[ca2del]

To remove engine cover:
1) Locate 4x bolts (hex) - 2 at the front, 2 at the back.
2) The 2 bolts to the rear are obscured by a plastic host track. Remove plastic hose cover by unclipping and pulling directly forward.
3) Undo bolts and lift / pull whole cover toward the front of the car.




To remove old EGR Thermostat:
1) Undo coolant cap to release pressure. Do not attempt if engine is hot.
2) Locate 2x bolts (9mm hex) and 1x hose-clip
3) One of the bolts is obscured by a vaccum hose. This is fixed by a single bolt (star) - unscrew the bolt, and wiggle / prise gently / pull the hose from the hole. Once removed, ensure red O-Ring is intact and in-place, and then move the hose out of the way.
4) Undo 2x bolts (9mm hex) and slowly lift the thermostat. There is a yellow O-Ring which creates the seal. Check it's condition and replace if necessary (60p from BMW).
5) Locate the hose-clip and undo. Pull the thermostat to remove.
6) The EGR valve did leak a little, which means you may need to top up once it's fitted.



Fitting is the the reverse of removal. Once the new thermostat is in place, clean and dry the surrounding area, and run the engine for a moment to check for leaks.
If coolant / water has spilled onto the belt below the thermostat, there may be a squeal from the belt at first.

Dean

[txusa03]

was your bad and needed to be replace? How many miles on your car?

thanks for DIY eventho it is not a e9X...

[ca2del]

My coolant was running at around 60-75'C, even under load or high speed, meaning my DPF was never doing a regeneration cycle.

The result was that the DPF warning appeared, prompting me to take a look at a root cause.


The car is a 2007 E90, 330D - 87000mi

[txusa03]

oops. my bad about your e9x.

[ca2del]

no worries; I could have mentioned on the op.

the temp. is now around the 85'C mark, so I'm happier.

[queensfield]

Good DIY. Didn't realize that the EGR thermostat could go bad, since never had to replace one. Did you get any codes through the OBDII?

[SMILEYS 325I]

What was it doing before you replaced the thermostat? My 325i is over heating but only my radiator light goes on. And once I open the fill up cap it throws out the water

[ca2del]

Originally Posted by queensfield

Good DIY. Didn't realize that the EGR thermostat could go bad, since never had to replace one. Did you get any codes through the OBDII?

Not for the thermostat - but did have these:

41F2 - electric fan activation
480A - particulate filter system
481A - particulate filter system
4D00 - exhaust back pressure sensor

Working on the DPF and backpressure thing in a different thread :-)

Originally Posted by SMILEYS 325I

What was it doing before you replaced the thermostat? My 325i is over heating but only my radiator light goes on. And once I open the fill up cap it throws out the water

I replaced the thermostat as it the coolant was running at around 60'C on motorway runs.
The issue (I think) was that the EGR thermostat was stuck open, therefore cooling the engine earlier than it's supposed to.

Dean

[SMILEYS 325I]

Oh I see. My car was heating up and losing power. You think it was prob the thermostat? Idk where to check the temperature it's running on

[ca2del]

Originally Posted by SMILEYS 325I

Idk where to check the temperature it's running on

The temp. can be found in hidden menu 07.01

Have a look at the following post, and video, to understand what that means :-)

http://www.e90post.com/forums//showthread.php?t=548601

Be sure the engine is not running if you attempt this.

Dean

[sparkymarky]

Just changed my egr stat using this guide - in conjunction with this guide and no coolant was lost at all: http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/view...p?f=4&t=131106, except for when squeezing the rad top hose to force air out the bleed screw.

Thanks very much



ps old stat was donald ducked. Could blow through it. Symptoms are cold temp in hidden menu, sitting around 70-75, going down to the 60's on a run although up to late 80's when in traffic. Will see if the egr stat cures it or if the main one needs doing too. Hope not.

[sparkymarky]

Typical. This has partially cured the problem. The temperature was dropping into the 60's. Now it does not drop below 70 (the new egr stat is now properly closing at the expected 70 degrees thus keeping temperature up) However, the temperature only rises to 78 and drops to 75 when at high speed with lots of wind rushing in. So the main stat is also dud. A job for next week then.

[Mr Rauf]

Originally Posted by sparkymarky

Typical. This has partially cured the problem. The temperature was dropping into the 60's. Now it does not drop below 70 (the new egr stat is now properly closing at the expected 70 degrees thus keeping temperature up) However, the temperature only rises to 78 and drops to 75 when at high speed with lots of wind rushing in. So the main stat is also dud. A job for next week then.

Hi mate how did you check the temperature of your car?

[sparkymarky]

hold the mileage reset button whilst turning ignition on and continue to hold for 10 seconds. in your head, add the last five numbers together which appear. press the reset button to cycle through to menu 19, let it hover over it and it will ask you for the code. use the reset button to enter the number you got when adding up the 5 numbers. the menus will then 'unlock'.
cycle through to menu 7. This is your temperature and it will real time change

each time you turn ignition off you will have to repeat the process as it relocks itself.