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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Approaching end of warranty



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      01-11-2014, 09:19 AM   #1
spuntyb
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Approaching end of warranty

Folks,

I'm approaching the end of my warranty (almost at 50K) and have a few questions about recommended service. I know BMW has their own recommendations, but I want to know if I should include any requests I might not otherwise think of.

I got my 2011 E90 328i xdrive in August 2013 and since then have noticed a few issues, all seemingly small, and have an appointment to bring the car in for service soon (at Park Ave BMW in NJ). I have listed the following for them to look into:

1. Brake shudder at high speeds - have noticed this since day one and wasn't sure if it was my driving or an actual mechanical issue. Hasn't become worse, hasn't improved. Only at highway speeds and only the first second or two that I push the pedal. The pedal itself and the steering wheel both shudder, slightly, but noticeably.

2. Cosmetic issues - tow hook cover fell out, trunk light is completely missing, other small cosmetic items

My questions refer to the following issues, which I haven't asked the dealership about:

1. The burled walnut is scratched, or at least the clear coat covering it. It seems to scratch if I look at it wrong, which I know is a symptom of this type of trim, but I like the look and want to keep it (versus the CF, for example). I have the Novus 1, 2, and 3 polishes and have heard that these can work, but without a dedicated tool, doing it by hand can be tough and/or ineffective. I'll ask the dealership too, but any idea if they would completely replace the trim since it's still under warranty?

2. Particularly with cold starts, but even when warm, the car idles a little harshly for the first few minutes of driving. Enough sometimes that if I don't push hard on the brakes while at a stop, the whole car sort of lurches. It goes away after about a 1/2 mile of driving. I've read about walnut blasting for intake valves and wonder if this could help? What should I ask the service center to look at? I know they will look into it, but I'm wondering if I can ask them to look specifically at one thing or another.

So, in addition to what I have here, I'm curious if there are any other mechanical fixes or upgrades folks typically recommend just before 50K miles. This is my first Bimmer and want to get an idea from the collective.

Thanks!
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      01-11-2014, 09:43 AM   #2
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Brakes are either warped rotors or pad material built up. Not sure what CPO covers

Cosmetic issues of scratched trim are not warranty

Walnut blasting is for cars with direct injection. The engine in your car is not direct injection; it's probably the automatic transmission.
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      01-11-2014, 10:11 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
Brakes are either warped rotors or pad material built up. Not sure what CPO covers

Cosmetic issues of scratched trim are not warranty

Walnut blasting is for cars with direct injection. The engine in your car is not direct injection; it's probably the automatic transmission.
Thanks for the correction - I mistakenly thought the N51 was DI.
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      01-11-2014, 12:15 PM   #4
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What you describe re a lurch is exactly something I experienced once when it was chilly, but not winter, and I was pulling out of my garage. Hasn't happened since, so I forgot about it.

Your dealer should do a once over of the entire car before it leaves warranty. It is in their best interest because legitimate faults and problems mean they get paid for the work by corporate. I have the exact same car as you and my SA has said they will look it over this spring when I bring it in for rear brakes and a service.

The next question is: are you going to buy the extended warranty? Personally, I'm on the fence. Keen to hear your thoughts.
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      01-11-2014, 12:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chatoyer
What you describe re a lurch is exactly something I experienced once when it was chilly, but not winter, and I was pulling out of my garage. Hasn't happened since, so I forgot about it.

Your dealer should do a once over of the entire car before it leaves warranty. It is in their best interest because legitimate faults and problems mean they get paid for the work by corporate. I have the exact same car as you and my SA has said they will look it over this spring when I bring it in for rear brakes and a service.

The next question is: are you going to buy the extended warranty? Personally, I'm on the fence. Keen to hear your thoughts.
Yeah, I'm hoping they'll give it the once over of their own accord, but I wasn't sure if there were particular issues that sometimes get overlooked and become a problem like 5000 miles later when not under warranty any more. I haven't really read of anything like that, but I'm still learning.

I honestly didn't think the extended warranty was still an option - I assumed I would have had to opt for it when I bought the car. If I can still get it, then I absolutely will. Since I own rather than lease, I plan to baby it, own it for a number of years (possibly even until it flies back up to car heaven), and eventually sell it to another loving BMW fan.
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      01-11-2014, 05:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spuntyb
Quote:
Originally Posted by chatoyer
What you describe re a lurch is exactly something I experienced once when it was chilly, but not winter, and I was pulling out of my garage. Hasn't happened since, so I forgot about it.

