[Dynomyte]

Hey guys I wrote a month back about my issue.

Basically, one day my water pump decided to fail so I took the car to the dealer and got water pump and thermostat replaced.

As soon as got the car back I noticed that my oil temperature would rise quicker than usual and higher than usual (about 125 C). Also the car has a harder time dropping the heat.

I obvioulsy figured this was related to the new waterpump and thermostat as the car was running fine the day before it failed.

Yesterday I brought the car in and the bmw tech took for a test drive and immediatly noticed that car was running hotter than it should. You dont need to push the car to get above 120 simply crusing at above 4000 would do the trick.

He says he will look into it but does not think it has anything to do with the new water pump. I get a call a few hours later and the tech says he compared my temps to another 2007 and he was expriencing the same temps.

Here are the figures.

[Dynomyte]

Tech said that my car was running even cooler than the other car. I told him it should I have the additional oil cooler (AR cooler behind grill) and that the other car probably doesnt even have the BMW original oil cooler ( the one in front of the right front tyre) because those temperatures are not normal.

I pointed out to him that my oil temps are lower and i have much less oil than the other dudes car and that my water temps were higher than the other dudes car and my water pump is brand new. This indicates to me that the oil cooling parts of the car seem to be functionning, but the water cooling is probably not doing its job. Also heat inside my ecubox and hood are higher. This all points to something being up with the coolant cooling

To me there is obviously something wrong with this whole situation. I have been trying to diagnose this for the past month and have not been able to figure it out.

I really need some opinions as to what could be causing this extra heat. I need to resolve this I hate seeing these temps. At the moment I am FBO but no tune.

Thanks in advance,
Dynomyte

[Dynomyte]

There is a significant difference in Intake Air temperature, maybe this could be causing the issue, but I personnaly do not know enough about IAT for me to conclude anything.

[Dynomyte]

I checked for codes also and no new codes are present. I have a cat code thats been there for years but nothing else.

[N54_Fan]

Originally Posted by Dynomyte

I checked for codes also and no new codes are present. I have a cat code thats been there for years but nothing else.

I had experienced elevated temps as well after changing my T-stat and WP. However, at the same time I had upgraded to a 850W radiator fan and installed a Coolant temp gauge. I noted that as with the 850W fan the car got hotter the fan would NOT work and then the car would get even hotter and come close to over heating. So I switched back to the stock fan. This resolved the problem.

So what I am getting at is make sure that your fan is working correctly. It is supposed to turn on when the oil temp reaches 240F (115 C). You seem to be right at that level so maybe your fan has not turned on yet. Also realize that the oil cooler you have means that OIL temp is not reaching 240 (115C) as quickly so the fan does not need to turn on as often.

This is a bit confusing!! I was concerned that the fan was not working at all,... but it does not turn on until the OIL temp reaches the 240F. Then depending on your driving habits it will regulate the fan and WP to get the COOLANT temp to a range of as high as 108C or as low as 98C. The more aggressive you drive the lower the "target temp" The hotter the car runs the less HP and TQ you create but you also have better fuel mileage. If you run the car hard the car regulates the temps lower to around 98C to give better HP/TQ at the expense of miles per gallon. This is from BMW,...I didnt make this up!

So 1 of 2 things is happening in my opinion.
1) Either the fan does not turn on at all...test with Bav Tech tool. You could also make sure the fan comes on when the A/C is on but this does not tel you about temp trigger. I noticed I actually have to get the OIL temp to about 116-117C before it goes on.
2)Or you just have not gotten up to temp because your oil cooler is more efficient now.

I researched this for MONTHS just like you!! I have done this with the intention of successfully installing the 850W fan. (I finally did succefully install the 850W fan and now coolant temps are even lower along with my oil temps.)

The reason I think this is not reoprted much more often is because our cars do not have Coolant temp gauges so people with upgraded oil coolers have no idea what is baseline stock and what it is when the oil cooler is installed. I have a gauge that I installed and thats when I noticed this.

I hope this helps

N54_Fan

[N54_Fan]

I just realized your OIL temp WAS above 116C. In fact you were at 125C. Are you sure your OIL cooler is working correctly? Did they do something to that?

[Dynomyte]

Yeah oil temps was more than 120. Thats the problem the car reaches those temps to easily after the water pump and tstat has been changed. I am suspecting there is a clog in my radiator or something of that sort. Fan works properly though I hear it come on whenever the temps go up.

I am lost I cant figure out what the correlation is.

[Dynomyte]

Guys really need some help here, I am very concerned about this heat issue.

[N54_Fan]

Check that your system was bled properly. If not you could have pockets of air in radiator and no heat exchange going on. Easiest thing to do is bleed the system again yourself to see if that solves it. You need to do it with the battery hooked up to a charger and ignition on engine off. Something like pressing the accel 10 sec but I dont recall exactl

[Gugs]

Ignition to 2nd position on. Engine off. Temp to high on both dials. Blower to middle power hold gas pedal down 10seconds. U should hear the pump turn on. It's a 10 minute bleed cycle. Battery tender is recommended and so is Two bleed cycles.
If pump doesn't turn on keep holding gas petal and cycle ignition off and on again then wait 10 more seconds it's will initialize

[boostaholic786]

and where does it bleed too>? or does it recycle?

[Dynomyte]

I already bled it many times. I will do it twice again tomorrow and report back.

Any other suggestions?

[Dynomyte]

Why are me intake air temperature so high? dual cone?

Why is the temp inside the DME so high? Im going crazy

[Bash]

You are mixing everything together here. If your car was running fine before you did the repair then it must be something wrong with the thing you did or changed. I'm going to say thermostat you might have a defected one...might.
Troubleshoot each cooling unit in the car.