[ENINTY]

If you read my posts, I'm a big proponent of the long oil change intervals. But with my other BMWs, I need to add a quart of oil every 3 -4 thousand miles or so; so over 12,000 miles I really almost change half the oil anyway.

My 325i E90 during its first oil change interval, 0 - 17,000 miles, finally needed a quart of oil at 15,500 miles. I was sweating it pretty bad since I've never owned or heard of any car going that far without needing at least a quart of oil. So I decided on my second oil service interval to check the sensor when it got a quart low. Well, after 12,000 miles (29,000 total on the odo - and still reading full) I decided to measure the oil quantity with an in-between oil change.

To my astonishment, the engine had 6.5 quarts still in it, after 12,000 miles. Truly amazing. Heck of a motor.

[Jaws]

My car uses zero oil too.

[ages944]

Engines shouldn't burn or lose oil if their seals are in good shape.

[Jaws]

Originally Posted by ages944

Engines shouldn't burn or lose oil if their seals are in good shape.

There are many engines that use a little bit of oil and are in perfectly good condition. My S2000 AP1 is one of those. It is typical of that engine to use a bit.

[DrGP]

I can't agree with ANYTHING you are doing with your oil change intervals. First of all, NONE of my previous Audis ar BMW(or cars of other makes ) used ANY oil at all. I attribute that to my break in procedure that does not follow the manufacturer's recommendation(Motoman's technique).

Secondly, there is not an oil made anywhere in this universe that should be kept in the car longer than the first 5000 miles. That factory oil is full of metal particles not filtered by the oil filter and has fuel dilution due to the pistons not seating TOTALLY from the factory.

You may have a heck of a motor in spite of the abuse you have given it. Topping off with a qt of fresh oil does not rejuvenate the entire volume of oil in the crankcase. If you had sent your oil out for analysis (as some have) you might be very surprised to see a report showing excessive wear. BTW, initial wear is OK. You need that wear to get the rings to seat COMPLETELY. After that, wear is BAD. If you have left your oil in as you say, your engine is wearing faster than it should. Not to mention sludge build up. It your car, abuse it if you want. But you are only fooling yourself.

[ages944]

Originally Posted by Jaws

There are many engines that use a little bit of oil and are in perfectly good condition. My S2000 AP1 is one of those. It is typical of that engine to use a bit.

Yes, but they shouldn't burn oil.
Can an engine burn oil and still run well? Of course, depending on the amount. As an example, I had an Oldmobile Cutlass Ciera that burned a little oil, and the engine was running fine at 290,000+ miles. However, an engine shouldn't burn oil.

Ah life, it's never quite as black and white as we'd like it to be.

[HyperM3]

M engines are expected to burn 1qt/1k miles. Thats the way they roll.

[noro]

An engine that burns NO oil is a bad engine. An engine that has less than 10K will not burn oil simply because the rings are too tight. Your car will eventually start burning normal amounts of oil. What that means is that the rings are now still tight but are sliding within the combustion chamber with ease. What that means is more power to the wheels, better fuel economy and smoother engine operation.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by DrGP

I attribute that to my break in procedure that does not follow the manufacturer's recommendation(Motoman's technique).

Threadjack,

Did u replace u'r oil w/non-synthetic before break-in?

[S4to335]

I dunno know about you guys..but I am really worried that if this sensor goes out...I wont know it...and the engine could definitely suffer...camshafts especially. I wish bmw would go back to the damn dipstick.

[ages944]

Originally Posted by S4to335

I dunno know about you guys..but I am really worried that if this sensor goes out...I wont know it...and the engine could definitely suffer...camshafts especially. I wish bmw would go back to the damn dipstick.

not to go OT, but my sensor did in fact go out, and I had it replaced. It was somewhat obvious that the sensor was failing however because the indicated oil level started fluctuating back and forth daily. One day I was "3/4qt low" the next day I was full, etc. A standard dipstick would have been easier.

[ENINTY]

Originally Posted by DrGP

I can't agree with ANYTHING you are doing with your oil change intervals. First of all, NONE of my previous Audis ar BMW(or cars of other makes ) used ANY oil at all. I attribute that to my break in procedure that does not follow the manufacturer's recommendation(Motoman's technique).

