[brad bedell]

Thanks for the pics jippii ensio. I've just started digging for the right 335. Removed my 9500ci from my 996tt and my Mini Cooper, so I'll be finding it a mounting location.

I'm almost disappointed to go back with the V1, it's so chatty in town.

vp fiberglass: where have you guys mounted the display and control buttons? I was considering putting the display inside the rear view mirror this go around.

[upstatedoc]

Originally Posted by brad bedell

Thanks for the pics jippii ensio.

That's certainly not the best setup/location for jammers on an E90. If those are ZR4's they're way too low and close together. Plus they're crooked, recessed and toe'd-out. Besides that they look just fine.

jippii, have you had that set up tested with a lidar gun?

[vp fiberglass]

Originally Posted by brad bedell

Thanks for the pics jippii ensio. I've just started digging for the right 335. Removed my 9500ci from my 996tt and my Mini Cooper, so I'll be finding it a mounting location.

I'm almost disappointed to go back with the V1, it's so chatty in town.

vp fiberglass: where have you guys mounted the display and control buttons? I was considering putting the display inside the rear view mirror this go around.

I have a couple of options for display and controller locations for BMWs. I'll often integrate the display into the mirror.

This is a BEL Sti-R Plus in a 2012 M3 with Auto Dimming/Compass mirror.

And Controller in the Ashtray location:


But I've also integrated both controller and display into a new panel in the dashboard, this one in a 2011 M3:


The mirror integration is TRICKY. Disassembly of the mirror is the easy part. Modifying the Escort/Bel display to fit...that's where it gets hairy. A couple of years ago, I actually burned through a couple of displays (at about $150 each) in developing the technique. And the technique that I'll use is different for Auto Dimming vs. Auto Dimming with Compass vs. Non-auto dimming, etc..

[codyfunk]

I built a piece that replaces the ash try that houses both the buttons and display and allows the ash try cover to close; looking to sell it for like $65 shipped

[brad bedell]

Originally Posted by vp fiberglass

I have a couple of options for display and controller locations for BMWs. I'll often integrate the display into the mirror.

But I've also integrated both controller and display into a new panel in the dashboard, this one in a 2011 M3:

I like that display. nice work!

I think I'm going to pick up a euro headlight switch and mount the mute button in the rear fog light switch. The headunit control can go somewhere else. I'll probably stick it in the lid of the center console where I have to open it to make changes to the unit. I'll probably use radar-mirror since they are local to me for the display. It's expensive, but as you said. at $150 per install, the education can get expensive.


upstatedoc: I've yet to feel like the 9500ci laser bits work. On my 996 TT, I felt that they didn't work well, if at all. I think they were recessed too much. On my mini-cooper I actually got some weird looks from the officers.

[vp fiberglass]

Originally Posted by brad bedell

I like that display. nice work!

I think I'm going to pick up a euro headlight switch and mount the mute button in the rear fog light switch. The headunit control can go somewhere else. I'll probably stick it in the lid of the center console where I have to open it to make changes to the unit. I'll probably use radar-mirror since they are local to me for the display. It's expensive, but as you said. at $150 per install, the education can get expensive.


upstatedoc: I've yet to feel like the 9500ci laser bits work. On my 996 TT, I felt that they didn't work well, if at all. I think they were recessed too much. On my mini-cooper I actually got some weird looks from the officers.

You don't need to pick up a different headlight module. You can make the modifications to your existing switch. I do it all the time for the power button. If you don't have fog lights already, you can use the upper blank for your mute button and the lower blank for power and then tuck the controller away somewhere. However, it's nice to have access to the MRK button too.

[brad bedell]

Originally Posted by vp fiberglass

You don't need to pick up a different headlight module. You can make the modifications to your existing switch. I do it all the time for the power button. If you don't have fog lights already, you can use the upper blank for your mute button and the lower blank for power and then tuck the controller away somewhere. However, it's nice to have access to the MRK button too.

I have fogs. I never really used the mark button. Mostly just hit mute 3x to block out a false. I'll pop the switch apart and see what I'm getting into. Should be simple enough. Thanks for the tip!

Right now, my project is converting the interior color. Dakota Tan to gray. I'm also attempting a rear e92 console in the e90. I Gotta fab up a seat bottom, or at least modify one to fit. I think I figured it out. (I will document) Hopefully it doesn't prove to be a $500 lesson. . I'll post a new thread either way.

[upstatedoc]

Originally Posted by brad bedell

upstatedoc: I've yet to feel like the 9500ci laser bits work. On my 996 TT, I felt that they didn't work well, if at all.

The only way to see if jammers work is to have them tested against a real LIDAR gun. BMW's are hard to protect with jammers because of the lack of good mounting spots. Go here for mounting suggestions:

radardetectorforum.org

They also most likely will have members close to you that can test your set up. I test set ups in my area.

[jippii ensio]

Originally Posted by upstatedoc

That's certainly not the best setup/location for jammers on an E90. If those are ZR4's they're way too low and close together. Plus they're crooked, recessed and toe'd-out. Besides that they look just fine.

jippii, have you had that set up tested with a lidar gun?

The pic was meant for radar antenna install location only. You can ignore the ZR4 parts in it. Having jammers is illegal where I live, so the pic is not from my car.

[jippii ensio]

Originally Posted by vp fiberglass

You don't need to pick up a different headlight module. You can make the modifications to your existing switch. I do it all the time for the power button. If you don't have fog lights already, you can use the upper blank for your mute button and the lower blank for power and then tuck the controller away somewhere. However, it's nice to have access to the MRK button too.

Nice. Why is the headlight unit preferred? Is it the only feasible option? Is there any way to use the buttons on the steering wheel for example? Or use some empty (non-buttons) in the center column by placing a button there first?

[jippii ensio]

Originally Posted by brad bedell

I have fogs. I never really used the mark button. Mostly just hit mute 3x to block out a false. I'll pop the switch apart and see what I'm getting into. Should be simple enough. Thanks for the tip!

Do you mean you would disconnect the fogs, or that you would have two operations under one button? Neither sounds too good. Or do you mean something else?

[brad bedell]

Originally Posted by jippii ensio

Do you mean you would disconnect the fogs, or that you would have two operations under one button? Neither sounds too good. Or do you mean something else?

The quote unintentionally makes this out of context. However, I mean use the rear fog light location. The euro switch has a rear fog light option. (it's a blank switch)

However, I got lucky and found this a at a local salvage seller:



I've not had a chance to take it apart and see how it's wired up. But *most* of my work is done with this already.

[upstatedoc]

*anxiously awaits install pics*