[Rhylea]

Hello all,

I am about to install my newly delivered BMS JB4 into my 2011 335i N55 (ADM - Australian Domestic Market). I did a dry run to get my head around it. When I opened up my ECU box I noticed that the CAN wires do not have the clear plastic shield at the end, but instead appear to go straight into the connector. From looking at the ECU box, here are my questions:
* Are the 4 wires (2 bundles of red and blue wires twisted together) in the attached pic, the CAN wires that the JB4 needs connecting to?
* If so, it appears as though I will have to cut and soldier them in order to make the connection. Having said that, do the wires still need to go into the OEM connector as well?
* Finally, since I already have the exhaust flap solenoid disconnected in the boot of the car, is there any real need to connect the JB4 CAN wires (and cut up the original wiring harnass)? What's the benefit to using the JB4 to control the exhaust flap?

Thank you for your assistance.
Rhys

[jgoens]

Originally Posted by Rhylea

Hello all,

I am about to install my newly delivered BMS JB4 into my 2011 335i N55 (ADM - Australian Domestic Market). I did a dry run to get my head around it. When I opened up my ECU box I noticed that the CAN wires do not have the clear plastic shield at the end, but instead appear to go straight into the connector. From looking at the ECU box, here are my questions:
* Are the 4 wires (2 bundles of red and blue wires twisted together) in the attached pic, the CAN wires that the JB4 needs connecting to?
* If so, it appears as though I will have to cut and soldier them in order to make the connection. Having said that, do the wires still need to go into the OEM connector as well?
* Finally, since I already have the exhaust flap solenoid disconnected in the boot of the car, is there any real need to connect the JB4 CAN wires (and cut up the original wiring harnass)? What's the benefit to using the JB4 to control the exhaust flap?

Thank you for your assistance.
Rhys

They are under that felt wrap below..undo that black part on the wires and you will see the plastic connectors.

[Dhillon92]

Those aren't the wires you're looking for, look at the wire bundles that are held together by that "cloth" tape. You will find two wires that have long clear sleeves over them to make a connection. Refer to the install guide, pull the sleeve off, twist appropriate wire, put sleeve back on.

The install guide has pics, and you will the find the wires that are in those pics, just look deeper.

No cutting of any wires in the ecu box. CAN wires aren't just to open and close an exhaust flap, They're literally the wires that make the communication between your DME and the jb4. Alot of the processing that the jb4 does is communicated through those wires. The gauge menus, logging, reading values, etc.

The exhaust flap on/off thing is just a small feature, you can reconnect the connector in the trunk, and just use the jb4 to keep it open.

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

+1 on that those aren't the wires you are looking for. They are in the bundle that is tightly wrapped in felt tape.

You'll get a lot more useful help posting to BMS' support forum as well.

Mike

[Rhylea]

Thanks for the replies gents.
Here is a bigger pic of the ECU that I took at the time. So from what I see it will be in the bundle of wires at the bottom of the pic (the one with the felt tape wrapped around it). I shall take a deeper look next time I have the box open. Obviously I took too quick of a look
Cheers Rhys

[-null]

I literally just did this a few hours ago. Yes, it's in the bundle at the bottom center of your picture.

[Rhylea]

So I did the proper install and everything went as planned. Actually was quite a simple install.
A couple of comments after the first quick drive:
# I noticed that a solenoid, that I suspect is the boost solenoid, appears to be ticking constantly and loudly. Has anyone experienced this?
# The plug in boost wires tend to get very hot. I am thinking that I should put some shielding around them. Has anyone noticed this?
# I have put it into Map 5 to learn but is Map 2 better? The car is stock apart from drop in filter and BMS charge pipe but I run 98ron.
# I don't have the flex wires but am I able to use some e85 to assist?

Cheers Rhys

[Rhylea]

Did my first quick log down the road (in Map 5) and had these codes come up:

* 277A No Description Found (from N55 Code list: Air mass sensor, signal: Short-circuit or line break (open circuit) - I'm thinking maybe the plug (Plug 2) isn't all the way when I installed it. It was the one that didn't quite fit well but appeared to go in none the less. Im guessing this is important to the running of the car?

* 29D1 No Description Found (from N55 Code list: Intake air temperature sensor, electrical: Short circuit to earth) - I beleive this is the sensor that sits in the charge pipe, correct? Why would this code occur from just installing the charge pipe?

As soon as I clear them they return. Are these critical to the performance of the car? Do I need to address them immediately? If so, what do i need to do?

Additionally, is this the latest firmware for my E92 N55 (no settings have been altered, these are how they came from BMS)?

Thanking you
Rhys

[Dhillon92]

Go to the iso thread on n54tech and copy the settings. Your boost limit on third is 1psi, zero that.

For the exhaust code look at the plug in your trunk behind the flap on the driver side by the taillight. Make sure its connected.

Other two are normal. Clear em, you're running way too lean, adjust those settings!

[jgoens]

As Dhillion said..you have the so-called golf tee mod? I unhooked the sensor in the trunk and got that code, so I hooked it back up and no code. I'm assuming you took the rear engine cover off--If it was a bitch to put back on and you got rough with it like I always do you may have jarred the map sensor loose. I posted how I found this out a couple weeks back when I changed plugs. Just throwin it out there.

[weehe126]

Change 3rd gear boost limit to 0, change N20 TMAP to 0, Change 6 cylinder timing to 0. If you want to use map 5 you need to do 3 3rd gear pulls 2500-6500rpms for it to adapt.

[Rhylea]

Thanks gents.

I will post over there for some further assistance.