Your dealer should do a once over of the entire car before it leaves warranty. It is in their best interest because legitimate faults and problems mean they get paid for the work by corporate. I have the exact same car as you and my SA has said they will look it over this spring when I bring it in for rear brakes and a service.

The next question is: are you going to buy the extended warranty? Personally, I'm on the fence. Keen to hear your thoughts.
Yeah, I'm hoping they'll give it the once over of their own accord, but I wasn't sure if there were particular issues that sometimes get overlooked and become a problem like 5000 miles later when not under warranty any more. I haven't really read of anything like that, but I'm still learning.

I honestly didn't think the extended warranty was still an option - I assumed I would have had to opt for it when I bought the car. If I can still get it, then I absolutely will. Since I own rather than lease, I plan to baby it, own it for a number of years (possibly even until it flies back up to car heaven), and eventually sell it to another loving BMW fan.
Have them look the engine over well for oil leaks. Common areas are the oil filter housing and the passenger side below the valve cover.
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      01-13-2014, 12:43 PM   #7
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Since you're under warranty just take it to the BMW and they'll fix whatever they're supposed to fix, if anything is wrong.
I also have N51 in my car, and had a bit of rough idling on cold startups, took it in, they updated the DME, much smoother after that.
That lurching with transmission you are describing, that could be the adaptive transmission issue, a simple reset may fix or at least improve it.
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      01-13-2014, 01:02 PM   #8
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When you go to the dealership be specific about what you want them to check.

Ask them to check under the hood for any gasket leaks, valve cover/oil filter housing/eccentric shaft sensor (which can look like valve cover, and is likely both ). You can do this yourself with a 30 second visual inspection of your oil filter housing and looking down the left side of your motor. If you see oil/residue you may have a leak.

Ask them specifically to check the transmission and differential for any leaking gaskets/seals, make sure they note what you ask for on the service order paperwork they give you a copy of.

I've heard that unless it's safety related and discovered when in for service/courtesy inspection, some dealerships may not do a repair though there may be an issue present.

Dealerships are typically fine as long as you specifically state what you'd like to have checked. Also, my most recent CPO service I had several of the aforementioned things dealt with, the paperwork stated there was a 2 year warranty on all work performed. Which is awesome.
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      01-17-2014, 11:50 AM   #9
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Many thanks for all the great ideas! Other than the idling issue and the brake shudder, she runs great, so it's helpful to get some input on what to have them look at.
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      01-20-2014, 03:23 PM   #10
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For anyone playing along at home, rotors and pads need replacing, which is covered under warranty, along with an alignment. Likely the biggest reason for the shutter when I brake.

In addition, all four rims are bent, which they believe is also contributing to the shudder in the steering column at highway speeds when I brake. So instead of all new ones, they are going to cold-roll them back into shape. That will still be about $600, but I guess better than paying for new rims.

As for the rough idle, they couldn't recreate it so I described it better for them and asked them to look into a possible ECU update. It was only while idling at a stop, so I'm doubting the rims/rotors could have been contributing, but who knows. That's the thing I'm most curious about because it doesn't bother me terribly and it doesn't throw any errors. Just kind of weird.

No oil leaks anywhere!

And I just learned that a trunk light is part of the optional lighting package. I thought mine had never been installed or had been taken out, but alas...guess I'll just put in some kind of closet or cabinet light myself.

Thanks for the help!
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      01-20-2014, 09:13 PM   #11
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All four rims bent? How? Holy cow!
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      01-20-2014, 10:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chatoyer View Post
All four rims bent? How? Holy cow!
Good question, especially on a CPO that's only 6 months in. I guess NYC <--> NJ driving is harder on the car than I would have thought.
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      01-20-2014, 10:38 PM   #13
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I guess so. You don't seem like the type that hoons around jumping curbs and whatnot. Makes me fear for mine. Let us know how that rim fix goes! Fingers crossed.
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      01-21-2014, 09:29 AM   #14
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Another thing for them to check on the transmission type issues would be confirm your car has the latest software loaded for the transmission.
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      01-21-2014, 09:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdgatti
Another thing for them to check on the transmission type issues would be confirm your car has the latest software loaded for the transmission.
That's exactly what I had read in another thread from a forum member with the same model living in this area. I told them to look into it, and he said not every model has the same software, multiple versions, blah, blah, blah, but the rep said they would at least check that out specifically.
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