[bmwsinceday1]

I just changed coolant with new, and even bled it with that plastic screw on top of expansion tank, then this instructions from a site says one must do this after:

Turn ignition ON (do not start engine), set temperature controls in vehicle interior to full warm and blower fan speed to Low. Press accelerator pedal to floor and hold down for ten seconds. Electric coolant pump will run for about 12 minutes to circulate coolant and bleed air from cooling system Once pump has run the cycle, check level of coolant in expansion tank and adjust as needed. Start and run engine at idle until it reaches operating temperature and check cooling system for leaks.

So,, I put in my :key", lights show up on dash, but where they say "set temp controls to full warm.....", I cant do it- I mena, no weay to turn knbs to get them to respond to warm setting/controls. Do I need to do this step in my 2009 328i people like the above explains, or not?

Thanks

[Efthreeoh]

From Eninty's coolant flush DIY:

Venting Procedure (to get the trapped air out of the system)

17) Insert the key into the dash slot and hit the starter button (but don’t start the engine – e.g. keep your foot off the brake/clutch).

18) When the ignition is on, set the heater to the highest temp (84 deg.) and set the fan on low.

19) Hold down the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds then release. This activates the water pump and it will cycle for about 12 minutes to vent all the trapped air into the coolant reservoir (it sounds like a mini washing machine). Don’t open the reservoir cap or bleed screw during the venting process! (you’ll have start the process over) You may want to hook up an extra battery to the under-hood jumper points to keep the car’s battery from running down.

20) Once the water pump stops after 12 minutes, open the reservoir cap (it will hiss a little) and add coolant until the measuring stick (ball indicator) is 6 mm above the top of the filler neck.

You must not be actually turning on the ignition. You need to press the start button to turn on the ignition then set the controls.

[bmwsinceday1]

Thanks, colonel!! So helpful!! Your bolded words above (17) cleared up my confusion, as I wasnt sure how to "start" without starting- (secret- dont press the clutch down).

Will try it.......

[bmwsinceday1]

OK, just tried it and found out the lights are on , and no matter what position I turn the switch (4 positions to choose) some sort of driving headlights are ON. I quickly shut off ignition. I know lights use up a lot of voltage, so how can I do this with lights off , for this procedure?

Thanks.

[Efthreeoh]

Set the head light switch to the off (center) position. Make sure your car is not set to run the DRLs, you can switch them off. Also, the lights on for 12 minutes will not kill the battery even running the water pump.

Oh, and make sure the bleed screw on the coolant tank is closed when you bleed the system.

Buy a battery tender. They're only like ~$20.

[bmwsinceday1]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Set the head light switch to the off (center) position. Make sure your car is not set to run the DRLs, you can switch them off. Also, the lights on for 12 minutes will not kill the battery even running the water pump.

Oh, and make sure the bleed screw on the coolant tank is closed when you bleed the system.

Thanks again, Ef- finally figured out how to turn off the DRL- after that, did the water pump cycle. Worked out well. Thaks!!

[#Tee]

ppl overrate the water pump draining the bat, it cycles off and on for about 12 mins. this wont do shit to the bat.

[bmwsinceday1]

Now Ive been told the coolant I used will corrode a hole in my radiator, that I HAVE to use "BMW" coolant. Geez, is that true, people? Same guy told me its cuz my rad is plastic. Huh??
Thnaks

[mbanks21]

You really should use 50/50 BMW coolant/distilled water

[bmwsinceday1]

Originally Posted by mbanks21

You really should use 50/50 BMW coolant/distilled water

OK, Banks, but why? What makes that so special? If we dont know, we need to find out. Why will my prestone result in a hole in my rad?

[mbanks21]

Originally Posted by bmwsinceday1

OK, Banks, but why? What makes that so special? If we dont know, we need to find out. Why will my prestone result in a hole in my rad?

I'm sure you'll be OK but a lot of BMW experts agree with using BMW coolant

From pelican:

I'm sure one question you're about to ask is "what type of coolant should I use?" BMW has issued a 1991 technical bulletin, 17 01 88(1743), which details problems with what is known as silicate gel precipitation in engines. This is the 'green goo' (yes, it actually says that in the BMW Tech bulletin - gotta love those German translators) that results as a consequence of an antifreeze over-concentration in the coolant, combined with hard water, and the phosphates commonly used in many antifreezes. BMW factory antifreeze has been formulated to prevent this problem of silicate drop-out without any coolant performance loss. This antifreeze contains no nitrites and no phosphates. The part number for a one gallon container is 88-88-6-900-316, and it costs about $13.00 per gallon. Although I am always eager to find alternatives to BMW factory products, I would stick with the factory coolant for now.

[Brian_TII]

Originally Posted by bmwsinceday1

OK, Banks, but why? What makes that so special? If we dont know, we need to find out. Why will my prestone result in a hole in my rad?

I'd just plan on only going 2 years on the Prestone and switch to the bmw stuff next time. Bmw stuff is quality, but so is Prestone. I wouldn't consider running anything but bmw or Prestone for any length of time.

[bmwsinceday1]

Good to know, people. Thanks. Just a tech tip (which I learned)- Prestone extended life does not contain phosphates, borates, nor silica compounds. Also, never use tap water to dilute. regular prestone does have those. But with DI water, should not be a problem .

[Greyfox]

I just bought a gallon of BMW Coolant yesterday. It's actually cheaper than the ones you can get at auto parts stores. Was $24.50 for the gallon.