[Glopez5]

Just installed raceland downpipes, at first car was fine, put it all together, went for drive got back and got the codes below. Car starts to idle then sputters, around 500rpms, then catches back up to 600 rpms, then does it again.


JB4 G4

Auto Clear turned on:
2CAA Lambdaprobe before catalyst, temperature
2C3D Lambda probe in front of catalytic converter, control failure


manually cleared them got:
2caa
2ca6

At first i thought well maybe i put the O2 sensors in backwards, but I checked and they are right Black front, gray rear. see pic:



Need help diagnosing issue. Can it be:

Loose o2 sensors?
o2 sensors in the back?
Wires got damaged with all the turning?

[Glopez5]

read somewhere that if the wires are exposed it would trip o2 sensors, didn't know that i'm going to try to pull down the wire covers over the wires

[Glopez5]

**update** replaced front o2 sensor and error codes went away, car driving nice now and has smooth idle.

odd however is the smell coming out of exhaust? smells funky or different than before.

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Glopez5

**update** replaced front o2 sensor and error codes went away, car driving nice now and has smooth idle.

odd however is the smell coming out of exhaust? smells funky or different than before.

That is the smell of HP. What do you think the Cats did?

[Glopez5]

lol thinking i might order some stronger bolts and new exhaust gaskets. I had to buy Homedepot bolts because i got it w/out hardware and re-use gasket which were in pretty good shape, but for the hell of it i'm going to order new ones since it will only take like 20 minutes to change em out.

[Glopez5]

in the case that anyone searches and find this thread useful in the future it looks like smell must have been coming from my vclams. apparently, I was able to get under my car today after a week because i've been annoyed with some rattling so just as i suspected the vclams were not tight enough, as soon as i started tightening them i realized they were actually lose even though i tighten them on first time. Also, i guess the exhaust bolts were not tight enough so i went down there and really make sure they were tight.

Also realized that the downpipes connection bracket near the rear o2 sensor was literally leaning up against my o2 sensor and i am almost 90% sure that is what was causing some of the rattling noise, i'm going to buy some bolts and nuts to tighten them down and upload some pics in the case that this will maybe help someone in the future.

[e92Driven]

Originally Posted by Glopez5

in the case that anyone searches and find this thread useful in the future it looks like smell must have been coming from my vclams. apparently, I was able to get under my car today after a week because i've been annoyed with some rattling so just as i suspected the vclams were not tight enough, as soon as i started tightening them i realized they were actually lose even though i tighten them on first time. Also, i guess the exhaust bolts were not tight enough so i went down there and really make sure they were tight.

Also realized that the downpipes connection bracket near the rear o2 sensor was literally leaning up against my o2 sensor and i am almost 90% sure that is what was causing some of the rattling noise, i'm going to buy some bolts and nuts to tighten them down and upload some pics in the case that this will maybe help someone in the future.

I'm getting ready to order new O2s and probably going to try installing them myself in the next week or so. Do you have any pointers or tips on how to reach them? Did you need to remove anything to gain better access? It looks like a real biotch to try and do without a lift.

Back story: I keep getting 2C3C code (Gray Wire o2 opposite the one you replaced), which comes back right after clearing. Car hasn't been running right for the past year and misfires under boost. Fault didn't show for o2 until I recently installed AA Full Exhaust, so I've been pulling my hair out for months trying to get rid of the misfires by replacing everything else but the damn o2s. Sensor must have finally crapped out from the new exhaust and finally gave me the code I needed to diagnose.

Anyway, I'm debating whether to buy the cheaper Bosch sensor(s) or spend the extra cash for OEM. Which brand did you use and was there anything else you had to do after replacing to get things running smoothly?

Thanks for the great thread. Any pics you have of your o2 install would be very helpful too!

[MuNkY6913]

Originally Posted by e92Driven

I'm getting ready to order new O2s and probably going to try installing them myself in the next week or so. Do you have any pointers or tips on how to reach them? Did you need to remove anything to gain better access? It looks like a real biotch to try and do without a lift.

Back story: I keep getting 2C3C code (Gray Wire o2 opposite the one you replaced), which comes back right after clearing. Car hasn't been running right for the past year and misfires under boost. Fault didn't show for o2 until I recently installed AA Full Exhaust, so I've been pulling my hair out for months trying to get rid of the misfires by replacing everything else but the damn o2s. Sensor must have finally crapped out from the new exhaust and finally gave me the code I needed to diagnose.

Anyway, I'm debating whether to buy the cheaper Bosch sensor(s) or spend the extra cash for OEM. Which brand did you use and was there anything else you had to do after replacing to get things running smoothly?

Thanks for the great thread. Any pics you have of your o2 install would be very helpful too!

Definitely go Bosch. And one of these helps loads.
Powerbuilt 648691 Oxygen Sensor Offset Puller by Powerbuilt http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00390BS7C/..._Omkeub06MS529
That helps with the one rear sensor. You can use an extension and go in between the pipes. The others can be done with a wrench.
Make sure the rear o2s are in the right pipe. Gray with gray, black with black. Just watch a couple DIY video and take your time.

[Glopez5]

Dang I'm sorry to hear that unfortunately I didn't take many pictures but best thing to do is unplug the sensor from the top its under the plastic engine cover. And it runs around the motor held on by metal clips. Super easy to do. I used an adjustable wrench to remove the ones in front of DPs.

Only tip is to losen the steering rack so you can fit your hands in the area. It was fairly easy.

Reason I recommend unplug it first is because you could damage the wire by accidentally twisting it too hard. This way I'd its not plugged in then it won't matter how much you twist cause there will be no resistance to mess up wires.