[Volasko]

For the people who have slotted rotors that said they couldn't hear or feel a difference vs. blanks they are lying or not very observant. I have the ECS rotors and under hard braking situations there is definitely a noticable noise and vibration in the pedal. I personally kinda like it, but others may not. If I were to do it again I would go with blank OEM zimmermans. The geomet coating that ECS claims to stop rust doesn't do jack all if you live in the rust belt. Look at my rotors after only one winter season:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8p...ew?usp=sharing

[mike-y]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

Is there any type of rotor that's best against warping? My car seems to warp rotors. It might just be the way I bed them though. I was thinking of going with the drilled ones for that reason.

do you use a good torque wrench and torque your lug bolts to spec when putting on the wheels? uneven lug bolt tightening will cause rotors to warp when they get hot.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by Volasko

For the people who have slotted rotors that said they couldn't hear or feel a difference vs. blanks they are lying or not very observant. I have the ECS rotors and under hard braking situations there is definitely a noticable noise and vibration in the pedal. I personally kinda like it, but others may not. If I were to do it again I would go with blank OEM zimmermans. The geomet coating that ECS claims to stop rust doesn't do jack all if you live in the rust belt. Look at my rotors after only one winter season:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8p...ew?usp=sharing

Strange. The ECS rotors on mine looks pretty good after one winter.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Strange. The ECS rotors on mine looks pretty good after one winter.

Two possible reasons: you don't drive as much as he does on salty streets during winter and when you go to track all the little rust build up that might be there simply burns off.

Happy Thanksgiving fellow e90posters!

[Fundguy1]

I seriously didn't notice anything different and I know eery rattle and hum. Maybe the ones you got are different? This is rotor set number 4 for me and I have a vert. First 3 sets were oem.

[elh0102]

Originally Posted by Volasko

For the people who have slotted rotors that said they couldn't hear or feel a difference vs. blanks they are lying or not very observant. I have the ECS rotors and under hard braking situations there is definitely a noticable noise and vibration in the pedal.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8p...ew?usp=sharing

Should not be the case. I used slotted rotors a lot when I was active in track schools, as well as some OE Porsche drilled rotors. You should not feel any vibration.

[elh0102]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

Is there any type of rotor that's best against warping? My car seems to warp rotors. It might just be the way I bed them though. I was thinking of going with the drilled ones for that reason.

Should not make any difference. If your lug bolts are properly tightened, you could have an issue with the hub itself. Brake rotors very rarely warp. If you are over-heating the pad compound, the transfer to the rotors can build and cause vibration.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by elh0102

Should not be the case. I used slotted rotors a lot when I was active in track schools, as well as some OE Porsche drilled rotors. You should not feel any vibration.

It all depends on the pads used. OEM pads makes no difference on mine, but with aggressive track pads, slotted rotors are significantly louder under heavy braking.

[david in germany]

I once read an article on porche brake development. There was a need for a diameter increase for every percentage of loss of surface area because of cross drilling. Porche continued with the standard cross drilling because people associated cross drilled rotors with higher performance but the opposite was the truth. This is the reason most porche need such big rotors. If they would stop drilling, they could reduce the diameter to get the same stopping capability.
After I read the article, standard rotors only on my cars.

[elh0102]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

It all depends on the pads used. OEM pads makes no difference on mine, but with aggressive track pads, slotted rotors are significantly louder under heavy braking.

Yes, but the track pad compound is much louder with any rotor. There may something involved in your specific case that would result in the slotted rotors making more noise. I'm no expert, but that was never my experience.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by elh0102

Yes, but the track pad compound is much louder with any rotor. There may something involved in your specific case that would result in the slotted rotors making more noise. I'm no expert, but that was never my experience.

True, noise, harshness, and vibration levels will depend and will be affected by the rest of the setup: caliper bushings solid vs rubber, control arm bushings non M vs M, shockS and coil, strut and shock mounts, subframe bushings and etc...
Also, the person's sensibility and ability to determine that there is such noise, harshness or vibration.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by mike-y

for a street car, it doesn't matter much, just get what you like.

