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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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AT oil cooler
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09-07-2012, 06:48 AM | #1 |
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AT oil cooler
Can anyone (vendors ?) come up with an AT cooler solution? Cant believe in over 5 years nobody has put together a kit.
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07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD E85 BMS flash - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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09-07-2012, 10:00 AM | #3 |
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Can the one from the 5 series be made to work?
We have a engine oil cooler, power steering cooler, AT cooler all standard. |
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09-07-2012, 05:24 PM | #4 |
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Bump... I want to hit the track.. without limp mode
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09-07-2012, 05:51 PM | #5 | |
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Can you post your model realoem drawing ? Found it: http://realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?mo...&fg=05&lang=en But the problem remains, you need to adapt it. A pnp kit would solve lots of headaches.
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07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD E85 BMS flash - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
Last edited by enrita; 09-07-2012 at 06:00 PM.. |
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09-09-2012, 08:08 AM | #6 |
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I have done some research and come up with:
Cooler: 1. I have the possibility to buy a second hand AR oil cooler that fits in front of the radiator Or 2. Get a trans cooler from hayden, they are pretty cheap, thin and have good flow in front of radiator , question is which size http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...yden-transaver How to connect it. I want to both lower water temps and prevent the trans overheating so i see 3 options, but i also use the car in winter with below freezing temps. 1. Completely remove the heat exchanger and route the trans oil line directly to the oil cooler . 2. Keep heat exchanger and route oil lines from it to the oil cooler and back. 3. Keep heat exchanger but route oil lines first to the cooler and than heat exchanger. I could also get a 160-180f thermostat, that would work well for winter in case of option 1. For 2-3 i am afraid water temps wont be lowered enough. Also maybe with option 1 the MT PWR water radiator can be fitted? Any input appreciated.
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07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD E85 BMS flash - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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09-09-2012, 11:22 AM | #7 | |
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So I think that would mean that it does not matter immensely where we route the tranny cooler before or after the heat exchange as long as temps do not go too low. However, if it were before heat exchanger and the tranny cooler got the temp lower than water temp then we could lower water temps as it goes to the heat exchanger but at the expense of probably re-raising the tranny fluid temp a bit. It seems to me that if we had the tranny cooler AFTER the heat exchange then the radiator/heat exchange would lower the tranny temp as much as possible and then the tranny cooler would add to that. The water cooling system I think is less of an issue because most of us going to the track also have big oil coolers and I think you also have dual oil coolers (as do I). These oil coolers do also help reduce the water temps some. I have also upgraded to the 335is 850W radiator fan and I noticed this helps water temps especially at lower speeds turns immediately after a high speed straight. My water temps are typically around 7-15 F lower with the fan even when pushing it. I plan to take it to Sebring in October so I will report how temps are after that to see if it helps much. Bottom line the tranny temps are helped SOME by the dual oil coolers and water cooling "mini- mods" like using water wetter and distilled water and bigger radiator fans but not enough. I think a tranny cooler is next on my list IF I can document that it is still an issue. You have tracked your car more than I have so far. Can you tell us have you had limp modes from tranny fluid too high on the track? Also your upgraded transmission has helped some I am sure. N54_Fan |
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09-09-2012, 11:25 AM | #8 |
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Im thinking of doing something similar , I recently had to replace one of the lines from AT to heat exchanger. By the looks of it new hoses with fittings to match oem should be possible if one could track down parts and have them fabricate new hoses in shop where they make hydraulic hoses and such.
And I would think of using high flow valves on new hoses allowing you to use heat exchanger or extra radiator . maybe use of valves that will allow for use of oem cooler plus aux cooler. If we use extra radiator and apply new sections with hoses , amount of oil needs to be compensated in regards to AT oil levels , my thoughts.
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09-09-2012, 11:37 AM | #9 |
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Also, I think in front of the radiator at the bottom is the best place or maybe in the wheel well on top of the oil cooler. We also need to figure out the size of tranny cooler to use. I have been researching the amount of heat that is dissipated by an cooler core and the size needed but have not been able to get definitive information.
If a BTU is the amount of heat to change 1 gallon of water by 1 degree F and there are 9.5 liters (~2 gallons) of ATF in our AT then this means we need 2 BTU per cycle of the ATF to run through the upgraded tranny cooler to lower the temp 1 degree. This is assuming that the tranny fluid changes temps as easily as water which I do not know if that is true. Also I do not know how quickly (in liters/min) the fluid is circulated. So figuring out the appropriate size cooler core may be more trial and error unless we have some hard numbers and facts. N54_Fan |
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09-09-2012, 11:42 AM | #10 | |
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Also, just FYI the tool needed to take the transmision cooling hoses off the system is ~$260. The hoses are not typical fittings and require a special BMW tool. This tool would need to factored in the cost of this upgrade. |
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09-09-2012, 12:00 PM | #11 |
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The cooling lines are made from metal from AT and then when exchanger is reached it connects to rubber hose that is again connected to quick coupling connector that connects to exchanger. I was thinking that in area where line goes from metal to rubber , here it should be easy to make connections/extensions and such. The big question to get answers to is what pressure is present on pressure side on lines? I understand that pumping happens in transmission , with some dual action making pressure on one line and suction on other line. Am I wrong there and its pressure all the way.
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09-09-2012, 12:03 PM | #12 |
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And I just recently replaced oil line on AT cooler ( suction ) , no need for special tool in that job. Maybe I misunderstood you, lost in translation....
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09-09-2012, 12:11 PM | #13 |
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09-09-2012, 01:21 PM | #14 |
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thanks guys.
At the track i have seen MAX 130 C Oil temps but water temps up to 116C, so oil is no issue for me but water definetely is and i am pretty sure the reason of high temps is the AT. In inpa i have seen once some codes not related to overheating and the temp reached was about 120-125C for the tranny oil. I have now changed oil when upgraded the trans with Redline D6 which should allow higher temps and less shear. Maybe having the AT cooler before the heat exchanger would be the best solution and keep the oil on a steady temp when warm , lower water temps since not that much heat has to be exctracted and help in winter as well? I am definetely getting something done next spring , just need to find the right approach. The AR cooler might be too bulky for AT , those hayden seems maybe the best option .
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07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD E85 BMS flash - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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09-09-2012, 01:35 PM | #15 | |
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Used a allen key to losen the clamp. On the heat exchanger couplings it was squeeze and pull. Wiggle and pull and they come out just fine. To remove the cooling line section I unbolted the steering rack and pushed out of the way to be able to sneak the line out. Lines are not so pricey and will practical to bring any decent hose shop that presses hydraulic hoses and such.
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09-09-2012, 01:37 PM | #16 |
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ALCON,
I have had an AR design tranny cooler for my AT for over two years now. He has a solution for what you are looking for. A long time ago, he posted a thread to see how much interest there would be in this and there was zero interest from what I remember. I am not sure if he has it on his website, but he DOES offer a complete kit. Since mine was the prototype for this, I haven't a clue what he charges. I remember thinking it was VERY reasonable for the what I got. |
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09-09-2012, 02:25 PM | #17 |
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Adam, thanks for answering my pm. i will check with Andrew AR about the solution, i have already the AR in driver wheel and can get a second hand AR in front of radiator so i might do the same as you have done. Get the PWR MT radiator and use the oil cooler in front of it as Tranny cooler.
What are your water temps now on the track? Did you completely remove the heat exchanger?
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07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD E85 BMS flash - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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