[Sherj]

In my long and tiring effort to fix my heated seats I happen to come across this fuse which had a weird smudge on it. I never seen this kind of fuse before so if anyone could point me in the right direction to find some that would be awesome.

[m_thompson]

They are made by Pudenz. Now part of the American company Littlefuse. The specific part number depends on the physical size of the fuse. Details are here:

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/f...ade-fuses.aspx

Your local dealer or car parts store should have them in stock.

[AndreyT]

Is there any reason not to use just any standard fuse rated for the same amperage?

[Sherj]

Originally Posted by m_thompson

They are made by Pudenz. Now part of the American company Littlefuse. The specific part number depends on the physical size of the fuse. Details are here:

http://www.littelfuse.com/products/f...ade-fuses.aspx

Your local dealer or car parts store should have them in stock.

Thanks I been looking left and right and could not find it, I guess off to the dealership .

Originally Posted by AndreyT

Is there any reason not to use just any standard fuse rated for the same amperage?

That was I first assumed but it is a a higher voltage fuse otherwise I would have popped in a regular fuse.

[N8N]

Your electrical system is still 12V I don't see a problem using a fuse out of your regular fuse kit. I can't imagine that there is an inverter/transformer setup for the seat heaters?

[alexwhittemore]

Originally Posted by N8N

Your electrical system is still 12V I don't see a problem using a fuse out of your regular fuse kit. I can't imagine that there is an inverter/transformer setup for the seat heaters?

Even if it did, it wouldn't be located in the junction box. Of course, you can be totally sure that this is all okay: go to your local radioshack and get the cheapest multimeter they sell. If it has continuity, you can check directly whether the fuse is blown. If not, put it on the current setting and test a 9V battery shorted through the meter and fuse. It won't source enough current to blow the fuse (maybe 2A tops for a fresh one), but it'll show you on the meter that the fuse isn't blown.

As for voltage, with the fuse out and the car on, test the voltage in that terminal. If it's <12V, you're probably safe. Although the best case measurement is that it's exactly the battery voltage.