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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Vibration at 80
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07-25-2015, 03:15 AM | #1 |
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Vibration at 80
I'm having a wobble/vibration at around 80 mph and it's really bloody annoying!!!
Tried 2 set of wheels, 2 sets of tyres, all balanced to within an inch of their life and it's still there. Anyone any suggestions? |
07-25-2015, 03:23 AM | #2 |
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Its potentially a control arm or balljoint on the front end thats becoming loose/worn.
Mine does something similar, though it comes and goes as it feels like, most of the time its not there, but some days its very noticable. |
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07-25-2015, 05:58 PM | #6 |
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Drives: E90 M3 LCI Jerez Black
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Check all wheel bearings, bushes, etc.
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07-26-2015, 05:02 AM | #7 |
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Drives: E92 325i MSport Coupe
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Guibo flexi-joint on the way out?
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07-26-2015, 06:16 AM | #8 |
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Could be anything especially re being speed sensitive. Could be suspension related through to drive train related or even dare I say it brake or brake assembly related. Brake wise you'd think its only when applying them but you can have issues re these as the roll there's heat build up heat can/will create vibrations.
Suspension wise we could be talking lower arms(control arms) known as tensio struts, a weak McPherson suspension strut with a lack of resistance that can show its hand under certain conditions The other thing I've seen on several occasions related to the wheel/tyre area, though as you say you've gone through this to rule this out, but if you've got a tyre that's feathered or a tyre that is mis shapened then you will pick up vibration at certain speeds, likewise a slightly distorted wheel can produce the same issues as well. The wheel/tyres you've swapped are they new/used. The dilemma is where to start. See these issues all the time and if approached head on can be solved. First on the brake front MOT rollers will help(though before you do this endure that the cars been driven fairly hard with braking to ensure the brakes have been through the heat cycle if you follow me) you're looking for an imbalanced result) and do front and rears not just fronts. Also on the same subject if your discs are lipped corroded and scored that won't help even though a lot of garages may say otherwise. On the ramp you'd be looking at the suspension for play, though on the front tension struts for instance if you are able to free role the car, tap the brake pedal, if you feel a slight thump or jolt chances are there's something that needs addressing. While in the air re wheels/tyre standing behind each wheel spinning it round keep your eye and head static and watch for deformation and slight visual difference(when you fonthis test tge tyre should spin and look perfectly uniform)perhaps 40% of the cars we see are anything but this. I've got a small vibration at 75 on mine and I know the offside tyre has a small deformation on the inner sidewall tread block area which I've seen with my own eyes. Oddly enough tyre balancing doesn't pick up 100% on these sort of issues. Apart from that again re suspension checking the front struts for instance for lack of resistance is straight forward. The rest of the checks can be done fairly easily while on the ramp. There's still the other issue re the vibration re whether it's coming from the drive train we usually end up getting tge cars on the 4 poster and with the rear wheels suspended end up driving them and inspecting from the underside to confirm an issues re prop centre bearing that we'd looked at on the ramp prior to carrying out this test. Can you drive through the vibration? Does the vibration get worse as speed rises? Truth be told vibrations when discussed create many wild stabs in the dark, the only way I've seen to get gonthe bottom of the situation is to tackle it methodically going through everything as you may discover more than one issue on your inspection. Hope you find the source of the vibration. |
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07-27-2015, 05:04 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the very informative post OGS. I'm pretty confident it's not the wheels/tyres (but will have them all rechecked)
As for suspension, that's on the cards anyway as I have coilovers to fit. So I'll get everything checked out then. I don't seem to be able to drive through the vibration it does continue at higher speeds (on a provate road obviously!) but downs t seem to get worse or better. Thanks again for the posts guys - looks like the car will be getting a good going over very soon (not a bad thing) Cheers 'V' |
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07-27-2015, 04:12 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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07-28-2015, 03:29 AM | #11 |
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Mine does something similar to what you described but i can drive through it and some times i don't get the vibration at all.
If i drive at a constant 75-80 i can feel a vibration from the rear start to manifest itself (as i can feel it in the seat of my pants) its not mega but you can feel it. however if i accelerate from say 30 past 80 (private road of course) then it doesn't vibrate or at least i cant feel it. I suspect worn bushes and/or rear shocks cars currently on ~148000 miles and im unsure if either have ever been changed so thats going to be my first port of call. If yours starts at 80 and doesn't subside at all it does sound to me like a possible driveline issue but as OGS said only real way of solving is to touch all bases i may end up changing the suspension arms and shocks and find its still got a vibration. |
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07-28-2015, 07:35 AM | #12 |
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I hopeful it's something simple but I'll get it all checked. My car is a 56 plate so is getting on a little but has only just reached 60k. I guess it's getting to that age where things need replacing. Hey ho it'll get sorted
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