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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Oil Filter Housing Gasket - Rear Bolt



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      06-05-2015, 05:18 PM   #1
Greyfox
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Oil Filter Housing Gasket - Rear Bolt

I put a similiar copy of this in the DIY section.

Short version, the back bolt is a PIA to get to behind the manifold. Came up with the following...

Craftsman 1/4" socket # 33084 - 8mm
Craftsman 1/4" knuckle
Craftstman 1/4" Extension # 43531

Fits perfectly between the housing and the manifold. Hope it helps....
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      06-05-2015, 05:45 PM   #2
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is this for the n54
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      06-05-2015, 07:01 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by #Tee View Post
is this for the n54
I'm not sure if it will work for that or not. I have a N52.
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      06-05-2015, 07:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyfox
Quote:
Originally Posted by #Tee View Post
is this for the n54
I'm not sure if it will work for that or not. I have a N52.
ahh ok cause i had to remove the mani on the n54
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      06-05-2015, 08:18 PM   #5
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ahh ok cause i had to remove the mani on the n54
I almost did. But instead suffered through quarter turn of a wrench.... over and over and over....
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      06-06-2015, 06:49 AM   #6
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You beat me to it, I was going to post the same thing in the DIY... Basterd

I just did my gasket for the second time last Sunday. I had a bitch of a time remembering how I got the rear bolt out the first time (getting too old I guess). Anyway, the Torx head on the OFH bolts are a T10. All my T10 sockets are 3/8-drive and are too big to fit in the tight space between the bolthead and the manifold plenum. So I used the exact same setup as you pictured, except I used a 16-point 5/16 SAE socket that fit better than the 8MM. I used a 1/4-drive 6" extension with the 1/4-drive flex joint. But my bolt was well seized in-place, so I had to use a 3/8-drive ratchet (with a 1/4 to 3/8 converter). A little trick I discovered is I use a short bit of wiring harness loom protector (the split-plastic ribbed stuff) over the flex joint to keep it from flopping around. I also used a closed-end 5/16 wrench on the short-reversed location bolt under the coolant hose. One more bit of help, I highly recommend getting a new bolt for that location because after two changes of the gasket the bolt head get's pretty chewed up.

Dumb-ass me sitting here now typing away at 6:46 AM just thought of using some Kroil on the bolts to help break them loose - it was a long Sunday I guess...
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      06-06-2015, 08:05 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
You beat me to it, I was going to post the same thing in the DIY... Basterd


The above socket is a 16pt also. Actually took one of my old bolts into the Sears store and made sure it would fit the socket in the set before I bought it. Going to have to find a bigger tool box that will fit in the underfloor storage at this rate.....

I didn't think about checking the SAE set, but if I remember 8mm and 5/16 are almost exactly the same.
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      06-06-2015, 09:07 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Greyfox View Post


The above socket is a 16pt also. Actually took one of my old bolts into the Sears store and made sure it would fit the socket in the set before I bought it. Going to have to find a bigger tool box that will fit in the underfloor storage at this rate.....

I didn't think about checking the SAE set, but if I remember 8mm and 5/16 are almost exactly the same.
They are the equivalent size. My 1/4-drive metric sockets are 8-point, which is why I checked my SAE set.
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      06-06-2015, 03:19 PM   #9
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This is what I used on mine as well. Easy as pie.



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      06-06-2015, 05:49 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Denny347 View Post
This is what I used on mine as well. Easy as pie.



Dude, seriously, your engine is way to f'ing clean.
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      06-06-2015, 06:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Dude, seriously, your engine is way to f'ing clean.
What? Too clean?

I drive it daily, walked out there and snapped this just now.

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      06-06-2015, 08:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny347 View Post
What? Too clean?

I drive it daily, walked out there and snapped this just now.

Wait... wait... wait...

You drive it daily in Indiana and it's that clean?!?!

You got some kind of clean sterile tube you drive in?
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      06-06-2015, 10:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyfox View Post
Wait... wait... wait...

You drive it daily in Indiana and it's that clean?!?!

You got some kind of clean sterile tube you drive in?
He's an alien.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      06-07-2015, 08:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greyfox View Post
Wait... wait... wait...

You drive it daily in Indiana and it's that clean?!?!

You got some kind of clean sterile tube you drive in?
At the risk of derailing this thread, yeah, I do rinse it off in the spring then wipe it down every so often. It is MUCH easier to keep it wiped down then it is to let it go for a long time then clean it. My spring cleaning of the engine was right after I changed the oil filter housing gasket. I scrubbed the leaked oil from the front of the engine, it wasn't looking great. Simple Green is my friend.
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