shift points higher but I still cruise in 6th gear while regenerating.

[Dziqsek_]

I always use 4th gear, set it up over 3000rpm and drive about 20 minuts, sometimes car gets convulsion durning regeneration ( but i have 4pot ) and thats all, sometimes i can see above me a small black cloud when regeneration is over