[wdlfbio]

Rolled 5k miles on the new 335 Xdrive (2012) and deemed it time for the first oil change--pre computer saying so (which apparently isn't until 14k miles). In the future, I will swap the filter out every 3k, add a bit of fresh oil, and let the synthetic oil run it's full course mileage-wise.

I started by setting up the 12,000# Rhinoramps (I wanted the 12,000 model so wider tires would easily fit) and then bracing the front of them against the wall, on the second attempt. The good thing is, the Xdrive is high enough that the front lip didn't hit the ramps as they slid out under the tires. I paid about $50 shipped from Advanced Auto...

Grabbed the 17mm socket and the drain plugged loosened right up. While that was draining, I unscrewed the oiler filler cap and oil filter housing cap.

There is lots of talk about the oil filter housing cap being cranked on by Zeus, but I found mine to loosen right off with my rubber oil filter wrench.


I probably could have loosened it by hand. Big thing to watch is the green mark on the side of this cap. Make sure the two meet back up after you install the filter and screw the cap back on.


While draining, I replaced the old filter and both rubber gaskets (which come with the new filter).


I wiped the drain plug area off and screwed in the Fumoto valve. Perfect fit.


Sadly, I put in 1 quart of oil prior to pulling the drain pan out and noticing that the old brass washer/gasket wasn't in the pan. So, before reinstalling your drain plug or the new Fumoto valve, make sure the old brass washer is not stuck to your oil pan. I have a little pickset I used to pop it off. Reinstalled the Fumoto valve with the 17mm open end wrench, tightened her up, and closed the plastic cover.


Added 6.5 quarts of BMW oil and all was good in the world.

Also, there's been some talk about how to jack up the N55 so you can use the outside jack points (behind the front tires) for jack stands. About dead center and 30" aft of the front bumper, there is a jack point. There is no cover over this. Here's what it looks like.

[whoosh]

Subscribed for the Fumoto valve part #. Love these things.

Thanks for the write-up.

[wdlfbio]

You can see the part number on the bag. F109. This has no nipple and I don't think the plastic door cover would fit back on if the nipple was there.

[1QuikWS6]

So you didn't need the Fumoto ADP109 Adapter to be used with recessed drain holes?

Doesn't appear that you did - but every site reccommends that it be used with BMW - which of course would also extend the valve out from the pan further (like the nipple version) and prolly interfere with the belly panel

[wdlfbio]

No leaks what so ever. Took her out for a 65-mile road trip afterwards, including several stops and some spirited driving.

[DR-JEKL]

hey dude nice writeup I came across this whilst looking for feedback on the fumoto drain valve.

Just out of curiosity does the N54 have the same 'centre' jacking point?

[wdlfbio]

I'm pretty sure all that is the same.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

hey dude nice writeup I came across this whilst looking for feedback on the fumoto drain valve.

Just out of curiosity does the N54 have the same 'centre' jacking point?

All E9Xs have this front center jackpoint. The diff body (cast iron) is the rear center jack point. Note, do not use the aluminum diff cover as a jackpoint, only the diff body.

And to the OP, just for clarification, the little green mark on the oil filter cover is just a quality control mark applied at the factory during engine assembly as visual verification the cap was torqued to the correct specification (i.e. it will seal correctly and not leak). It is not an index marking for the threads.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

All E9Xs have this front center jackpoint. The diff body (cast iron) is the rear center jack point. Note, do not use the aluminum diff cover as a jackpoint, only the diff body.

And to the OP, just for clarification, the little green mark on the oil filter cover is just a quality control mark applied at the factory during engine assembly as visual verification the cap was torqued to the correct specification (i.e. it will seal correctly and not leak). It is not an index marking for the threads.

Thanks mate I shall have to have a squiz underneath my car next time im ready to jack it up (this will save me a heap of time instead of jacking each side up!)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by DR-JEKL

Thanks mate I shall have to have a squiz underneath my car next time im ready to jack it up (this will save me a heap of time instead of jacking each side up!)

If you look hard enough, there are several threads on how to properly lift the E9X chassis. If you search on "trolly" you'll find a good one.

[DR-JEKL]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

If you look hard enough, there are several threads on how to properly lift the E9X chassis. If you search on "trolly" you'll find a good one.

Will do the search, tbh I hadnt looked for a thread on how to lift the E9X I was looking for feedback on the fumoto valve and came across this thread

Thanks for your help though!