[critical05]

So i finally got the motivation to take the restrictor out of the clutch delay valve. I did some reading up to prepare myself. I hadn't done this earlier because others have had issues bleeding the clutch, and the reduced space with an e92xi. I got the driveshaft out of the way and reverse bled the clutch.

These were the steps:

1. Jack up the car and put up jack stands. I just lifted the drivers front side, to get enough height, the back wheel lifted as well.

2. Remove the underbelly pan using a 8mm socket

3. Used a prybar to hold the front driveshaft from rotating, remove the 4 torex bolts on the tranny side. I took a hammer and tapped it to break the rust bond. Now you can rotate the driveshaft out of the way. (CDV-Green, Bleed Nipple-Red)


4. Took a c-clamp and used some cardboard to protect the line and clamp the line closed near the cdv.

5. Remove the two metal clips using a small screwdriver.

6. Pull the lines out and remove the cdv. Get a small allen wrench, put the cdv on the ground big side down. Put the allen wrench in the small end and tap with a hammer. A small rubber insert and a 4 prong metal clip should fall out.

7. Reinstall cdv, put metal clips back on.

8. Remove the c-clamp.

9. Bleed clutch
A. Get a 60cc syringe or an oil squirt can.
B. Get some 3/8" clear tubing, about 18". Put the tubing on the syringe. I had to use some electrical tape and some smaller diameter tubing to get the syringe and 3/8" tube to fit well and get a good seal.

C. Fill the syringe up with brake fluid, try to get all the air out. If you have a small wood clamp, clamp the hose shut to prevent fluid loss. Makes it cleaner.
D. Get a 11 mm ratchet wrench, mine had a lever to switch from loosing and tightening. Otherwise you will have to use the open ended side and it will take forever to loosen the plastic bleed nipple.
E. Open the cap on the brake resivoir, may need to take some out if its too full, place a rag around the opening, just in case.
F. Use a screwdriver to pop the rubber boot of of the bleeder. Put the wrench on the bleeder, put the syringe hose on the nipple. Loosen the bleeder, once you see fluid flowing from the bleeder, hold the hose on the nipple as it could come off, and push the syringe plunger. This will naturally force the air up into the resivoir. You will hear some burping. I did about 40cc.
G. Tighten the bleed nipple, remove the hose.

10. Clean up your mess and put everything back together. I didn't have torque values for the driveshaft so i tightened it to where i thought was adequate.

I got the idea about reverse bleeding using a syringe from a youtube video posted on another thread about bleeding a bmw clutch. The logic is that air wants to travel up and when you pump the clutch, you only move a very small amount of fluid. Due to this, pumping the clutch method may not be adequate.

I bled the clutch twice because i thought something was wrong because the clutch pedal was so much easier to depress. Removing the restriction (orifice) in the cdv must be the reason for the softer clutch pedal. I was very cautious when i started the car just because of the soft pedal, incase the clutch didn't disengage.

I didn't notice a huge difference between shifts, maybe i just got used to the cdv being there. The biggest difference is the effort required to depress the clutch. There were a few time i thought id get a leg cramp in traffic due to the clutch.

edit: Brake fluid will strip paint and is bad for you. You can absorb it through your skin. You should wear latex or nitrile gloves. Be careful that your not accidently touching your paint with anything that has brake fluid on them, ie. your hands. You can put a rag over your driveshaft so no fluid drips down onto it. With the line clamped, you get more fluid from the CDV than the line itself.

[Sidewinderpb]

Nice write up! If you think that the BMW clutch is stiff, try a WRX!

Coming from a WRX, I thought the 335i clutch was insanely buttery.

[e90Mark]

Originally Posted by critical05

I didn't notice a huge difference between shifts, maybe i just got used to the cdv being there. The biggest difference is the effort required to depress the clutch. There were a few time i thought id get a leg cramp in traffic due to the clutch.

Thanks for the write up. I believe you'll see the biggest difference in WOT shifts.

I get annoyed with that second delay of the clutch engaging between WOT shifts .

[ccraig13]

For me, the biggest difference was 1st and 2nd. After the delete everything was much smoother

[Sidewinderpb]

Originally Posted by ccraig13

For me, the biggest difference was 1st and 2nd. After the delete everything was much smoother

+1 same here; just did mine yesterday. Putting a CDV on the car was a dick move on BMW's part.

[critical05]

Okay, its been about 3 weeks since I had driven my car due to weather and vacation. Since its been so long, I will now say that it does make a big difference and the clutch is more linear and shifts are crisper. Just get in and drive, no more compensating for the CDV.

[Bideul]

Hello,

I want to do exactly the same, but I prefer to have the torque values for the driveshaft.

Anyone have these values ?
Thx

[ucdbiendog]

is it really necessary to remove the drive shaft? I put mine in without doing so. I was able to bleed it by pumping the clutch, so i didnt need to access the bleeder nipple. i was also very carfeul about pinching the lines close to the cdv so that minimal air was introduced. YMMV

[4lss]

I think if you are careful enough you don't have to bleed the clutch. I replaced mine and bleeding was not needed.

[Bideul]

Finally, I've got a Service Repair Workshop Manual on a DVD from ebay.
It mentions a 20Nm torque & 45° angle for the M8 bolts of the front shaft.

I have to get a new torque wrench now (mine starts at 28 Nm)

[andrey_gta]

Originally Posted by djfellipe

I think if you are careful enough you don't have to bleed the clutch. I replaced mine and bleeding was not needed.

+1 If you do it quick and smooth, its all good