[ashmostro]

Quick response before a more lengthy one appropriate for your post - the ST rear BBK does indeed have parking brake provision! Stoptech does a crappy job of not making that obvious, and Racingbrake makes it sound like they're the only shop that does this. BS. What makes RB's rear rotor setup more special in the parking brake department is the iron liner- that's it. If you're not a drifter and regularly using the e-brake at speed, the stoptech BBK e brake provision (Aluminum only) works just fine!

PS, you're insane

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Quick response before a more lengthy one appropriate for your post - the ST rear BBK does indeed have parking brake provision! Stoptech does a crappy job of not making that obvious, and Racingbrake makes it sound like they're the only shop that does this. BS. What makes RB's rear rotor setup more special in the parking brake department is the iron liner- that's it. If you're not a drifter and regularly using the e-brake at speed, the stoptech BBK e brake provision (Aluminum only) works just fine!

PS, you're insane

Knew the ST BBK rear hat could be had with the correct ID for my e-brake (160mm) although they didn't when I bought the car (I pinged 'em about it) but technically it won't pass inspection as around here they apply it, put the car in gear, and apply gas - the car can't move. Might work for a while, dunno, but the car chief who works on my car (and they use ST) recommended against it.

I use the e-brake every time I park even though I have a 6MT. The RB rear rotor would have solved the problem and I did consider it in conjunction with a 135i rear caliper but it requires the OE pads be trimmed on the ID and that didn't sound like a good deal although I might end up there since I can get a set of 135i calipers for a song. Doesn't really help with the cost of the RB rotors though, yow.

Hmmm, just occurred to me that Carbotech will make any pad so maybe this is really an option. Gonna have to ping 'em now the RB spec. If so I think I'll change over to RB rotors and 135i rear calipers. Ya know, cuz why not. Surely there's a twelve step program _somewhere_ for this pitiable adiction?

Only insane? You're too kind.

[ashmostro]

Ahahaha I think I now have fallen into the role of enabler! :P

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by justpete

Knew the ST BBK rear hat could be had with the correct ID for my e-brake (160mm) although they didn't when I bought the car (I pinged 'em about it) but technically it won't pass inspection as around here they apply it, put the car in gear, and apply gas - the car can't move. Might work for a while, dunno, but the car chief who works on my car (and they use ST) recommended against it.

I use the e-brake every time I park even though I have a 6MT. The RB rear rotor would have solved the problem and I did consider it in conjunction with a 135i rear caliper but it requires the OE pads be trimmed on the ID and that didn't sound like a good deal although I might end up there since I can get a set of 135i calipers for a song. Doesn't really help with the cost of the RB rotors though, yow.

Hmmm, just occurred to me that Carbotech will make any pad so maybe this is really an option. Gonna have to ping 'em now the RB spec. If so I think I'll change over to RB rotors and 135i rear calipers. Ya know, cuz why not. Surely there's a twelve step program _somewhere_ for this pitiable adiction?

Only insane? You're too kind.

BTW, hate to be the bearer of bad news but Carbotech's pad compound HATES the metallurgy of RB's rotors. Lots of guys have reported pad smear with this combo and I think RB expressly recommends against CT pads now for this reason.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

BTW, hate to be the bearer of bad news but Carbotech's pad compound HATES the metallurgy of RB's rotors. Lots of guys have reported pad smear with this combo and I think RB expressly recommends against CT pads now for this reason.

Huh, well that sucks. I wonder if they were using pre-bedded pads. Makes a difference.

[ashmostro]

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/pa...g.asp?full=yes

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/pa...g.asp?full=yes

Yep, just found that searching, thanks. And it would appear I misunderstood the forums there as well. Apparently there isn't a two-piece rotor available with the correct offset and the correct e-brake drum ID. The 135i rear rotor would work for the offset but not the drum ID. Modifying the e-brake shoes is an option but I think for now I'll just skip the whole mess since what's on the car is working. Thanks for the heads up.

