[westchester335i]

I have a ER or CPE CP I forget which one but it has the tial BOV on it. When I rev the car in N and the RPM return to normal the BOV makes a very squeak noise. It's also not loud anymore as it used to be . Sometimes I get a boost leak code 30FF but car still pulls good, I am thinking the BOV might be leaking. It is old and has been on a few cars.

I want to use the HKS BOV.

I came across this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flange-adapt...-/380474134252

I also found the HKS BOV for cheap and it claims to be authentic.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-2014-SIL...80cb4a&vxp=mtr

Will those two items work? Also does the BOV come with everything I need to install?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

OK so there is no way an authentic HKS BOV can be sold for $140 because wholesale is over $200. It's the typical chinese knock off. You can google how to tell what a genuine HKS BOV looks like.

Second, the BOV is not supposed to be loud while revving in neutral.

Why not just buy a new Tial BOV, for the amount of money you would spend on the flange and fake hks BOV, you could nearly get a brand new Tial and not have to worry about more potential leaks with adapter flanges or other problems that can incur from a knock off BOV that doesn't function properly.

[TheYuriPanda]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

OK so there is no way an authentic HKS BOV can be sold for $140 because wholesale is over $200. It's the typical chinese knock off. You can google how to tell what a genuine HKS BOV looks like.

Second, the BOV is not supposed to be loud while revving in neutral.

Why not just buy a new Tial BOV, for the amount of money you would spend on the flange and fake hks BOV, you could nearly get a brand new Tial and not have to worry about more potential leaks with adapter flanges or other problems that can incur from a knock off BOV that doesn't function properly.

+1
Personally i like my Tial. not obnoxious like Subarus and Evos with them. Nothing wrong with hks just personal.

[The1ontop]

Yeah stay away from the. Cheap "hks" stuff get a tial or synapses imo

[Seven11]

thats a fake one

[SINGH_]

that adapter wont work, it'll ony work if you're going from a hks charge pipe to a tial bov. not vice versa

[m_fife]

Originally Posted by N54B30

that adapter wont work, it'll ony work if you're going from a hks charge pipe to a tial bov. not vice versa

Correct. HKS SSQV sits in a groove with a snap-ring on top to hold it in place.

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

We have been chasing down a boost leak on a customer car for almost 3 days, this morning we finally pulled the HKS Charge pipe and BOV, and put a CPe we had at the shop and a Tial. Boost leak fixed, the only BOV I would use is the Tial. high quality, no issues. Just use the black spring, and a dedicated reference line. If you use the suggested spring, and Tee off the manifold signal, you will NOT get a full vent.

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Tony@vargasturbotech

We have been chasing down a boost leak on a customer car for almost 3 days, this morning we finally pulled the HKS Charge pipe and BOV, and put a CPe we had at the shop and a Tial. Boost leak fixed, the only BOV I would use is the Tial. high quality, no issues. Just use the black spring, and a dedicated reference line. If you use the suggested spring, and Tee off the manifold signal, you will NOT get a full vent.

So the 11psi/vac (I think) spring that they ship them with (vendors on here) isn't the correct spring on modified stock frames? Or stockers in general?

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

So the 11psi/vac (I think) spring that they ship them with (vendors on here) isn't the correct spring on modified stock frames? Or stockers in general?

Turbo size isn't really factor, just run the black spring or white at the minimum. The black is the 8 and the white is the 11

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Tony@vargasturbotech

Turbo size isn't really factor, just run the black spring or white at the minimum. The black is the 8 and the white is the 11

Would this also help the low boost flutter/compressor surge that occurs with mine, and quite a few other people's setups?

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

Would this also help the low boost flutter/compressor surge that occurs with mine, and quite a few other people's setups?

Exactly, this will fix it. With the stronger spring you cant get a full vent during those times. We always recommend the black spring, and as dedicated line from the manifold.

[335NJ]

Originally Posted by Tony@vargasturbotech

Exactly, this will fix it. With the stronger spring you cant get a full vent during those times. We always recommend the black spring, and as dedicated line from the manifold.

I drilled and tapped a brass vacuum fitting into where the flimsy plastic nipple was on the manifold, and have a designated line directly into the BOV so I know I have solid connection, but the low boost flutter has always irritated me, I purposely try not to let off the gas at low boost to avoid this happening.

I may purchase a lighter spring now and see if that helps. Thanks Tony

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

I drilled and tapped a brass vacuum fitting into where the flimsy plastic nipple was on the manifold, and have a designated line directly into the BOV so I know I have solid connection, but the low boost flutter has always irritated me, I purposely try not to let off the gas at low boost to avoid this happening.

I may purchase a lighter spring now and see if that helps. Thanks Tony

Sounds like your reference is solid, this WILL fix your flutter, which is actually light compressor surge.

[max_k20]

Personnaly I only have fluttering issue with the tial BOV on lazy shift (low rpm, quick shift) and not all the time. 99% of the time I get a full vent and I do have a T in my vacuum source for a boost gauge. No issue yet in about 5000km and in very cold temperature (went to -30 celsius no issue)

[Tony@vargasturbotech]

Originally Posted by max_k20

Personnaly I only have fluttering issue with the tial BOV on lazy shift (low rpm, quick shift) and not all the time. 99% of the time I get a full vent and I do have a T in my vacuum source for a boost gauge. No issue yet in about 5000km and in very cold temperature (went to -30 celsius no issue)

If you get any flutter at all you are not getting a full vent, also when you use the correct spring and dedicated line, you easily hear the difference in the amount of air vented vs a higher spring and teed line.

[max_k20]

Originally Posted by Tony@vargasturbotech

If you get any flutter at all you are not getting a full vent, also when you use the correct spring and dedicated line, you easily hear the difference in the amount of air vented vs a higher spring and teed line.

As I said flutter only 1% of the time approx. As of now no issue at all with the correct line and teed line (with a very small nylon hose for the boost gauge). If issue happens will dedicate a line for it.