Oil pan drain threads stripped and stuck inside oil pan

Rockyca · 02-18-2015, 08:52 AM

Does anyone know of a reputable shop that would be able to remove the bolt, repair the threads and reinstall a new bolt? I am coming up on my OCI and need to get this done fairly soon. It is not really leaking, but it prevents me from doing an oil change.

Previous owner left the bolt on its last legs. When I used my torque wrench on the previous oil change, the bolt would not tighten up, it just keeps spinning.

paintballdude05 · 02-18-2015, 12:21 PM

A 300M that I had had a stripped pan bolt (in aluminium). I bought an oversized drain plug, threaded it in slowly and that fixed the issue. Canadian Tire had them but I had to get the parts guy to pull out their kit with an assortment drain plugs to find it. The parts guy looked at me like I had 2 heads when I asked him about the oversized drain plugs.

Most competent shops should be able to do something like this if you don't trust yourself. It's pretty easy to do though. Just make sure you line up the threads and slowly drive it in. Once the plug goes in, run a bit of oil through the pan with the plug out to remove any fillings.

Tzu · 02-19-2015, 07:38 AM

I'm guessing you stripped the pan and not the bolt, since the pan is aluminum. Cheapest way is like paintballdude said, but be weary of getting shavings into the pan. I'd remove the pan if I were do that personally.

paintballdude05 · 02-19-2015, 07:44 AM

You could add grease to the threads of the new plug as you thread it in. That way most of the fillings would get trapped by that. You could then wipe the threads to remove the grease/ filings left over. On top of that, you could spray it out with brake clean then poor in a quart of oil or so to flush it out afterwards, there shouldn't really be anything left. If you do get a bit of fillings left over I wouldn't worry about it too much though. All the oil is filtered anyways so it would get caught before doing any damage to the engine.

Douche · 02-19-2015, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paintballdude05

You could add grease to the threads of the new plug as you thread it in. That way most of the fillings would get trapped by that. You could then wipe the threads to remove the grease/ filings left over. On top of that, you could spray it out with brake clean then poor in a quart of oil or so to flush it out afterwards, there shouldn't really be anything left. If you do get a bit of fillings left over I wouldn't worry about it too much though. All the oil is filtered anyways so it would get caught before doing any damage to the engine.

The idea of pouring oil to drain is good.

However, the idea that contaminated oil will not damage is not true. Not all oil is filtered (some of it pass through the bypass valve when pressure is too high) and it could damage the engine on the first loop it does through the system.

paintballdude05 · 02-19-2015, 08:58 AM

True enough, however with a new filter and fresh oil the chances of going through the bypass is fairly slim I would think. Who knows though.

I'm sure a shop doing the work won't go through all the steps I listed to do the same job. The real fix for this would be to install a new pan with good threads.

Tzu · 02-20-2015, 07:42 AM

You're tapping the sump, and oil is only filtered prior to going into the sump. ie. any filings in the sump is also in the same cavity as the oil pickup and rod bearings. Do what you will with your car but I wouldn't do it personally on mine.

David0ff · 02-20-2015, 11:17 AM

I had this happen to me.
Took the car to the dealer for a inspection before coming out of warranty and oil change, then the next time i did it myself they damn bolt stripped on the way out !
It took me 5 damn hours to extract the mafak and 5 mins to retread the oil pan hole.

paintballdude05 · 02-20-2015, 01:26 PM

If there was anything left, it would go through the oil pickup, then pump and then into the filter. Yes the connecting rods and crank might come into contact with the possible shaving, but it should damage anything because all the bearings are already under engine oil pressure.

If you just go with an oversized plug, fillings will be minimal since you're not cutting a huge around of material here. It's not like you're tapping a completely new hole.

grzes · 02-20-2015, 02:25 PM

wouldn't be just safer to get a new oil pan? More expensive but then you know all should be good. What ever you do fix it fast and do not drive it till you do so or you will end up with something like this (picture) and big expensive bill to pay for your new engine

