[mfish123]

I have a 2009 335i Sedan with a 06/2009 production date. Apparently the LUK flywheel that a lot of others have used is only compatible with a production date up to 01/2009. See: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...tch/ES2580762/

I'd prefer to stick with LUK as they seem to be the OEM supplier and its basically the same thing BMW will sell you just not in a BMW box. Does anyone know if LUK makes the stock OEM DMFW for production dates after 01/2009? I can't seem to find it. If it exists a part number would be great.

Or was there just some tiny update that BMW made for the newer production dates that doesn't affect the fitment. In other words would the LUK flywheel fit and work well on my car?

If not, can anyone recommend an OEM quality DMFW for my production date that doesn't cost almost $1,000 like the BMW one does. I plan to match it up with a Spec Stage 2+ clutch. Thanks!

My clutch is slipping under WOT, more so in the higher gears, with only 55,000 miles pn it and just started happening yesterday. I've been driving stick for 15 years and I don't launch like a maniac, shift sloppily, or intentionally slip the clutch. I'm pretty disappointed although I'm the 3rd owner and don't know how it was driven prior to when I bout it with 39,000 miles. I'm only running a little more power than OTS Cobb stage 1+. Up until 5,000 miles ago I was only running a little more than stage 1 power. If I do the test where I try to get the car moving in 4th gear it stalls out like it should but I guess its worn enough to where at heavy loads with lots of midrange torque it can't hang on.

4th gear clutch slippling: http://datazap.me/u/mfish123/clutch-slipping-4th-gear

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The clutch slipping is not your fault. It's only a matter of time before all FBO / tuned cars start slipping. The stock pressure plate just doesn't have the clamping force as the car gets some mileage on it.
The flywheel pre 1/2009 is an 8 bolt. 2/2009 and on is a 6 bolt.
As far as which LUK flywheel is which I'm not sure since I dont have access to it.
That should atleast help with any questions for any LUK flywheel dealers you come across to get the right one for your vehicle. Manufacturing month/year is very important when it comes to the flywheel.

As a side note we are the only Spec dealer that lists the clutches correctly on our site for month/year combo's.

[bmwm3redblack]

Is the flywheel for 335xi and 335i the same???

[tntracewerks]

Originally Posted by bmwm3redblack

Is the flywheel for 335xi and 335i the same???

Yes xi & i share the same aftermarket flywheel. Production date is what sets each N54 engine apart. when it comes to flywheel & clutch combo.

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

The clutch slipping is not your fault. It's only a matter of time before all FBO / tuned cars start slipping. The stock pressure plate just doesn't have the clamping force as the car gets some mileage on it.
The flywheel pre 1/2009 is an 8 bolt. 2/2009 and on is a 6 bolt.
As far as which LUK flywheel is which I'm not sure since I dont have access to it.
That should atleast help with any questions for any LUK flywheel dealers you come across to get the right one for your vehicle. Manufacturing month/year is very important when it comes to the flywheel.

As a side note we are the only Spec dealer that lists the clutches correctly on our site for month/year combo's.

Jeff,

Thanks for the quick reply. At least now I know the difference is the 8 bolt vs. 6 bolt. So production date is vital.

Are there any, more reasonably priced than BMW OEM, dual mass flywheels, that fit a 6 bolt like mine? It seems like all the aftermarket options, aside from the Luk I found are single mass flywheels. I'd really like to avoid the chatter that comes along with a single mass.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by mfish123

Jeff,

Thanks for the quick reply. At least now I know the difference is the 8 bolt vs. 6 bolt. So production date is vital.

Are there any, more reasonably priced than BMW OEM, dual mass flywheels, that fit a 6 bolt like mine? It seems like all the aftermarket options, aside from the Luk I found are single mass flywheels. I'd really like to avoid the chatter that comes along with a single mass.

I dont know of any other OEM replacement DMFW besides going to BMW direct or the LUK.

[Casca]

Enter your info. Will tell you which LUK clutxh kit and flywheel and i think even F.A.G wheel bearings for your car.

http://catalog.schaeffler-aftermarket.us/

[cadillacgrills]

OP, FWIW....was having the same issue you're having with about the same mods, went thru two SPEC 2+ clutches before it was determined the LUK OEM FW was not holding and causing slipping. Completed 1000 miles of easy break-in on both, double the recommended 500 miles. Went with the SPEC SM steel fw and no issues after that. If you're getting the trans work done, you might as well consider upgrading the FW.

[3000GT MR]

The steel smfw has near stock Drivability. It's not racy feeling or anything. Id recommend it for anyone who is fbo especially going to a 2+ clutch.

Just to add info to this thread for future searchers. I have a 2/2009 build date and i have a 6 bolt. So Jeff's statement holds water about date accuracy. Don't do what i did and buy 2 flywheels (your welcome Jeff) just incase it was a 8 bolt. I know on some cars the month of a change is hit or miss but bmw seems to be pretty good with it

[jpsimon]

Interesting. My spec stage 3 and aluminum flywheel need replacing. I wanted to get away from the annoying rattle and get a LUK flywheel with a SPEC 2+ or 3+ clutch. This has me scared.

has anyone else had luck with LUK?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

The LUK is fine. It's an OEM manufacturer.

[3000GT MR]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

Interesting. My spec stage 3 and aluminum flywheel need replacing. I wanted to get away from the annoying rattle and get a LUK flywheel with a SPEC 2+ or 3+ clutch. This has me scared.

has anyone else had luck with LUK?

