[BostonMike]

I have a 2007 335i with a leaky oil pan gasket. I know what a pain in the ass it is to replace so I am having an indy do it. I have some questions though. I am seeking help here. First, is there an aftermarket alternative that is better than replacing with factory parts? I brought it down to the shop to have it looked at and they could not believe there was a gasket and not a permanent seal. When they fix, should they use a permanent seal or use the gasket again? Also, 9 of the bolt heads are broken off. They are shitty aluminium bolts and they are all brittle as hell. Should they use stronger bolts to hold them on? He just touched one of them and it came off in his hand!!! The car has 110k but I DO NOT want to have to do this job ever again. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Jklad]

Get a new gasket, and get a full set of new bolts - they are one time use. Also, replace both motor mounts while you are there, and replace one of the motor mounts with the upgraded 335is mount.

This is also a great time to do your wp and tstat if you haven't before - if they are original they will fail soon and leave you stranded. Use only oem coolant.

Sounds like your Indy hasn't worked on many Bmw - gaskets will leak after high mileage on all Bmw but that's just the name of the game.

[nate16]

If you're near Boston, bring it to Eurotech Motorsports in Natick. Farley is a freaking wizard with BMW's, you won't be disapointed.

[theweebabySeamus]

Originally Posted by Jklad

Get a new gasket, and get a full set of new bolts - they are one time use. Also, replace both motor mounts while you are there, and replace one of the motor mounts with the upgraded 335is mount.

This is also a great time to do your wp and tstat if you haven't before - if they are original they will fail soon and leave you stranded. Use only oem coolant.

Sounds like your Indy hasn't worked on many Bmw - gaskets will leak after high mileage on all Bmw but that's just the name of the game.

Spot on. The oil pan gasket isn't really that bad if you can borrow a lift though.

[BostonMike]

"gaskets will leak after high mileage on all Bmw but that's just the name of the game."

Hmm, I didn't know it was typical of BMW. Especially such a tough and expensive job. Now I'm kind of wishing I sold it @ 100k when I had the chance. I have put $4100 into it since August. I love the car dearly, but it's costing me more than a new one!

Good idea on the motor mounts. There is a lot of things I should likely replace while we do this job. There is oil everywhere under there. The insulators for the secondary air pump are covered too.

[theweebabySeamus]

I feel your pain, I just did the oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket. A month later and I need to do the rear crank seal.

Definitely do the motor mounts, I wish I had.

[limitdown]

After 100k miles and being out of warranty, be prepared to dish out $15 to $20k for repairs over the next few years. You're only $4k in so you potentially have another $10k+ to go. Most of the <100k mile problems are well known and many are covered under warranty (injectors, HPFP,etc). Some people say that "the fun only begins after 100k miles".....

I've replaced and fixed so many things, that I'm too scared to list everything and add up all the cost. I'm not whining, just sharing my own true actual experience with an older (2007) 335i.

The engine's oil pan bolts are made out of aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion with the engine block. Six of my bolts broke during removal, so you should have a broken screw extractor ready. Torque must be precise to prevent breaking the new bolt while tightening.

While you're down there, check all of the hoses and pipes. The turbos’ coolant, oil supply and drain pipes are prone to failure at the flexible areas. I think you might only be able to reach the two drain pipes, as the other four pipes are really far up there.

If you haven’t done transmission servicing, then while down there, you might as well change your transmission pan/filter (filter is integrated into pan ), pan gasket, transmission fluid, sealing sleeve, mounts. The trans pan gasket also wears out like the engine oil pan gasket.

We were able to drain about 5 liters of ATF from the trans. About one liter was stuck in the torque converter and in nooks and crannies. After 1k miles my "new" fluid looked almost as bad as the original fluid. So I drained and filled again.

Also take a look at the flex disc/guibo/giubo to see if it's got any cracks or splits. It's a common failure point. There are too many conflicting reviews on aftermarket/upgraded flex discs so I just bought original OEM.

I agree with the above regarding replacing engine mounts. I went with a 335is mount for the right side (part # 22116793240) and the regular 335i mount on the left (22116760330)

My car is currently in the shop getting new vanos, cam and crank sensors...
I’ll leave my scary stories about my center shaft bearing, diff and half shafts (ie rear axle) for a future post.