02-18-2015, 08:52 AM	#1
Rockyca First Lieutenant 34 Rep 356 Posts Drives: 2016 340i M-Sport Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Toronto iTrader: (1)	Oil pan drain threads stripped and stuck inside oil pan Does anyone know of a reputable shop that would be able to remove the bolt, repair the threads and reinstall a new bolt? I am coming up on my OCI and need to get this done fairly soon. It is not really leaking, but it prevents me from doing an oil change. Previous owner left the bolt on its last legs. When I used my torque wrench on the previous oil change, the bolt would not tighten up, it just keeps spinning.
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02-18-2015, 12:21 PM	#2
paintballdude05 Second Lieutenant 23 Rep 202 Posts Drives: 2011 e92 335xi Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Sudbury, Ontario iTrader: (0)	A 300M that I had had a stripped pan bolt (in aluminium). I bought an oversized drain plug, threaded it in slowly and that fixed the issue. Canadian Tire had them but I had to get the parts guy to pull out their kit with an assortment drain plugs to find it. The parts guy looked at me like I had 2 heads when I asked him about the oversized drain plugs. Most competent shops should be able to do something like this if you don't trust yourself. It's pretty easy to do though. Just make sure you line up the threads and slowly drive it in. Once the plug goes in, run a bit of oil through the pan with the plug out to remove any fillings.
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02-19-2015, 07:38 AM	#3
Tzu Lieutenant Colonel 29 Rep 1,551 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto iTrader: (1)	I'm guessing you stripped the pan and not the bolt, since the pan is aluminum. Cheapest way is like paintballdude said, but be weary of getting shavings into the pan. I'd remove the pan if I were do that personally.
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02-19-2015, 07:44 AM	#4
paintballdude05 Second Lieutenant 23 Rep 202 Posts Drives: 2011 e92 335xi Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Sudbury, Ontario iTrader: (0)	You could add grease to the threads of the new plug as you thread it in. That way most of the fillings would get trapped by that. You could then wipe the threads to remove the grease/ filings left over. On top of that, you could spray it out with brake clean then poor in a quart of oil or so to flush it out afterwards, there shouldn't really be anything left. If you do get a bit of fillings left over I wouldn't worry about it too much though. All the oil is filtered anyways so it would get caught before doing any damage to the engine.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

02-19-2015, 08:58 AM	#6
paintballdude05 Second Lieutenant 23 Rep 202 Posts Drives: 2011 e92 335xi Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Sudbury, Ontario iTrader: (0)	True enough, however with a new filter and fresh oil the chances of going through the bypass is fairly slim I would think. Who knows though. I'm sure a shop doing the work won't go through all the steps I listed to do the same job. The real fix for this would be to install a new pan with good threads.
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02-20-2015, 07:42 AM	#7
Tzu Lieutenant Colonel 29 Rep 1,551 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto iTrader: (1)	You're tapping the sump, and oil is only filtered prior to going into the sump. ie. any filings in the sump is also in the same cavity as the oil pickup and rod bearings. Do what you will with your car but I wouldn't do it personally on mine.
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02-20-2015, 11:17 AM	#8
David0ff Combined Applications Group 1052 Rep 654 Posts Drives: Lada Scrapus Trofeo R Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Classified iTrader: (1)	I had this happen to me. Took the car to the dealer for a inspection before coming out of warranty and oil change, then the next time i did it myself they damn bolt stripped on the way out ! It took me 5 damn hours to extract the mafak and 5 mins to retread the oil pan hole.
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02-20-2015, 01:26 PM	#9
paintballdude05 Second Lieutenant 23 Rep 202 Posts Drives: 2011 e92 335xi Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Sudbury, Ontario iTrader: (0)	If there was anything left, it would go through the oil pickup, then pump and then into the filter. Yes the connecting rods and crank might come into contact with the possible shaving, but it should damage anything because all the bearings are already under engine oil pressure. If you just go with an oversized plug, fillings will be minimal since you're not cutting a huge around of material here. It's not like you're tapping a completely new hole. __________________ 2011 BMW 335xi (e92) - Black Sapphire Metalic, Coral Red Interior, X-Drive, iDrive, Executive Package, M-Sports, Servotronic, Glacier Silver Trim Mods - BMW Performance Black Kidney Grilles, OEM Oil Cooler Install
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02-20-2015, 02:25 PM	#10
grzes Captain 33 Rep 655 Posts Drives: 2009 bmw 335d LCI Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Alberta iTrader: (2)	wouldn't be just safer to get a new oil pan? More expensive but then you know all should be good. What ever you do fix it fast and do not drive it till you do so or you will end up with something like this (picture) and big expensive bill to pay for your new engine Attached Images
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