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[sammk]

Greetings team.

With the weather seeming to improve I just got my snow tires/wheels off last night to get summers on.

This has happened before but the Sport Edition rims were stuck to the hub center and needed a lot of coaxing/cajoling to get out. All four sides, although the rears were a little easier.

This happens with my stock OEM rims as well but those rims have a notch on the rear face which makes things easier.

I believe the rims center on the hub, so it's sticking around the perimeter of the hub center (not so much the rotor hat). Clearly it's a matter of GD&T and both my sets of rims seem to have to be on the tighter end of the tolerance spectrum.

I take care to clean all the mating surfaces before putting them together each time. I've also tried some of the copper-ish anti-sieze, and that's not doing a whole lot of good.

Questions for the group here:
1. Do others have the same issue? If so, what's your trick to avoid the sticking?

2. If you still keep enountering the sticking, what's your trick to work the wheels off? I leave a couple bolts on each wheel, about 2-3 turns from the tightened position, jack up each side of the car and let the car drop on the wheels with a controlled impact. It can take several passes before the rim gradually works out enough to wedge it out (I take care not to cause any damage to the suspension, rims, rotor or hub when I do this).

I should have taken pics to make it more clear to peeople reading this, which I will try to do soon.

Thanks!

[AlpinWeiss]

When you change out your wheels or take them off for any reason, scrub the bore with a metal brush to remove any rust that builds up. Then put some lube on the hub so that your wheel will not be stuck on there next time when you take it off. I had this issue last year with my summers and was stuck in the cold trying to swap out wheels in front of storage. Totally sucks. Remove any rust and grease the hub and you should be alot better off.

[Snyperx]

I use anti-seize.

[Braumin]

Another vote for Anti-Seize

[foghat]

best way I've found to get stuck wheels off is to have the wheel jacked up just so it is off the ground (1/2" or so) then take a 2x4 and slide/swing it along the ground (under the car) - hitting the inside of the tire (side facing the wheel well). Give it a few knocks and rotate tire (if front tire) and repeat until it comes loose.

I will usually have another piece of wood butted up against the inside of the tire and rim so that the piece being swung is hitting the piece against the tire. Helps distribute the impact.

Make sure you still have one lug nut on loosely or wheel may get away from you.

[gtaccord]

Clean the rust off the hub/face of the rotor really well and then apply anti seize liberally.

[deadmn1337]

Whenever mine are stuck on i just give it a nice swift kick to the bottom and top of the wheel and it comes right off.

[foghat]

^ Ya. I should have prefaced my technique with: if a good kick or 2 doesn't do it, then proceed with the following.

[Pittsburger]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

I use anti-seize.

And also keep a can of pb blaster around if it still sticks.

[grafiksguy]

This happens with alloys and the cast iron hubs because of a metallurgic reaction between the different metals. Anything you can do to "separate" them will help, like coating with anti-seize. I also believe that Bav Auto sells very thin composite fiber spacers that you put between the wheel and hub which eliminates the problem. I've found spraying the back of the wheel with a silicone spray helps some. Durability of the solution depends on how much wet weather the wheels have to endure. Another solution is to paint the center of the hub. Centric rotors come this way and it all but eliminates the problem.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Snyperx

I use anti-seize.

Mine's some other brand and copper anti-seize. I didn't know about the stuff until the first time I went to changeover to my new snows--all 4 rims were stuck. With this stuff, never any problems changing over. To borrow that expression, like buttah.

[haajehaa]

Don't use copper based anti-seize where there's aluminum. Makes the aluminum corrode like crazy!

[Chris_506]

I would almost rather it to stick then to be loose. Wouldnt want to take a chance for anything to seep into the lug bolts and loosen them up either

[sammk]

Originally Posted by AlpinWeiss

When you change out your wheels or take them off for any reason, scrub the bore with a metal brush to remove any rust that builds up. Then put some lube on the hub so that your wheel will not be stuck on there next time when you take it off. I had this issue last year with my summers and was stuck in the cold trying to swap out wheels in front of storage. Totally sucks. Remove any rust and grease the hub and you should be alot better off.

Yep, I've been trying something like that. I've not touched the wheel though. Sounds like I will have to clean up both the hub and the wheel. I guess the hub center has high spots from the mild surface rust, which need to be emeried down. I think I'll cut a long strip of 600 grit cloth, wrap it around the hub, and rub it down with a to-and-fro motion.

Originally Posted by Snyperx

I use anti-seize.

Originally Posted by Braumin

Another vote for Anti-Seize

Originally Posted by gtaccord

Clean the rust off the hub/face of the rotor really well and then apply anti seize liberally.

Originally Posted by John 070

Mine's some other brand and copper anti-seize. I didn't know about the stuff until the first time I went to changeover to my new snows--all 4 rims were stuck. With this stuff, never any problems changing over. To borrow that expression, like buttah.

Originally Posted by haajehaa

Don't use copper based anti-seize where there's aluminum. Makes the aluminum corrode like crazy!

Sounds like thorough cleaning plus anti-sieze is the way to go. haajehaa: Thanks for the info about the copper-based anti-seize. I did clean off what I applied last winter. It was a pain to get it out (that stuff sticks really well) but I got most of it out. Snyperx and others: is there a specific brand/type of anti-sieze that's rated for Al wheels and iron rotors, or does the generic grey Permatex stuff work fine?

Originally Posted by foghat

best way I've found to get stuck wheels off is to have the wheel jacked up just so it is off the ground (1/2" or so) then take a 2x4 and slide/swing it along the ground (under the car) - hitting the inside of the tire (side facing the wheel well). Give it a few knocks and rotate tire (if front tire) and repeat until it comes loose.

I will usually have another piece of wood butted up against the inside of the tire and rim so that the piece being swung is hitting the piece against the tire. Helps distribute the impact.

Make sure you still have one lug nut on loosely or wheel may get away from you.

I've not tried that method to get it out. Sounds like it would be easier on the wheel and the car than what I've been doing. Since I put the car on ramps and use the center jack point to raise it, there's plenty of clearance to get under there and try it out. Thanks for the suggestion!

Originally Posted by deadmn1337

Whenever mine are stuck on i just give it a nice swift kick to the bottom and top of the wheel and it comes right off.

Nah, don't think that will work for me! My wheels are usually stuck so hard I would have to be Chuck Norris to get them off with a swift kick!

Originally Posted by Pittsburger

And also keep a can of pb blaster around if it still sticks.

Originally Posted by grafiksguy

This happens with alloys and the cast iron hubs because of a metallurgic reaction between the different metals. Anything you can do to "separate" them will help, like coating with anti-seize. I also believe that Bav Auto sells very thin composite fiber spacers that you put between the wheel and hub which eliminates the problem. I've found spraying the back of the wheel with a silicone spray helps some. Durability of the solution depends on how much wet weather the wheels have to endure. Another solution is to paint the center of the hub. Centric rotors come this way and it all but eliminates the problem.

Thanks for the info. What kind of silicone spray did you use (brand/model)? Painting the rotor (and the hub) would seem like it might work. Has anyone tried this? If so, what type of paint and how?

Originally Posted by SCSRe92

I would almost rather it to stick then to be loose. Wouldnt want to take a chance for anything to seep into the lug bolts and loosen them up either

That was kind of my thinking as well, so I've been real hesitant to put much stuff on. But I suppose as long as we're careful about where and how much, it should be ok. I think it helps that we have lug bolts instead of nuts, reduces the chances of stuff getting on the threads..


Thanks all for the helpful comments.

[VMRWheels]

You probably have a thin layer of surface rust on the hub. Just clean it thoroughly with a wire brush and the wheels should come off easier.

[Meeni]

Antiseize should be reserved for the centering hub, not the bolt plate. Cleaning with a metal brush should be enough.

[CWysong]

when I removed my stock wheels, there was a "gasket" of sorts between the hub and the wheel. It did NOT help the sticking, as I was kicking my tires like crazy. I have never seen this between the wheel before, but I did leave it there. But since it didnt help, should I remove it and just use anit sieze or some other lubricant when I swith to summer wheels this weekend?

[Eagle1oh7]

Wire brush and some anti-seize is in order.