[BostonMike]

Thanks for the responses guys! They are helpful. Limitdown, thanks for the part numbers too! I will order those as well. Do we have a preferred vendor for OEM parts here? I forget who I have ordered from in the past.

[Monster900]

Originally Posted by BostonMike

Thanks for the responses guys! They are helpful. Limitdown, thanks for the part numbers too! I will order those as well. Do we have a preferred vendor for OEM parts here? I forget who I have ordered from in the past.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-33.../Engine/Mount/

[xcusem3]

Originally Posted by limitdown

After 100k miles and being out of warranty, be prepared to have lay out $15 to $20k for repairs over the next few years. You're only $4k in so you potentially have another $10k+ to go. Most of the <100k mile problems are well known and many are covered under warranty (injectors, HPFP,etc). Some people say that "the fun only begins after 100k miles".....

I've replaced and fixed so many things, that I'm too scared to list everything and add up all the cost. I'm not whining, just sharing my own true actual experience with an older (2007) 335i.

The engine's oil pan bolts are made out of aluminum to prevent galvanic corrosion with the engine block. Six of my bolts broke during removal, so you should have a broken screw extractor ready. Torque must be precise to prevent breaking the new bolt while tightening.

While you're down there, check all of the hoses and pipes. The turbos’ coolant, oil supply and drain pipes are prone to failure at the flexible areas. I think you might only be able to reach the two drain pipes, as the other four pipes are really far up there.

If you haven’t done transmission servicing, then while down there, you might as well change your transmission pan/filter (filter is integrated into pan ), pan gasket, transmission fluid, sealing sleeve, mounts. The trans pan gasket also wears out like the engine oil pan gasket.

We were able to drain about 5 liters of ATF from the trans. About one liter was stuck in the torque converter and in nooks and crannies. After 1k miles my "new" fluid looked almost as bad as the original fluid. So I drained and filled again.

Also take a look at the flex disc/guibo/giubo to see if it's got any cracks or splits. It's a common failure point. There are too many conflicting reviews on aftermarket/upgraded flex discs so I just bought original OEM.

I agree with the above regarding replacing engine mounts. I went with a 335is mount for the right side (part # 22116793240) and the regular 335i mount on the left (22116760330)

My car is currently in the shop getting new vanos, cam and crank sensors...
I’ll leave my scary stories about my center shaft bearing, diff and half shafts (ie rear axle) for a future post.

At least I'm not the only one, I spent $5700 in 2015 on repairs alone. Same as you, a month after my oil pan gasket was replaced, the rear main seal went.. Now I'm fighting intermittent fuel pressure issues.
I think I'm in the same vote as many other members on here, I really should just sell the damn thing and buy something else but I've got so much $$ into the car it would be a shame to let her go now.. What to do

[theweebabySeamus]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

At least I'm not the only one, I spent $5700 in 2015 on repairs alone. Same as you, a month after my oil pan gasket was replaced, the rear main seal went.. Now I'm fighting intermittent fuel pressure issues.
I think I'm in the same vote as many other members on here, I really should just sell the damn thing and buy something else but I've got so much $$ into the car it would be a shame to let her go now.. What to do

Don't say that, I have a leaking rear main a month after my oil pan gasket was replaced and I don't want to have fuel pressure issues too!

[Sered]

Originally Posted by limitdown

After 100k miles and being out of warranty, be prepared to dish out $15 to $20k for repairs over the next few years. You're only $4k in so you potentially have another $10k+ to go. Most ............

I stopped reading here lol. 15k to 20k in repairs? Someone got taken to the cleaners. Seriously guys, learn to work on your car. Most of this stuff is cake. The oil pan gasket can be done on a garage floor in an afternoon. You can lower the subframe about 3-4 inches so long as you remove the v-brace and disconnect the motormounts (and brace the motor with a cross-brace -- $50 from harbor freight). Oil filter housing gasket? Takes maybe 2 hours tops. Rear main seals can be done in an afternoon (can do the clutch at the same time).

[Sered]

Originally Posted by Monster900

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-33.../Engine/Mount/

^^^ Seconded. I get all my parts here pretty much. Usually ships next day and arrives at my door 2 days later. Hard to beat considering they carry nearly all oem parts plus a bunch of tools for great prices, etc.