[whosdady]

In the form of an introduction, I have a 2007 e92 335i sport (build date 8/06) that came without the factory oil cooler. I decided it was time to purchase an OC and decided on the ER kit and retrofit kit. My goal is to keep the oil temps a little lower than 245 degrees on spirited runs. For this reason I purchased the BMS thermostat.

Now I've looked at the BMS website and it shows two factory thermostats and explains if your factory thermostat looks like one of the two that it would work.

http://www.burgertuning.com/images/2007_low_temprature_thermostat.jpg

Unfortunately mine looks different than both of them. (There must be at least three options not two) It does look more like the one that fits but after a closer look it is different. I will post pics of mine later.

My question is, has anybody else encountered this problem? Was there a solution? It does seem like I can close the housing door but it seems to rub on the side of the housing. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

[jayzF30]

I got mine from PTF with my last oil change. No issues here, really works well for such a cheap mod

http://www.protuningfreaks.com/oil-t...s-2008-models/

[whosdady]

Originally Posted by jazze90

I got mine from PTF with my last oil change. No issues here, really works well for such a cheap mod

http://www.protuningfreaks.com/oil-t...s-2008-models/

Did your stock thermostat look like one of the ones on link above or was it different?

I'm sold on the bms thermostat. I'm just not sure if it will work with my housing and spring? I can shut the housing door but it doesn't fit like the stock thermostat that came with my retrofit kit.

[Rotorocious]

Take some pics.
Worse case you could always swap out the oil tstat housing for the newer one. I believe a new updated one is about $90 at ecs. There is a gasket you should replace behind there anyway.

11427573212

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES24061/

[123Britt]

Ok so the BMS and similar LOW TEMP device keeps the temps at 230F .

Because I have the original thermostat -- then only options are to :

a. Leave it alone -- get best ester oil to help run cooler

b. Reverse the spring / thermostat and by-pass -- Concern over 200F temps?

c. Purchase oil cooler ~ AR or others

d. Purchase new style oil filter housing that will allow for BMS Thermo
($90.00 + seal at ECS)


What do the experts say: (FOR NON-TRACK USE in HOT Alabama) ??????

[cleex024]

just do the damn thermostat bypass from youtube...its the same thing lol. you just reverse the spring

[123Britt]

Per BMS:


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I mentioned in the other thread we had tried this approach first before deciding on the bypass plug. The issue is the sizing and design of the factory thermostat itself. Yes, flipping the spring sort of works (I ran it for awhile) but there are some trade offs involved with respect to oil flow and cooling capacity. The bypass plug does a better job and does not cost much. But as always it comes down to personal needs.

Some addl info on the trade-offs with flipping the spring:

1) The factory stat is wide enough to fully cover one of the oil passages when "closed". But, when you remove the spring and push it all the way back, because it's so long, it partially blocks the other oil passage. It needs to be a couple mm shorter to allow full flow through both passages when pushed in place.

2) It has holes in it to allow oil to flow over its heat-sensitive element. But these holes also allow a percentage of oil flow to bypass the cooler all together. These holes should be blocked to improve overall cooling capacity.

3) Finally, it's pin is not the right diameter and length to lock in place. Instead the backwards spring holds it down. Which is probably fine but leaves open the possibly for it to move around as temperature and pressure fluctuate. When it comes to oil control I'd rather have it locked firmly in place.

[neilvosko]

dude, all you have to do is take take the spring and reverse places with plunger: put plunger in first then spring behind it to hold it in place

[neilvosko]

Originally Posted by cleex024

just do the damn thermostat bypass from youtube...its the same thing lol. you just reverse the spring

yep, do this!

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

Per BMS:


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I mentioned in the other thread we had tried this approach first before deciding on the bypass plug. The issue is the sizing and design of the factory thermostat itself. Yes, flipping the spring sort of works (I ran it for awhile) but there are some trade offs involved with respect to oil flow and cooling capacity. The bypass plug does a better job and does not cost much. But as always it comes down to personal needs.

Some addl info on the trade-offs with flipping the spring:

1) The factory stat is wide enough to fully cover one of the oil passages when "closed". But, when you remove the spring and push it all the way back, because it's so long, it partially blocks the other oil passage. It needs to be a couple mm shorter to allow full flow through both passages when pushed in place.

2) It has holes in it to allow oil to flow over its heat-sensitive element. But these holes also allow a percentage of oil flow to bypass the cooler all together. These holes should be blocked to improve overall cooling capacity.

3) Finally, it's pin is not the right diameter and length to lock in place. Instead the backwards spring holds it down. Which is probably fine but leaves open the possibly for it to move around as temperature and pressure fluctuate. When it comes to oil control I'd rather have it locked firmly in place.

1) it barely blocks the passage on the backside but it really doesnt matter as its not blocked enough for it to even matter. the part where the AN fitting is actually not blocked at all.

2) you are right but again the holes are so tiny most of the oil will go through the oil coolers.

3) the spring is holding it down...tell you the truth this part doesnt really even matter as even if you didnt put the spring in at all the pressure is greater on the inlet side so it will always be pushed to the outlet side.

all im saying is that i have already tried this and on the highway with 60F ambient temperature my oil temps never got above 190F and i personally thought it was a bit cool so i have to resort back to factory settings where i am at 230F.

im trying to cut my spring slightly where i can get 220F to open but pliers will not cut them...need some bolt cutters lol. damn the spring is a monster.

and also you are right about the bms one working slightly better but its so minimal that you actually might be disappointed if do it...but who knows maybe its a miracle worker.

[123Britt]

I have no issue in accomplishing the spring swap -- my point is the same as yours: Around 225F is the optimal temp (N54) I am looking for and most have found that the spring / thermo sway renders 195F on average. In most cars that would be good and even on the high side. So - after trying this out -- I too am back to the original set-up & moving on.

[cleex024]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

I have no issue in accomplishing the spring swap -- my point is the same as yours: Around 225F is the optimal temp (N54) I am looking for and most have found that the spring / thermo sway renders 195F on average. In most cars that would be good and even on the high side. So - after trying this out -- I too am back to the original set-up & moving on.

but i dont get why you would want the bms one in there then as it would be even cooler

[Bme30]

Once you find the answer whosdady please let me know. I'm in the same boat as you!

[FRMTL2_335i]

Originally Posted by Bme30

Once you find the answer whosdady please let me know. I'm in the same boat as you!

+1