[ihbase]

Would you replace the entire engine harness or splice? If splice, how?

[GreekboyD]

I have this tool. Wicked for splicing:

[ihbase]

Greekboy: Is that a tool specifically for BMW connectors? Does the harness pictured have connectors where the two-wire harness joins the main harness? Or are you suggesting just splicing in a new section with butt connectors?

Thanks.

-Mike

[GreekboyD]

Originally Posted by ihbase

Greekboy: Is that a tool specifically for BMW connectors? Does the harness pictured have connectors where the two-wire harness joins the main harness? Or are you suggesting just splicing in a new section with butt connectors?

Thanks.

-Mike

Not sure how the harness is connected but yes I was suggesting splicing in a new connection with connectors, assuming no issues would arise. No, this tool is not a BMW tool.

These are the connectors used by the tool above:

Link

[Yozh]

I wish rodents would try chewing the HV Xenon ballast wires during the warm-up stage. 23kV, lovely.

[BB_cuda]

I can't tell from your picture if a wire is chewed or if a connector is chewed up. If it is a wire(s) at a mid span, I would just slice in a replacement of wire where you slide heat shrink up one side or the other but far enough away from area that is going to get hot. Strip wire back on parent wire and same for splice in wire. Wind the stripped wire over each other where the wire becomes one continuous straight section (not like you would twist wire together for installing a wire nut). Solder this junction together. Clean with alcohol and acid brush. Slide heat shrink over and heat to seal up the junction. Do exact same thing on opposite end of splice in wire. I'm assuming you're replacing like a 4" section or something. Put black corrugated tubing over area with black zip ties. It should pretty much match the OEM harness around it now. I've repaired engine harness before on other makes. No big deal. I should have said disconnect battery before starting this repair :-).

Perhaps draw a red circle around damaged area so I can distinguish.

I've made wiring harnesses for car stereo: head unit to amplifier to existing OEM car speaker wiring. It just takes patience. The best heat shrink is glue lined to seal out water (black heat shrink with glue liner). EPO sells it in my local area. Never have bought it on internet

[ihbase]

BB: Thanks for the input. I agree for the most part. I have repaired large burned sections of a massive machine harness before (30-40 wires) but this repair concerns me because I do not know what the two wires do (they appear to go into the back of the HPFP- the CEL is on but the car runs fine) and whether or not any change in resistance will mess with the car. And some commentary on harness repair suggests that in an environment where vibration may be an issue, crimping and shrink tube is better than solder.

The problem is complicated because the rodent(s) ate the wire back close to the main harness, and to get in there one will need to either pull the intake manifold for access or pull the front section of the harness out (the damaged wire is in between the oil filter housing and the head) but I have no idea what is involved in pulling the front section of the harness.

Insurance co has stepped up and offered to replace entire harness.

If you look at the second photo, the white wire was gnawed back to about an inch from the junction with the main harness- not a lot of room to work with.

I wish I knew how BMW joined the branch lines of the harness to the main section. If it is a connector, it would be relatively simple to open it up and install a new branch line.

Dealer is still working on identifying the harness part number.

I'll look around for the glue-lined heat shrink you mentioned.


Thanks.

-Mike