Secondly, there is not an oil made anywhere in this universe that should be kept in the car longer than the first 5000 miles. That factory oil is full of metal particles not filtered by the oil filter and has fuel dilution due to the pistons not seating TOTALLY from the factory.

You may have a heck of a motor in spite of the abuse you have given it. Topping off with a qt of fresh oil does not rejuvenate the entire volume of oil in the crankcase. If you had sent your oil out for analysis (as some have) you might be very surprised to see a report showing excessive wear. BTW, initial wear is OK. You need that wear to get the rings to seat COMPLETELY. After that, wear is BAD. If you have left your oil in as you say, your engine is wearing faster than it should. Not to mention sludge build up. It your car, abuse it if you want. But you are only fooling yourself.

Your flat simply wrong. I'm really not interested in your opinion. I didn't start this thread to have a discussion on oil sevice intervals. I had a 1989 325i, owned since new, that went (as is still going) over 257,000 miles following BMWs recommended oil change interval (approx 12,000 miles). My neighbor bought the car for his kid in May '06 and it is still running strong. I was in the motor every 15,000 miles to do valve adjustments, and the engine was very clean with no sludge anywhere.

The oilfitler housing on my E90 is as clean as new. There is no sludge in my engine, nor will there be. My wife drives a Z3 where I also follow the recommended oil service intervals, that engine is also sludge free after 120,000 miles. So, I don't have an opinion on the oil issue, I have facts.

If you have ever changed the oil in a diesel engine you would freak out. The oil that comes out of a diesel engine will stain your skin black.

[TX S3]

My reading yesterday was between the Min and Max. I changed my oil about 4K ago. It used oil, so I added less than 1/4 of a quart. I check the damn sensor, still at the same level, between Min and Max.

Even when the car is warm and parked even on surface. The manual indicated do not add oil not unless it lights up below Min.( yeah right that is when you need a tow truck)

[ENINTY]

The manual states to only add oil when the level indicator reads 1 quart low. That is what I did at 16,000 miles, or so, when it came up I was a quart low. Adding 8 ounces of oil probably doesn't change the oil volume very much and doesn't triggere a change in the system. Even with 1 quart low, having 6 quarts in the engine is plenty of oil to keep the pressure at the proper level. The N52 engine has a constant-pressure oil pump (i.e. it doesn't change pressure based upon engine RPM).

[schorney]

I suspect that I have a faulty oil level sensor. Yesterday afternoon I checked the oil level and it indicated max. After 200 kilometers of driving I got a warning saying add 1 qt oil (coincidently I was returning home from BMW after getting a faulty seat heater switch fixed). Since I was very close to home, I parked the car in the garage. Today, I am not getting the add 1 qt oil warning. I wish this engine had a dipstick since I have had many occasions when I get varying oil levels when I check.
I am heading to the garage to change the oil, add the rear 12 volt aux. plugs, add the rear fog light mod. and install a engine oil heating pad.

[gloster]

Originally Posted by schorney

...and install a engine oil heating pad.

What pad heater are you installing, how much, and where did you get it?

[schorney]

http://www.dieselproducts.com/proheat/padheater.html

I have the the Model 16. The info. below is what they sent me before i ordered it.

Oil Pan Heaters

Our oil pan heaters are thin, flexible heating pads that are permanently bonded to the bottom or side of the oil pan. The heater has the special adhesive already on it, by simply peeling off the protective backing and pressing the heater firmly in place on a clean, flat surface, the heater is ready to be used. Note the heater must be installed on a smooth flat area, free of grooves and ridges. Only to be installed on metal oil pans.



No special tools or skills are required. Everything for a complete installation is included with each heater.



An Oil Pan Heater is far superior to a block heater and more efficient as a block heater only "warms" a part of the engine not all the engine.



An Oil Pan Heater "heats" the complete engine starting at the bottom.

The hot oil heats the crankshaft, which in turn heats the connecting rods, pistons and cylinder heads. Remember "heat" rises.



In 2 hours, our oil pan heaters can raise the engine oil temperature 100F / 40C.



By installing an Oil Pan Heater, your vehicle will start easier and there will be less engine wear.



Based on an oil capacity of 7 litres, we recommend the model 16 with an output of 250 watts.