I run the 3+ and SS smfw. It's a long harsh break in period but it doesn't really chatter or have harsh engagement. Aluminum is a lot more chattery. I drive that set up everyday and don't ever think its too much.

[Joshboody]

I just replaced my spec/SM with stock clutch/DM. Not because of any issue, but for selling the car. I do like the stock setup a lot. Apart from the chatter and shudder on engagement, it was difficult for hold boost... had to be really focused. Now I can hold boost without thinking... likely has to do with engagement point low vs high.

I was going to try spec's SAC option, but decided not to take any chances.

[caliguy562]

Just replaced a slipping stock setup for a luk replacement and spec 3+. Have 60 miles of street driving, if that. Engagement is slightly higher than stock. It is silent and I get the occasional shudders in first or second. Still too early to call, but I'm trying to break in before I get these Vargas stage 2s put.in.

[caliguy562]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

Interesting. My spec stage 3 and aluminum flywheel need replacing. I wanted to get away from the annoying rattle and get a LUK flywheel with a SPEC 2+ or 3+ clutch. This has me scared.

has anyone else had luck with LUK?

I'll let you know how it goes in a few.....

[cadillacgrills]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

Interesting. My spec stage 3 and aluminum flywheel need replacing. I wanted to get away from the annoying rattle and get a LUK flywheel with a SPEC 2+ or 3+ clutch. This has me scared.

has anyone else had luck with LUK?

I would strongly urge you to consider the steel flywheel over LUK or aluminum FW. Although the steel FW has some chatter, it really isn't that bad at all and I will never use a LUK as long as i stay "modded". Here's the short version of my 6 month clutch/FW debacle in order of replacement:

1. Replaced clutch with clutchmasters 400; kept existing LUK FW.. slipped first time after 500 break-in
2. Replaced clutch again with another clutch masters 400; kept existing LUK FW..same results as above
3. Replaced clutch masters with SPEC 2+ and NEW LUK FW...slipped after 1000 miles of break-in
4. Replaced SPEC 2+ with the new SPEC 2+ with LUK from previous replacement...same result
5. Replaced LUK with SPEC steel FW with existing SPEC 2+ from previous...been holding with no issues for 5000 miles and I drive fairly aggressive with 370hp/430tq ptf tune

the common denominator in all this was the LUK FW...once it was taken out of the equation, things seem to work perfectly. Granted anything is possible, but i find it difficult to believe that i had 3 faulty clutches from well established companies.

[jpsimon]

Damnit I want to avoid all chatter completely. I've had to listen to it for about 45-50k miles now with this aluminum one. I want a setup I can end up selling on the car without having to tell people the noise the car is making "is normal, don't worry about it. trust me".

is there really no solution other than these steal and aluminum SMFW's for big torque?

does anyone have a comparison video of the aluminum vs. steel noise?

[caliguy562]

Originally Posted by cadillacgrills

I would strongly urge you to consider the steel flywheel over LUK or aluminum FW. Although the steel FW has some chatter, it really isn't that bad at all and I will never use a LUK as long as i stay "modded". Here's the short version of my 6 month clutch/FW debacle in order of replacement:

1. Replaced clutch with clutchmasters 400; kept existing LUK FW.. slipped first time after 500 break-in
2. Replaced clutch again with another clutch masters 400; kept existing LUK FW..same results as above
3. Replaced clutch masters with SPEC 2+ and NEW LUK FW...slipped after 1000 miles of break-in
4. Replaced SPEC 2+ with the new SPEC 2+ with LUK from previous replacement...same result
5. Replaced LUK with SPEC steel FW with existing SPEC 2+ from previous...been holding with no issues for 5000 miles and I drive fairly aggressive with 370hp/430tq ptf tune

the common denominator in all this was the LUK FW...once it was taken out of the equation, things seem to work perfectly. Granted anything is possible, but i find it difficult to believe that i had 3 faulty clutches from well established companies.

So, you're using the clutch that was designed for use with a dmf with the steel fw? I ask because it is my understanding that they sell both sac and non sac.

[Joshboody]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

Damnit I want to avoid all chatter completely. I've had to listen to it for about 45-50k miles now with this aluminum one. I want a setup I can end up selling on the car without having to tell people the noise the car is making "is normal, don't worry about it. trust me".

is there really no solution other than these steal and aluminum SMFW's for big torque?

does anyone have a comparison video of the aluminum vs. steel noise?

JP if you want to avoid chatter, go with stock DM period... anything else would be "hope". My recommendation would be the new spec 2+ full faced option... this was my original choice, but decided to go stock instead. All FWs have similar mating surfaces. The post above was just unfortunate coincidences... either break in; dimensions were off; installation; bad product, etc. I also recommend engagement near the bottom after having both. The higher engagement seems nice in concept, but much easier to hold boost with lower even though the logs look similar in foot timing... likely has to do with clutch switch in keeping the DME throttle open. Maybe others have diff experience though.

And of course if you pursue max torque, like many seem to, it will be tougher on the clutch. 50lbs more at 4.5k isn't helping greatly in max acceleration.

[jpsimon]

Thanks Josh - is LUK the OEM supplier?

[Tzu]

LUK is the flywheel OEM, yes. Many have used them without issue.

[specialist]

How about the luk clutches for the 335i?

335is clutch
http://catalog.schaeffler-aftermarke...11&engine=3.0L

vs
335is clutch from ECS
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-33....0L/ES1897635/

is there a difference?