[ashmostro]

You bet buddy

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Here are the big parts I used for the upgraded oil cooler fittings install - note this is before I switched to proper braided lines and fittings and was still using push-loc hose which is fine in a pinch but lacks the longevity desired in a DD.

thermostat: http://www.improvedracing.com/thermo...15f-p-434.html

thermo delete plate: http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbocdelete
[/img]

Forgot to say I got these on order earlier today, thanks for the links.

[ashmostro]

Awesome. FYI the delete plate doesn't come with the OEM gasket so you need to buy that separately if you didn't already purchase with the N54 oil cooler housing.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Awesome. FYI the delete plate doesn't come with the OEM gasket so you need to buy that separately if you didn't already purchase with the N54 oil cooler housing.

No worries, the shop will provide the N54 oil filter cover along with whatever's necessary to install it. Not the cheapest way to go but guaranteed to be done factory correct. And a solid warranty on the work. BTW, they don't use oil cooler thermostats on the racecars, something that hadn't occurred to me.

[ashmostro]

yeah i figured they didn't. but since you daily, I recommend at least the 185 degree unit. I use the 215 given our colder weather and bc I do short trips often.

The IR unit flows WAY more than a Mocal. I wouldn't be worried about it impeding flow rate at all on the track.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

yeah i figured they didn't. but since you daily, I recommend at least the 185 degree unit. I use the 215 given our colder weather and bc I do short trips often.

The IR unit flows WAY more than a Mocal. I wouldn't be worried about it impeding flow rate at all on the track.

I went with the 215C unit as I do a lot of short hop drives and I really don't want the oil getting cooled before it has a chance to devolve water.

The design of the IR part is purty spiffy and like you I like the way that there's nothing in the cooler flow path to cause a single point failure to cool. Worst case is a single point failure makes it always cool so it's inherently safe. If only coolant thermostats were so cleverly designed.

[ashmostro]

Originally Posted by justpete

I went with the 215C unit as I do a lot of short hop drives and I really don't want the oil getting cooled before it has a chance to devolve water.

The design of the IR part is purty spiffy and like you I like the way that there's nothing in the cooler flow path to cause a single point failure to cool. Worst case is a single point failure makes it always cool so it's inherently safe. If only coolant thermostats were so cleverly designed.

I think you made the right choice. Even with my 215 unit my car takes longer to warm up than it used to so it's definitely flowing a LOT. You can also buy the innards for a 185 degree model and swap them out in the summer if need be.

It really is a smart design. Note that it is directional in nature which means you need to know what the OEM oil flow path is out of the thermostat delete plate. When installed, the DRIVER'S side port on the plate is the outlet (hot from engine), and passenger is the inlet (cooled from ext cooler). Just to save you the time of looking it up

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

I think you made the right choice. Even with my 215 unit my car takes longer to warm up than it used to so it's definitely flowing a LOT. You can also buy the innards for a 185 degree model and swap them out in the summer if need be.

It really is a smart design. Note that it is directional in nature which means you need to know what the OEM oil flow path is out of the thermostat delete plate. When installed, the DRIVER'S side port on the plate is the outlet (hot from engine), and passenger is the inlet (cooled from ext cooler). Just to save you the time of looking it up

Didn't connect with the split body design making it possible to easily change the thermostat core in addition to easily replacing. Duh.

Where did you end up mounting yours?

Thanks for the tip on which is which.

[ashmostro]

Pic on prior page - link to post: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=30

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

Pic on prior page - link to post: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=30

Oh! There it is. So it has cloaking properties as well, nice. They didn't mention that on their site. Seen my glasses? I left 'em around here somewhere...

[ashmostro]

hahaha

It's all the solid bushings buzzing your eyesight away...

[justpete]

Originally Posted by ashmostro

hahaha

It's all the solid bushings buzzing your eyesight away...

Yeah, wouldn't surprise me.