[Novo777]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forum but have been reading the threads for a while! I have just bought 2010 torquey in Alpina white. It is very stock and not special yet. From all the reading, studying and after a few PMs I am understanding that these cars have main problems with CBU and the emission alphabet soup.... So if anyone could correct me if I am not on track here but if -
1) EGR delete with block of plates
2) Down pipe replaced with Jess'
3) Tuned stage 1 or 2 through Jarek in Canada
4) clean out CBU or check for it at the least
5) methanol injection kit

Then this car will become significantly more reliable, with no codes due to the tune, no CBU due to no egr, and no crystallization stuff due to Down Pipe and because of all of those it will also be able to run 12s or so and get better MPGs if not pegged out all the time! Did I miss anything? Are those the 5 golden things that need to be done to sleep better at night and have bigger grin on the road?

[dzlmoose]

Your smiles per gallon will improve significantly.

[dixy2k]

All you need is an open road in that case.

[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by Novo777

..., and no crystallization stuff due to Down Pipe

Not sure, but by "crystallization stuff" do you mean the Diesel Exhaust Fluid, and their tanks and assemblege? Because although the DP might not have the bunghole for the DEF injector, the SCR Catalyst and DEF stuff will still be there.

And you should seriously consider an LSD to apply the power properly.

[Yozh]

Originally Posted by floydarogers

Not sure, but by "crystallization stuff" do you mean the Diesel Exhaust Fluid, and their tanks and assemblege? Because although the DP might not have the bunghole for the DEF injector, the SCR Catalyst and DEF stuff will still be there.

If you go the downpipe route, surely you will do it in conjunction with the tune and tune will take care of the SCR.

To the OP. I may be wrong, but I'm convinced that if someone wants to keep the car close to stock (not implying it's you), you can deal with CBU by installing meth. The crystallization issues I believe are always caused by old DEF, so a regular flush would most likely cure that.

[Novo777]

Thank you guys for your responses!

[rulonger]

Originally Posted by Yozh

If you go the downpipe route, surely you will do it in conjunction with the tune and tune will take care of the SCR.

To the OP. I may be wrong, but I'm convinced that if someone wants to keep the car close to stock (not implying it's you), you can deal with CBU by installing meth. The crystallization issues I believe are always caused by old DEF, so a regular flush would most likely cure that.

Yozh,

I am in the same boat as Novo777. My car comes out of warranty later this year and I was convinced that I needed a DP (to delete DPF), the EGR block off and a Canadian tune (to code out the DPF sensors, SCR and EGR). I have 63K on the odometer now and my car had CBU cleaning just before hitting 32K.

In the past three months (less than 2K miles) I have been getting the tell-tale CBU codes - zero adaptation Cyl. 1, smoothness Cyl. 1, zero adaptation Cyl. 2 and smoothness Cyl. 2. Also, MPG has dropped off a bit. The first shop visit was the entire month of January for cylinder 1 faults. The cylinder 2 faults occurred last week. Dealership is contacting regional engineering and I will need to take my car back in next week. I love to drive the car so I hate to have it in the shop.

It is worth noting that I do not have to maintain the systems for smog check, so I really thought that those steps outlined by the OP were the way to avoid CBU and system failures in the future. I would smile with the higher hp, but that is not my main motivation. I want a more reliable car.

But you say meth will resolve / greatly minimize CBU. What does a meth install entail? What are the operational costs of the system? Is meth an easier fix, in your opinion?

I guess my real question is this - if you lived in a state that did not require smog check, which would you do?

[Novo777]

I am stationed in Fort Campbell now and TN doesn't require any inspections of emissions so for simplicity and reliability I am going to remove the big DPF and replace it with Jess' DP (already talked to him) then block off EGR with plates (I am thinking with going with iaknown, but researching now and not sure if better to take the whole thing off and reroute the coolant hose and use full flange plates) and third but not least, I am sending the ECU to Canada so Jarek can do his magic! I think having less weight and less complicated parts helps with reliability and if something does start to break or leak it will be easier to catch if the big parts are out of the way!