The model 16 measures 4” x 5” and requires a smooth flat surface on the side or bottom of the oil pan for installation.



Filter Heater Model

Our FH-50 is a flexible heating pad designed to be installed on fuel, lube oil and hydraulic filters. It is easy to install and remove as it is held in place with Velcro straps.

The heater operates on 12 volts, produces 50 watts and draws 4 amps. It is designed for filters with a diameter of 3.5" to 5.0".

The FH-100 heater operates on 12 volts, produces 100 watts and draws 8 amps. It is designed for filters with a diameter of 3.5" to 5.0".



Battery Warmer

They are of similar design as the oil pan heaters, without the adhesive. They are installed under the battery so they are very easy to install. Available in 110 volt or 240 volt, the BH-60 has an output of 60 watts, which will keep the battery warm and prevent overheating. The BH-60 measures 5.5" x 8.5" and is suitable for most vehicles and trucks. By installing a Battery Warmer, the efficiency of the battery will be increased to give you reliable starting ability on the coldest days. (not to be installed in insulated battery boxes).



Heater-Stat

To automatically control the Oil Pan Heater we offer the optional Heater-Stat, model HS-3. The HS-3 will turn ON the heater(s) when the ambient temperature falls below 35F/2C and will stay ON until the temperature warms up to 45F/7C. The HS-3 is rated for 1800 watts/ 120 volts, so one unit can handle an Oil Pan Heater and our Battery Warmer.



Pricing

Model 16 Oil Pan Heater $85.00 CAD

Model BH-60 Battery Warmer $42.00 CAD

Model FH-50 Filter Heater $85.00 CAD

Model FH-100 Filter Heater $90.00 CAD

Model HS-3 Heater-Stat $25.00 CAD



Special

Model 16 starter pack $134.00 (comprising heater, battery warmer & heater-stat)



Shipping starts at $7.50 but this cost is dependant upon quantity ordered &.delivery method



For your convenience we accept Visa & Master Card.



Ordering

Attached is our order form, it can be completed on your computer using Acrobat Reader.
When complete, print the form and fax or mail it back to us. Or print the form, scan it and email it to us.
You can send us an email with your order and payment details, or you can email us with your telephone number and we will call you. Please indicate a convenient time for us to call.
Alternatively you can call us at 905-362-0423 or toll free 1-800-668-4835 with your order.

[schorney]

Finally installed the pad heater today. I will post some picks in the next few days. Since I was doing an oil change at the same time the install was easy and took less than 30 minutes.

[gloster]

Originally Posted by schorney

Finally installed the pad heater today. I will post some picks in the next few days. Since I was doing an oil change at the same time the install was easy and took less than 30 minutes.

Very interesting. I'd appreciate it if you can post the temperature your oil reads when you first start your car on a cold morning.

[BK]

Originally Posted by noro

An engine that burns NO oil is a bad engine. An engine that has less than 10K will not burn oil simply because the rings are too tight. Your car will eventually start burning normal amounts of oil. What that means is that the rings are now still tight but are sliding within the combustion chamber with ease. What that means is more power to the wheels, better fuel economy and smoother engine operation.

+1 There has to be some oil in the pistons to allow them to move freely, so you'll burn at least some. If you change your oil frequently, it's usually too little to notice.

FWIW, on my car, the oil sensor has never showed less than full, but I've changed the oil relatively frequently. First at 4000 (I paid for it) and 11500 miles (free 1 year oil change). I'll get another free one around 17500 miles, according to the service indicator.

[schorney]

Originally Posted by gloster

Very interesting. I'd appreciate it if you can post the temperature your oil reads when you first start your car on a cold morning.

It's hard to say. I tried plugging the pad heater in for 3 hours tonight. The outside air temperature was approx. -15 c. I didn't really notice a difference on the gauge. What I do notice is that the warm up time is much faster.

[gloster]

Originally Posted by schorney

It's hard to say. I tried plugging the pad heater in for 3 hours tonight. The outside air temperature was approx. -15 c. I didn't really notice a difference on the gauge. What I do notice is that the warm up time is much faster.

Makes sense. Assuming your garage is about 30 degrees, your oil would start at the same temperature. Since our gauge doesn't start till 150 degrees, I was probably expecting too much thinking it would make it that hot.