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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Help designing system for 2014 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
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12-25-2014, 03:54 PM | #1 |
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Help designing system for 2014 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
Hey guys,
I know this is not BMW related but I have had no luck on any other forums. I know for a fact there are some audio guru's here so hopefully they can lend a hand. I have been reviewing different combinations for a while now and figured it would be best to ask instead of banging my head in since audio was never in my "to do" list. Vehicle: 2014 silverado 1500 Crew Cab (non bose w/ 8" screen) What I have: - SAZ-1200D - (2) ID 10 v3's - LC2i - enclosure The easy part is covered but now I have been non stop researching speakers to upgrade. I have never actually changed my mids/highs because BMW had logic 7 and it sounded great! I am stuck between coaxial and component because the dash speakers look like hell to get anything to fit. Here's what I have in mind. Feel free to comment. - Pioneer TS-D1602R for front and rear - Precision Power PPI 900.4 - LC6i I am not not trying to go all out on this but I definitely need some sort of an upgrade. Really open to all opinions at this point. Dash speakers appear like they will have to stay as is. Should I go coaxial front AND rear? Anyone have experience with these speakers? Etc. I am aiming towards a budget friendly Build but I am flexible to a certain extent. Thank you |
12-26-2014, 05:45 AM | #2 |
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diymobile:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...r-console.html They might give you better insight on your particular vehicle. |
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12-26-2014, 03:51 PM | #3 |
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i'd go with micro-precision 3-series components
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12-29-2014, 06:57 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
1. Do i splice into the appropriate cables behind HU (Pre Amp) to get Signals and then run them to LCQ-1? 2. If so, am I just leaving the factory amp in place and just bypassing it? 3. Since i am running new speaker wire, what do I do with the OEM speaker wires/clips at the door? Do i leave them hanging there? That's what I need answered to proceed. Thank you in advance! |
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12-29-2014, 06:58 PM | #5 |
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12-29-2014, 08:14 PM | #6 | |
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1. if you're using pre-amp, then there's really no need for an LCQ-1.
2. I'd remove the factory amp and make the connections for the new amp at the harness for the factory amp. I would add RCA ends to the pre-amp side of the factory amp input and then you have your pre-amp signal to feed your new amp. i would then splice into the factory amp's speaker outputs and connect them to the outputs of the new amp. if you plan on running completely new speaker wires, then you don't need to use the outputs from the factory amp's harness. also, depending on where you mount the new amp and the location of the factory amp, you could just do what i said with adding RCA ends to the pre-amp signal wires from behind the radio instead of at the amp. 3. there's probably going to be speaker wires for the factory door speakers in the kick panels. you could tap those by cutting them and running your speaker wires to them. this way you don't have to worry about feeding new wire into the door through the rubber boot. i would then make or buy a proper adapter plate to mount the new speakers to the factory speaker locations. i'd then tap the factory speaker connector plug by splicing into it and then wiring up the new speaker. this way you still have the plug there if you decide to put it back to stock at some point. then just tape it all up so it looks neat. Quote:
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iPhone 6 Plus (iTunes library/iTunes radio/Waze, etc) to Airport Express via AirPlay. Toslink out of Airport Express to Helix P-Six DSP. PHD AF 1.C tweeters, PHD FB 4.1 midranges. Jehnert Door Cards and mid-bass'.
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