[y2kunals]

So I've searched and checked symptoms and couldn't find anything directly about this...

I was on a long highway drive last night and my throttle seemed to suddenly stop responding. I floored it, nothing. Downshifted and floored, still nothing. Had to pull over. Stopped, and when I tried moving again, it worked fine. The same thing happened again about 30 minutes later. Got home with no problems an hour later.

This morning, started my car, and heard a loud noise. Couple seconds later, realized it was the radiator fan. It seems like it was running at full RPM. I couldn't hear the engine or the exhaust over it. Not even the VANOS ticking LOL. I went into the house and could hear it from inside too. It was that loud!

So I'm driving to work this morning. I shift into 2nd from a red light, and somewhere between 2000-3000RPM the throttle isn't opening again. It opens, but I'm probably taking about 10 seconds to get a +10km/h change in speed - it's that slow. I pull over again, and it starts working fine. 30 seconds later, again, so this time I try to pull the clutch so the RPM falls to idle, and then throw her in gear again, which works. But a few seconds later, again after 2000-3000RPM same problem. This time I turned off the cabin air and opened the window at the red light, only to hear that radiator blowing louder than you can imagine.

It seems like the fast radiator spinning and the throttle opening after a certain RPM are connected. I've thought about the HPFP but I don't know why it doesn't sound like that. Couldn't find anything on this searching through the forums either.

Any ideas? This is an E92 2007 335i Dinan Stage 2 for reference

[y2kunals]

Figured out it's in limp mode.

The oil temp gauge is reading fine, but the warning light came up in yellow and then red and lost all power.

I guess this is how limp works on a 6spd manual

Dropped to the dealer. It'll be a week before they take a look. Hoping the $$ damage isn't too crazy!

Does anyone know what this is anyways? Faulty temperature sensor or something?

[y2kunals]

:O Are you serious? Why would it tell me the temperature is too high then, when the gauge itself is reading fine?

Any idea how much that costs in parts and labor?

[deadmn1337]

costs about $400-500 in parts if you do it yourself. Otherwise i believe it is over a grand at the dealer for parts and labor.

[bryce-o]

Originally Posted by y2kunals

:O Are you serious? Why would it tell me the temperature is too high then, when the gauge itself is reading fine?

Any idea how much that costs in parts and labor?

oil temperature is different than coolant temperature. your car has an oil temperature gauge. water pump failing wouldn't show a difference on the oil temperature gauge

[Kish2604]

Ditto on the Waterpump failing....

You are lucky you didn't cook the engine by flooring it to try and get it back to normal...

[y2kunals]

That's tight.

And flooring didn't do anything anyways. I was just doing that because the car wasn't letting the throttle open after 2,500RPM. So when I floored it, I was just pushing it forward to see if it was doing anything.

I guess I'm screwed now. There goes some down payment money for the M4 lol

What are usually the causes of failed water pumps anyways?

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by y2kunals

What are usually the causes of failed water pumps anyways?

Old age. I'm planning to replace mine -- hopefully in advance of its failing -- around 75,000 miles.

Neil

[TD27]

Same thing happened to me. Turn your heat on high, if it's not hot, your water pump is finished. $900 at the local bmw mechanic (not dealership)