[Fishayyy]

So I'm finally going to pull the trigger on a new twin disc clutch and single mass flywheel from Motiv and I was wondering if there's anything else I should buy and swap out while I'm doing the clutch. I was thinking of getting some Rogue Engineering tranny mounts, and getting some kind of new transmission fluid (maybe redline?) Is there anything else you guys would recommend?

[Opo]

Most people replace the rear main seal while they're in there. I did so as well as Redline D6 ATF fluid for my 6MT tranny

[Fishayyy]

Originally Posted by Opo

Most people replace the rear main seal while they're in there. I did so as well as Redline D6 ATF fluid for my 6MT tranny

Is there any DIYs on that?

[shushikiary]

This link has a pdf in the posts that shows how to do it: http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18681

You dont need the special tools though. Just need some sheet metal screws, you screw the screws in, make sure you dont hit the block when you do either behind the seal or next to it, then use a hammer and pliers to pull the screws out and the seal will come with it.

Once out, you can take the new one and make sure its oriented properly then use a 6mm socket and lightly tap all around on it with a hammer to push it in, then use the locktite and primer.

I've heard of people using RTV instead of the locktite, but I personally would just buy the right locktite from the dealer (yes its 70 bucks).

You for sure want to replace your throwout bearing and pilot bearing. If you're getting an after market clutch it should come with both of those but check. I wouldnt resurface the DMFW (seems some people have had issues doing that) I'd just replace it. If you're using a stock BMW clutch there is some stupid tool you have to have to get the self adjusting clutch to be setup properly as well.

The pilot bearing is in the output shaft of the transmission, NOT the flywheel. The flywheel instead has a "pilot shaft" that you will have to press out and press into the new flywheel unless you got a stock DMFW as a replacement (if you get a SMFW you'll have to move it over). The pilot bearing is a royal PITA to get out, you'll NEED a pilot bearing puller that has a slide hammer and you'll want to screw it in there really tight and then hammer the living crap out of it to get it to come out. That or find your self a place that has the special BMW tool that pushes grease in the little hole behind the pilot bearing and have them pull it. Some people have used drimels to get it out, but that seems too dangerous to me.

[Fishayyy]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

The pilot bearing is in the output shaft of the transmission, NOT the flywheel. The flywheel instead has a "pilot shaft" that you will have to press out and press into the new flywheel unless you got a stock DMFW as a replacement (if you get a SMFW you'll have to move it over). The pilot bearing is a royal PITA to get out, you'll NEED a pilot bearing puller that has a slide hammer and you'll want to screw it in there really tight and then hammer the living crap out of it to get it to come out. That or find your self a place that has the special BMW tool that pushes grease in the little hole behind the pilot bearing and have them pull it. Some people have used drimels to get it out, but that seems too dangerous to me.

Well I am getting a new smfw , but Im unsure if they offer a new pilot bearing. Is there any where I can just buy a new one? Sounds like it's a lot of trouble just getting it out.

[Opo]

ECS Tuning also offers a brass pivot pin vs. the factory plastic one, at the very least you should be replacing the plastic pivot pin.

[danielfastv6]

Once you have your xmsn out there are 3 seals you can replace ( xmsn input, xmsn output, and shift link seal) only like 45$ for all 3. Also your gibo joint ( u-joint ) would not be a bad idea 45$ at auto zone. Every time I do a clutch replacement I recommend doing these . also The bolts that are blue tipped I think there 5 need to be replaced

[shushikiary]

The Bently manual said that you should replace the bolts around the transmission, of which when I did it 3 were blue and aluminum and the replacements are steel, and sense they are aluminum you MUST replace them or they will stretch.

It also said to replace the locking nuts on the gibo, but I've noticed that the bolt used on it are different between the 335i and 335xi, so you'll have to double check that. I found this a good idea to replace as they old ones, when screwed back on, didnt hold as well to prevent them from loosing as well as the new ones did.

You can for sure just buy a new pilot bearing from the dealer, they are pretty cheap. ECS tuning also sells them.

My car already had a metal pivot pin for the clutch fork... but you could replace it easily with a metal one if yours is plastic.

[Fishayyy]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

The Bently manual said that you should replace the bolts around the transmission, of which when I did it 3 were blue and aluminum and the replacements are steel, and sense they are aluminum you MUST replace them or they will stretch.

It also said to replace the locking nuts on the gibo, but I've noticed that the bolt used on it are different between the 335i and 335xi, so you'll have to double check that. I found this a good idea to replace as they old ones, when screwed back on, didnt hold as well to prevent them from loosing as well as the new ones did.

You can for sure just buy a new pilot bearing from the dealer, they are pretty cheap. ECS tuning also sells them.

My car already had a metal pivot pin for the clutch fork... but you could replace it easily with a metal one if yours is plastic.

Im waiting to see what comes with my clutch then I'll buy the rest. Do you know of a good place (or have a link) to buy the steel replacment bolts from?

[shushikiary]

Didnt notice you asked this until now .

I dont know the build date of your car, so I just took a guess but I suspect this is real OEM for yours: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=23&fg=10

Thus part numbers are: 23001222894

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES41947/

But really, you need to look on the door tag to get your build date, look up the real oem page for that, then get the part number, just to be sure.

[Fishayyy]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

Didnt notice you asked this until now .

I dont know the build date of your car, so I just took a guess but I suspect this is real OEM for yours: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=23&fg=10

Thus part numbers are: 23001222894

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES41947/

But really, you need to look on the door tag to get your build date, look up the real oem page for that, then get the part number, just to be sure.

It's okay I still haven't put the clutch in yet! By the way do you know if those are made of aluminum or steel?
Thanks for the help idk why I had such a problem finding them. The build date is 06/2008

[shushikiary]

All the replacement bolts they sell are steel. So first that part number is the right one for your car, and second the ECS replacements are for sure, like I said, made of steel.

The head size is different too. The old bolts are like an E18, and the new ones I believe are an E14 or E16. The old ones will be painted blue, the new ones will not. You can really feel the weight difference when you put them in your hands.

Oh, I should warn you too, the real OEM site is wrong on the number of bolts that are actually on the transmission.

It says there are 5 of those on mine, but there are not, there were only 3 (of the ones I gave you a part number for). I've heard that different builds of the car have different numbers of bolts before, so you might double check from the real OEM diagram which bolts you have and order only how many you need.

[Fishayyy]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

All the replacement bolts they sell are steel. So first that part number is the right one for your car, and second the ECS replacements are for sure, like I said, made of steel.

The head size is different too. The old bolts are like an E18, and the new ones I believe are an E14 or E16. The old ones will be painted blue, the new ones will not. You can really feel the weight difference when you put them in your hands.

Oh, I should warn you too, the real OEM site is wrong on the number of bolts that are actually on the transmission.

It says there are 5 of those on mine, but there are not, there were only 3 (of the ones I gave you a part number for). I've heard that different builds of the car have different numbers of bolts before, so you might double check from the real OEM diagram which bolts you have and order only how many you need.

Ehhh worst case scenario I buy 2 extra bolts lol