My understanding of meth is - there is no way to go wrong on Diesel engine, as long as it doesn't spray too much at low boost (easy to control with a controller that comes in most kits) haven't found a single downside yet to meth injection. I also understood that "METH" ... You can use windshield washer fluid that's 20F or 30F the retire approved! And those jugs sell at auto-zone for few bucks! Refilling of those depends how many and how big your nozzles are that spraying in the intake.

[Novo777]

Originally Posted by Yozh

If you go the downpipe route, surely you will do it in conjunction with the tune and tune will take care of the SCR.

To the OP. I may be wrong, but I'm convinced that if someone wants to keep the car close to stock (not implying it's you), you can deal with CBU by installing meth. The crystallization issues I believe are always caused by old DEF, so a regular flush would most likely cure that.

Yozh I would keep the car close to stock if I lived in the estate that has emission test or if I had warranty still so I could revert things back but since neither of those apply here I figured it's better to go the "all the way" route, make the car more reliable, faster, better mpg, less complicated parts! It's just seems to good to be true but I will give it a try! 10 more days till I get back to US and then CMA for 3 weeks and fun will begin. I have never done diy but planning to do one (to the best of my abilities) so I can contribute back to the community. Everyone been very helpful and nice here!

[rulonger]

Seems a step needs to be added:

1) EGR delete with block of plates
2a) Down pipe replaced with Jess'
2b) port the wastegate
3) Tuned stage 1 or 2 through Jarek in Canada
4) clean out CBU or check for it at the least
5) methanol injection kit

Boy this will be fun.

[Novo777]

Have you done any of the steps? I read up on porting portion of the project and it seems like a tough one, drill... Turbo! Oh that's... I don't know!

[rulonger]

Not yet - targeting November

[DbLog]

Originally Posted by Novo777

... You can use windshield washer fluid that's 20F or 30F the retire approved! And those jugs sell at auto-zone for few bucks! Refilling of those depends how many and how big your nozzles are that spraying in the intake.

Just to clarify -20f

I used Peak -20 in my vw without any issues.

[lazyninja87]

you should add the oil catch can as #6 on that list

[Novo777]

Originally Posted by DbLog

Just to clarify -20f

I used Peak -20 in my vw without any issues.

Thank you for clarifying! I thought it was a negative temps but wasn't sure. Is it the blue colored one? How often do you refill with what size nozzles?

[Novo777]

Ok so we got:

1) EGR block off plates
2) Jess' down pipe
3) Port the waste-gate
4) Jarek's stage 1 or 2 tune from Canada with EGR/DPF/SCR delete
5) Clean out CBU or at minimum check for it.
6) Methanol injection
7) Oil catch can

So this is the list to do to make the car reliable and more fun after the warranty is up! Clean carbon, prevent it with egr and catch can and continue cleaning with meth, no expensive repairs of DPF or SCR systems and all of that ads power...
I think 1 - 4 have to be done all at once because they are kind of interlocked all together, right?

[335dwanted]

EGR block off (#1 below) can be done independently; it will throw a SES code (perhaps two) but they will not result in reduced power mode and can be reset if you care to with every drive cycle.

Originally Posted by Novo777

Ok so we got:

1) EGR block off plates
2) Jess' down pipe
3) Port the waste-gate
4) Jarek's stage 1 or 2 tune from Canada with EGR/DPF/SCR delete
5) Clean out CBU or at minimum check for it.
6) Methanol injection
7) Oil catch can

So this is the list to do to make the car reliable and more fun after the warranty is up! Clean carbon, prevent it with egr and catch can and continue cleaning with meth, no expensive repairs of DPF or SCR systems and all of that ads power...
I think 1 - 4 have to be done all at once because they are kind of interlocked all together, right?