That said, I've seen drilled rotors crack during track use, so personally, I always run blanks. I just get the centric premium rotors - they are cheap, and the rotor hat is painted black, so it won't get that rusty film on it.

I agree with this, for a street car it's pretty moot and mostly looks.

I personally run a slotted 2 piece rotor on my C6Z. I chose this over the drilled option because the drilled came from the factory and were notorious for cracking around the drill area from stress. Drilled rotors also have less brake pad area.

So I wanted the slotted since they would be stronger and have more braking surface area. I beat the snot out of them and they handle it like a champ.

I tell most of my customers who ask to go for slotted for a slight upgrade over stock to dissipate heat/gas.

If you want the look of drilled then that is of course fine too, I'm just an advocate of keeping the most material on the rotor for braking force and strength.

That being said, good drilled rotors should be safe too.

Since someone remarked on vibrations with slotted rotors, I have to attest there is absolutely no abnormalities or vibrations. Sounds like a bad rotor. I'm not too familiar with ECS quality in regards to rotors.

I personally run DBA 2 piece rotors and I had stoptech slotted on my other vehicle. No vibrations at all.

[avocet]

FYI slotted rotors loose pad contact area as well.

But I would think the increase in psi of the pads with reduced area would offset any loss of area. The diameter of the rotor doesn't change so the braking force should be the same.

For the street my vanity gets the best of me and i run drilled. They haven't cracked and i actually like the feedback/noise the drilled rotors give(slotted rotors do this too).

[Camman]

So regardless of which route I go, of the options should be susceptible to warping, correct?

I've never experience warping on any rotors on this car and it's been pleasurable compared to when I had cheap rotors on my 97 camry that were warped after a week lol

I kind of want to do drilled rotors simply for the look of it and I should be safe since I don't do any track driving.

[hongsc]

Does everyone change out pads and rotors at the same time? I'm at 53K miles and the sensor still reads 3100 miles to go but that was 3000 miles ago, so I'm thinking of changing them out. Plus the rears are making noise.

[Fundguy1]

Originally Posted by hongsc

Does everyone change out pads and rotors at the same time? I'm at 53K miles and the sensor still reads 3100 miles to go but that was 3000 miles ago, so I'm thinking of changing them out. Plus the rears are making noise.

Pads as needed. If you change rotors do pads too. If your making noise it's probably to late to do just pads. The rotors will be scored more than likely. You need to swap before they squeek. Squeeking means your down to the metal in the pads and metal on metal puts the groves in the rotors killing them.

[hongsc]

Originally Posted by Fundguy1

Pads as needed. If you change rotors do pads too. If your making noise it's probably to late to do just pads. The rotors will be scored more than likely. You need to swap before they squeek. Squeeking means your down to the metal in the pads and metal on metal puts the groves in the rotors killing them.

Great. Now to order some parts. And ordering from Amazon since I have some credit/gift cards.

http://www.amazon.com/Centric-127-34...t+brake+rotors

http://www.amazon.com/127-34078R-Spo...MEEEAVC4JZ2V44

For the pads not sure which one to pick

Hawk Performance HB621B.638 HPS 5.0 Disc Brake Pad
Akebono EUR918A EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Front Brake Pad Set For

URO brake sensors

Looks like I only need one of each for the front and rear.

Any changes or suggestions? How about SS lines? Also got a quote of $100 for the installation. Seems like a fair price.

[04gto]

I have had the cross drilled Zimmerman on front with Akebono pads for 10k miles. They are at least as quiet if not more quiet than the stock set up. Power seems just as good only more progressive (smoother initial bite) and they leave ZERO brake dust. I highly recommend this set up for FBO DD use. I will be going with the same set up in the back when the time comes.

[Camman]

So I'm seeing different size rotors on some of the sites. Will 328i's fit 300x24 and 312x24?