[TheBigYahi]

Last year I broke a bleeder screw off like an idiot and I've been waiting for an excuse to replace the caliper. Big sale at Advance and now I've got rebuilt units for both rears ready to go. (Actually they sent me one without the bracket and they're sending me a new one).

Anyway, I've done pads and rotors and bleeding before, but does anyone have any additional advice for replacing the whole caliper? I'm planning on replacing all the bolts and greasing the slide bolts, piston face and pad slides. I read if I keep the pedal pressed in 1/2 way it'll minimize fluid leakage so I'll do that too.

Anything else? The pads and rotors are practically new so I'll be reusing them.

Oh yeah, one of the calipers came with 2 copper washers that I can't figure out what they're for.

[robthewrench]

The copper washers are usually for the banjo bolt connection of the brake hose to the caliper. Both calipers should have come with them. The end of the brake hose that connects to the caliper is molded into a barrel shape and the bolt to attach the hose goes through the barrel and then into the caliper. Once copper washer goes on top of the barrel between the bolt head and the barrel the other goes on the bottom of the barrel between the barrel and the caliper.

These washers crush to make a hydraulic tight seal. You should always use new ones when taking this hose off the caliper. The auto parts store should have them for cheap. Both of your calipers should have come with a set. When you disconnect the brake hose from the old caliper, be sure to remove the old crush washers from the banjo (barrel). They may be hard to see under the dirt, but they are there.

You should be able to do this well and save yourself a couple of bucks! Good idea not to leave the broken bleeder screw in place, sooner or later you'll need to get to it!
You can google banjo bolt crush washer and get more info.

If you've done pads before, this is pretty similar. You'll need to do a lot more bleeding to flush out all the air, but otherwise very similar job. Don't let the resevoir go empty while bleeding! Getting air out of the master cylinder and ABS unit is a bigger pain!

Check the brake hoses at the same time. Now is also a great time to replace the brake hose if it is either very old or shows signs of damage.

[robthewrench]

Don't feel too bad about the bleeder screw. I've busted 3 or 4 over the years as well. They can get stuck pretty tight and then the brass won't hold up to the force required to loosen them.

[TheBigYahi]

Thanks for the advice.

I've got a question about the brake lines since they're not really banjo bolts but just threaded fittings, am I still supposed to use a crush washer? I understand how it would be necessary with the banjo bolt but I'm not so sure with this fitting.

[robthewrench]

Check the hose when you take it off. If there is no copper washer, then you don't need them.

The caliper kit you got may be for multiple years and models and some may use one with a banjo bolt.

Sorry for the mis-direction.

[TheBigYahi]

Ah no problem. As usual the best advice when putting something back together is to put it back the way it was.

[mweisdorfer]

OEM part no is :


34 21 6 769 102 - right


34 21 6 769 101 - left

[Efthreeoh]

Since we're talking stuck bleed screws... what I do is soak them in penetrating oil for about 15 minutes (I use Kroil). Then I use a 1/4-drive ratchet with a deepwell socket rather than a wrench. Using a socket helps putting the torque straight down the axis of the bleed screw. Some times if there is room I use my 3/8-drive T-bar handle instead of the ratchet. A little pressure clockwise first than backing it out helps some times too.

[TheBigYahi]

The problem I had was that I started at the rear right using a deep socket and it gave me a little resistance but it went. Emboldened, when I got a little resistance on the rear left I gave it a little extra oomph and found the top part of the bleeder in my socket and the bottom part still in the caliper.

It's even better now because now there is also the business end of a left-hand drill bit jammed into the bleeder hole from when I broke that off trying to remove the bleeder. It was not a good day when that happened.

On that subject, I'm tempted to put the smallest amount of anti-seize I can manage onto the bleeder screw (closest to the flats) to avoid it seizing up again. Is that as stupid as I think it might be? I definitely don't want to get anti-seize into the brake fluid.

[robthewrench]

Try teflon tape instead of anti sieze. It won't mix into the fluid.

[TheBigYahi]

Rear caliper replacement went great, better than I expected actually. I then went to the fronts to replace the dust shields (long story) so I cleaned everything from the front brakes while I was doing it. After putting it all back together the friction material isn't depositing uniformly on BOTH front rotors. It only seems to be depositing on the inside 1.5". I only have about 20 miles on it (including bedding in) since I put it back together. I'm not concerned right now, it's braking just fine but it definitely is a little weird.

This is normal, it takes a very long time for the rear brakes to bed in under normal driving,

I think it took 1000 miles for my zimmerman rear rotors to have their coating completely wear off.

[TheBigYahi]

These were actually the fronts and it was a remove and replace the same pads and rotors (very little wear). It's improved some, maybe I cleaned some surface corrosion off the piston and carrier and now it's pressing more uniformly. Not so concerned anymore.