[fdawg4l]

My 08 E90 335i (63k miles) has had the wastegate rattle for months now. Last week I believed it was finally loud enough to be unmistakeable even to the most obtuse service advisor and made a service appointment for tomorrow (the first available slot). However, I took the car on a track day over the weekend and since then the rattle is gone. I don't want to have to wait another few months for the rattle to reappear and wait another few weeks for an open slot at the dealer to get it looked at. Is there any way (short of doing something nefarious or otherwise illegal) to force the issue? Maybe an alternate way to identify the defect?

I'm burning a quart of oil about once a month (~1k miles), my diverter valve is puking oil on to the airbox, and I have a pretty rough idle. Among other things, I'm pretty confident the turbos need to go. Now it's all a matter of convincing the service people. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[135Pats]

That’s one of my chief frustrations with the turbo “warranty”, it only applies to a very narrow set of circumstances. Obviously that’s by design on BMW’s part, but very frustrating. My turbos are certified messed up, smoke like chimneys under vacuum…but they still boost perfect, no WG rattle or underboost codes. So there’s no realistic way I could have them replaced at the dealer.

[BoostedE90]

There has been many of posts stating that dealers won't even look into replacing the turbos unless you have a 30FF code. The code usually appears from a cracked vacuum line or if you have ever had your chargepipe pop off that code shows up pretty quickly. I am not telling you to run out and put a hole in a vacuum line or pull your CP off, but a 30FF code will help your case at the dealer.

[fdawg4l]

Originally Posted by BoostedE90

There has been many of posts stating that dealers won't even look into replacing the turbos unless you have a 30FF code. The code usually appears from a cracked vacuum line or if you have ever had your chargepipe pop off that code shows up pretty quickly. I am not telling you to run out and put a hole in a vacuum line or pull your CP off, but a 30FF code will help your case at the dealer.

Believe it or not, I got 3 or 4 of 30FFs when I pulled the codes the other day. I'm pretty sure they were the result of pulling the intercooler to get to the water pump when it was replaced a few months ago, but who's to tell. From my understanding of INPA, and please correct me if I'm wrong, there are no timecodes associated with the error; there's just a counter. I got limp mode 3 or 4 times out during my track day so it's unclear what she's really upset about.

But, thanks. That gives me hope that I may not have to do anything unusual. I'll update tomorrow with however things turn out.

[Greekone]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

That’s one of my chief frustrations with the turbo “warranty”, it only applies to a very narrow set of circumstances. Obviously that’s by design on BMW’s part, but very frustrating. My turbos are certified messed up, smoke like chimneys under vacuum…but they still boost perfect, no WG rattle or underboost codes. So there’s no realistic way I could have them replaced at the dealer.

I'm in the same boat.

[roadkillrob]

Originally Posted by fdawg4l

Believe it or not, I got 3 or 4 of 30FFs when I pulled the codes the other day. I'm pretty sure they were the result of pulling the intercooler to get to the water pump when it was replaced a few months ago, but who's to tell. From my understanding of INPA, and please correct me if I'm wrong, there are no timecodes associated with the error; there's just a counter. I got limp mode 3 or 4 times out during my track day so it's unclear what she's really upset about.

But, thanks. That gives me hope that I may not have to do anything unusual. I'll update tomorrow with however things turn out.

The 30FF isn't from changing your intercooler unless you started the car with no intercooler, it is a low boost pressure code, car has to be running to get the code. Codes also have the mileage associated with when they happened (don't think the time or date, can't remember, but definitely the odometer mileage records with the code, so you can estimate when it happened based on your current mileage.

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by roadkillrob

The 30FF isn't from changing your intercooler unless you started the car with no intercooler, it is a low boost pressure code, car has to be running to get the code. Codes also have the mileage associated with when they happened (don't think the time or date, can't remember, but definitely the odometer mileage records with the code, so you can estimate when it happened based on your current mileage.

There is a parameter that tell how many miles the car was driven with the code showing.

[BMWM.D.]

The thing everyone needs to remember is that the extended turbo warranty is an "emissions warranty". Meaning rattle due to some wear in the mechanism usually isn't a covered item. There needs to be a failure of the wastegate mechanism on the turbo (binding, 30FF, etc.) for it to truly qualify under BMW's guidelines.

Also keep in mind that BMW has a turbocharger system test that needs to be run prior to turbo replacement. It will test the system by spooling up the turbos individually to check their performance. If someone were to try a "creative" way of getting 30FF stored prior to bringing the car in for an attempted warranty replacement -- keep this in mind. If the turbos pass the system test in the shop, they likely won't get replaced.

[Dmacc]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

The thing everyone needs to remember is that the extended turbo warranty is an "emissions warranty". Meaning rattle due to some wear in the mechanism usually isn't a covered item. There needs to be a failure of the wastegate mechanism on the turbo (binding, 30FF, etc.) for it to truly qualify under BMW's guidelines.

Also keep in mind that BMW has a turbocharger system test that needs to be run prior to turbo replacement. It will test the system by spooling up the turbos individually to check their performance. If someone were to try a "creative" way of getting 30FF stored prior to bringing the car in for an attempted warranty replacement -- keep this in mind. If the turbos pass the system test in the shop, they likely won't get replaced.

But will you be charged with a diagnostic fee if under warranty? Or will it be covered even though the turbos are okay? Genuinely curious.

[fdawg4l]

As expected, they found nothing wrong with my turbos. They did pull the codes and decided to replace my vanos solenoids and are charging me to replace my vacuum lines.

Also, the pool of oil in the airbox was due to my "aftermark airfilter". They completely ignored the cake of oil on the side of the airbox from the leaky diverter valve.

[tony20009]

If your wastegate rattle, OP, is like mine, it only appeared when I first started the car cold in the morning (summer or winter). After a few miles and minutes (15 or so) of driving it went away. It wouldn't come back again unless the engine was completely cold.

I told my SA that and they gave me a loaner and kept the car overnight. The following morning they called to say it was the wastegate and that they'd take care of it under warranty.

FWIW, I'm sure they don't like fixing the wastegate thing because doing so can create other issues. I found that after they fixed mine, a couple of the seals on the turbos were compromised, which led to additional things needing to be done. I don't think the seals would have gone South but for them being meddled with during the wastegate repair. If you are concerned about this, insist the dealer test your car, post wastegate repair, by really pushing the revs and taking the car over 80 mph and flooring the gas once or twice. If the car doesn't go into limp mode, you may well be OK. If it does, it's a leaking seal that was weakened when they dealt with the turbos.

Good luck and all the best.

[fdawg4l]

Originally Posted by tony20009

If your wastegate rattle, OP, is like mine, it only appeared when I first started the car cold in the morning (summer or winter). After a few miles and minutes (15 or so) of driving it went away. It wouldn't come back again unless the engine was completely cold.

I told my SA that and they gave me a loaner and kept the car overnight. The following morning they called to say it was the wastegate and that they'd take care of it under warranty.

FWIW, I'm sure they don't like fixing the wastegate thing because doing so can create other issues. I found that after they fixed mine, a couple of the seals on the turbos were compromised, which led to additional things needing to be done. I don't think the seals would have gone South but for them being meddled with during the wastegate repair. If you are concerned about this, insist the dealer test your car, post wastegate repair, by really pushing the revs and taking the car over 80 mph and flooring the gas once or twice. If the car doesn't go into limp mode, you may well be OK. If it does, it's a leaking seal that was weakened when they dealt with the turbos.

Good luck and all the best.

Thanks man. They still have it so I'll find out more tomorrow. As is, they aren't budging much so I'm not hopeful.