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      04-16-2013, 04:05 PM   #1
bigbeemer
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Le Mans Blue, best way to maintain?

Guys, just a question how you wash your le mans blue, lambs wool mitt or microfiber mitt? not sure what to use best as le mans blue shows every little scratch I feel? been using Autoglym SRP and seems to have good filling properties with a glaze and looks good but any suggestions would be welcome, awesome colour when in the sunshine, love it.
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      04-16-2013, 04:11 PM   #2
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I use a lambs wool mitt. 2 bucket method and dried off. I use poor boys black hole and autosmart cherry glaze. Used some nattys paste wax at the weekend and was impressed with it. I give mine a going over with the da at least once a year.

Not a recent pic but you get the idea.
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      04-16-2013, 04:13 PM   #3
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Lambs wool wash mitt and 2 buckets every time.

I would recommend snow foam before you touch the paint with the mitt.

You shouldn't need to use SRP every time.
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      04-16-2013, 04:18 PM   #4
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I have started snow foaming a fair bit recently especially during the bad weather with the amount of salt n shit. It's a bit of a pita getting all the gear out but I suppose its worth it. Got a pre cleaner and got me some cotton candy snow foam last week.
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      04-16-2013, 05:11 PM   #5
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Snow foam the body.
>
Rinse
>
Then two buckets as mentioned and wash the car, because marks are inevitable, DONT wash in circular motions! Wash a panel at a time and in straight lines. When doing the roof do front to back and like-wise for the bonnet and boot lid, as for the sides up and down but do the upper half of the doors first then the lower half as there is more crap lower down.
>
Rinse every panel after you've washed it.
>
Then dry off with a light dusting of Megs Last Touch and a drying towel or two (I only use two because I cant be bothered to wring the first one out).

Thats pretty much a basic overview of when I clean mine.

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      04-16-2013, 06:13 PM   #6
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Nice.
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      04-17-2013, 01:51 AM   #7
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Thanks Brian lol, it does need a full correction Ive had the car 12months but Ive still not machined it ha ha ha
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      04-17-2013, 01:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIFCAIDS View Post
Snow foam the body.
>
Rinse
>
Then two buckets as mentioned and wash the car, because marks are inevitable, DONT wash in circular motions! Wash a panel at a time and in straight lines. When doing the roof do front to back and like-wise for the bonnet and boot lid, as for the sides up and down but do the upper half of the doors first then the lower half as there is more crap lower down.
>
Rinse every panel after you've washed it.
>
Then dry off with a light dusting of Megs Last Touch and a drying towel or two (I only use two because I cant be bothered to wring the first one out).

Thats pretty much a basic overview of when I clean mine.

Cleaning behind the number plate is just showing off
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      04-17-2013, 03:32 AM   #9
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SRP is still as good as it gets for a filler/polish to be honest, so stick with that until you've used it up - you wont need to use it each time you clean if you spend some time on locking all that good work in with a decent wax or sealant
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      04-17-2013, 04:05 AM   #10
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My top tip for those looking to 'fill' imperfections and keep them locked in..... Use a Nano super sealant like Wolfs HB, BW or Gtechniq C1, C-Quatrz etc.. They will lock in the fillers alot better than a cream sealant or wax ever could. It forms a thin glass like harden layer over the surface. Something like AF Triple, PB Black hole and Prima Amigo provide pretty decent filling capabilities.
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      04-17-2013, 05:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Singh View Post
My top tip for those looking to 'fill' imperfections and keep them locked in..... Use a Nano super sealant like Wolfs HB, BW or Gtechniq C1, C-Quatrz etc.. They will lock in the fillers alot better than a cream sealant or wax ever could. It forms a thin glass like harden layer over the surface. Something like AF Triple, PB Black hole and Prima Amigo provide pretty decent filling capabilities.
For the super sealants to chemically bond to the paintwork like they're supposed to, the surface ideally needs to be as clean as possible (hence why an IPA wipe down is recommended prior to application). I wouldn't recommend using them over filler type products.
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      04-17-2013, 05:32 AM   #12
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Some excellent tips in this thread. Cheers guys, think what I would have said has already been said.

Ideally prep (IPA, Clay bar) and machine polish the paint and from that point try your best not to be overly abrasive when cleaning so process/products like AutoBrite Purple rain > snow foam > rinse > two bucket with a lambswool and a shampoo with high lubricity > rinse > Dry with thick drying towel, drag don't rub. Add to that your protection on a 6 monthly basis? And its the world of protection products that is a mine field, I like something that's easy to apply and remove and provides a glossy finish, key to the LMB. I'm still in the process of acquiring my arsenal of products.
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      04-17-2013, 05:50 AM   #13
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I find that Le Mans blue is worse than black. Absolute mare to keep swirl free and clean. Does look the best when all polished up though imo
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      04-17-2013, 11:49 AM   #14
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Its no different than any dark coloured car to be totally honest, my previous car was black and I was always washing it which also isn't the best thing to do but I don't like to have a dirty car.

Black is horrible, i'll never own another...

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      04-17-2013, 02:14 PM   #15
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i snow foamed then rinsed then washed with the 2 bucket method dried then used meguires ultimate compound then their stage 1 paint cleaner stage 2 polish then stage 3 wax
washed the car a few days after these photos same as above only once dried used mequires quick wax spray
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      04-17-2013, 05:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMH-01 View Post
For the super sealants to chemically bond to the paintwork like they're supposed to, the surface ideally needs to be as clean as possible (hence why an IPA wipe down is recommended prior to application). I wouldn't recommend using them over filler type products.
For duration, absolutely. But from multiples of vehicles I have tested using the same method it does actually work. Of course the nano monkeys don't form a perfect bridge giving you 6 month+ hydrophobic properties though still out lasts regular wax/sealants and more importantly looks great. Unless your talking about boutique wax's in the £70+ region the picture changes somewhat in terms of durability.
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      04-18-2013, 03:51 AM   #17
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A lot of the damage can be done in the drying process therefore using nice soft towels with plenty of QD spray can help a lot. Ultimately you will always cause some damage by washing and drying but with care it should be minimal.
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      04-18-2013, 05:25 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davyk31 View Post
A lot of the damage can be done in the drying process therefore using nice soft towels with plenty of QD spray can help a lot. Ultimately you will always cause some damage by washing and drying but with care it should be minimal.
I've never used QD although I've got a couple of bottles I bought in Halfrauds last year, are you saying to spray the washed but still wet car before drying?
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      04-18-2013, 05:40 AM   #19
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Yes give a misting of QD over the wet panel and then dry, helps the drying process and gives a bit of shine too.
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      04-18-2013, 05:50 AM   #20
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Excellent, I'll give it a go this afternoon, cheers
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      04-18-2013, 10:51 AM   #21
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I used to own an LMB 3 series and vowed never to by a blue BMW again. So what do I have now? a Deep sea Blue BMW. Which is even worse.

After washing the car about three times I realised the dealer had use a polish with a good amount of filling properties. Now I need a machine finish doing.
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      04-19-2013, 03:32 AM   #22
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I use this: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...1462225&type=3 drying towel. hand down best I used. I do have an AutoGlym Aqua Dry for wheels and glass
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