[Wilkz]

Running into issues and hoping someone hear can point me in the right direction. FBO running Cobb Stage 2+ FMIC. Car has been misfiring lately and has gotten worse. Stutters around 2k with light - medium throttle and 4th gear pulls have caused a CEL and a really rough ride. Had Autozone run the code and it came back p2096. CEL will go off sometimes. Car also seems to run stronger after a while with the check engine still on. I replaced the plugs about 1500k ago and CEL eventually went away but came back. Plugs had oil on the 1st 3. i'll attach a picture in a few.

I took it to an Indy and they've had it for the past week. They said the following codes were pulled: 2C31 2C27 29E0 29D1 29D2 29CC 2C78

Ended up doing a walnut blast and replacing the OFHG. Along with the alternator as they said it was overcharging.

As soon as I got the car back on the highway the same issue remains. Stuttering around 2k which led to the CEL. Now the CEL won't go off but it doesn't misfire as bad as it did when it came back on. I've driven it about 75 miles so far.

Shop thinks it's the tune with the catless dps but I've been running on this map for months now and the issues started only a few months ago. Ran fine on this map prior. Shop also said the chargepipe coupler is causing me to have a boost leak but I hold boost fine around 17 PSI.

What should I check next?


Edit: Forgot this in original post.

Cobb currently isn't working. Its a V2 and the cable isn't connecting to the AP. