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Downpipes install
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05-25-2013, 09:06 PM | #1 |
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Downpipes install
Is it difficult to install catless downpipes? Meaning is it hard to access the area when the car is on a lift?
I have a Cobb ap on the way will I get any errors or lights when running bms dps? Thanks for the help. |
05-25-2013, 09:33 PM | #2 |
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Easily do-able on jack stands and/or ramps, although a lift will obviously make life easier. You will throw an SES light, but with the COBB on the appropriate map (Stage 2 in your case) it will suppress the code/light from appearing.
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05-25-2013, 09:58 PM | #3 |
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if you're comfortable with cars and have worked on them before it's a pretty straight forward install as long as fitment is good on the dp's
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05-26-2013, 09:40 PM | #5 |
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If your doing it on Rhino ramps be prepared for some persistency..Its not hard but access to the area is tight...I did it myself and the gratification was great and all but I would pay someone to do them for me if I had to do it again..
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05-26-2013, 09:56 PM | #6 |
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I will pay to have done. Just not a fan if they had to remove a ton of stuff. With the Cobb do I need to run stage 2. Or can I keep it stage 1 aggressive. A Cobb and dps would be my only mods
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05-26-2013, 10:20 PM | #7 | |
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Drives: 2012 E92 AW M3 DCT
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Pretty easy job for a lift, little bit harder on jack/rhinos. I recommend grabbing some PB Blaster for the old DP bolts and cat-back bolts as well, unless your car is less than 30k miles.The hardest part, for me, were the v-band clamps on the turbos. If you cant get them to get close enough to eachother to start threading, and your sure they are completely enclosing the turbo/DP lips, then grab a pair of pliers to squeeze the two ends together (it should take next to zero force, its just leverage your giving yourself). I spent probably 3 hours trying to figure out why the clamps wouldnt go on, when in reality, they were just slightly deformed from handling them and i needed to use the pliers to pop them back into place.
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05-26-2013, 10:32 PM | #8 | |
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