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      07-19-2015, 10:56 PM   #1
Jaronbwall
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Water Pump

So I'm pretty sure my water pump is going out. The fan was running like crazy and sounded like most of the youtube videos. Question(s): Why don't I see a dash warning light? and how safe is it drive to work like this? I don't have replacement parts yet. I'm not confident about fixing it myself but may give it a try
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Last edited by Jaronbwall; 07-19-2015 at 11:02 PM..
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      07-20-2015, 12:33 AM   #2
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It is a matter of time not if the warning light and limp mode will occur.

I would plan to get the water pump checked out.

No codes?
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      07-20-2015, 08:48 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Digitalism View Post
It is a matter of time not if the warning light and limp mode will occur.

I would plan to get the water pump checked out.

No codes?
I don't have a code reader yet. I guess it went into limp mode last night since it made no power. The car was barely warmed up.
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      07-20-2015, 09:06 AM   #4
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Get it replaced ASAP unless you wan't to be stranded on the side of the road in a few days.
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      07-20-2015, 10:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk335 View Post
Get it replaced ASAP unless you wan't to be stranded on the side of the road in a few days.
I'm calling around for pricing at local INdy shops. Also, thinking about ordering a kit from Turner Motorsports (includes company stickers!) and doing it myself. Doesn't seem as difficult as I first thought.
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      07-20-2015, 02:36 PM   #6
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You probably have hidden codes related to the water pump, they won't cause an SES light. Did you try to do the auto-bleed procedure? Listening to the pump while its doing that could tell you for sure if it's dead.
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      07-20-2015, 02:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarronbwall View Post
I'm calling around for pricing at local INdy shops. Also, thinking about ordering a kit from Turner Motorsports (includes company stickers!) and doing it myself. Doesn't seem as difficult as I first thought.
It isn't hard, just a little bit of a tight area. I didn't pull the radiator or intercooler and it was fine.
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      07-20-2015, 03:25 PM   #8
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Auto-bleed

Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
You probably have hidden codes related to the water pump, they won't cause an SES light. Did you try to do the auto-bleed procedure? Listening to the pump while its doing that could tell you for sure if it's dead.
Just watched a youtube video on how to preform that procedure. I should hear the pump working and coolant flowing right?
Car has 80k miles so I'm going to purchase new parts from Turner M.S and play it safe.
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      07-20-2015, 03:43 PM   #9
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You're on borrowed time lol Most fail around 60k. There are shadow codes so you won't see them without a good scanner or a jb4.
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      07-20-2015, 04:43 PM   #10
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Mine failed around 85k. While it's auto bleeding you will see coolant spraying around inside the reservoir. Do this with a cold engine obviously. You can remove the cap while its doing this, nothing will spray out at you.

My pump sounded like this when it failed and I tried to do the autobleed:


To autobleed, have the ignition on but engine off, turn both temp knobs on the HVAC to max temp, and then turn the blower speed to the lowest setting before off. Then hold down the gas pedal all the way for about 10 sec and you'll hear the water pump kick on. Takes about 10 minutes. I left the reservoir cap loosely on just to make sure no coolant splashed out, and kept the bleed screw closed. I topped it off with coolant while it was autobleeding.
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      07-20-2015, 05:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Mine failed around 85k. While it's auto bleeding you will see coolant spraying around inside the reservoir. Do this with a cold engine obviously. You can remove the cap while its doing this, nothing will spray out at you.

My pump sounded like this when it failed and I tried to do the autobleed.

To autobleed, have the ignition on but engine off, turn both temp knobs on the HVAC to max temp, and then turn the blower speed to the lowest setting before off. Then hold down the gas pedal all the way for about 10 sec and you'll hear the water pump kick on. Takes about 10 minutes. I left the reservoir cap loosely on just to make sure no coolant splashed out, and kept the bleed screw closed. I topped it off with coolant while it was autobleeding.
So I tried the auto bleed procedure, like 3 times, and got nothing. Haha. I took the cap off and listened for the pump and heard silence
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      07-20-2015, 05:14 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarronbwall View Post
So I tried the auto bleed procedure, like 3 times, and got nothing. Haha. I took the cap off and listened for the pump and heard silence
Assuming you did it correctly that would suggest your pump is toast.
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      07-20-2015, 05:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferocity02 View Post
Assuming you did it correctly that would suggest your pump is toast.
I'm sure I did since it's not hard. Thanks for the help man!
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      07-27-2015, 09:05 AM   #14
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Follow Up

For anyone who viewed this post, I replaced the water pump/ thermostat yesterday. Difficultly level was about a 7/10. The upper water pump bolt was the hardest to get. Other than that not to bad! My engine temps dropped a little as well
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MHD stage 2+, BMS DPs, ARM charge pipe, Tial BOV, ARM FMIC, dual cone, CSF radiator, M3 control arms, sways, HAWK pads.
https://www.strava.com/athletes/8309149 Follow me on Strava

Last edited by Jaronbwall; 09-03-2015 at 01:44 PM..
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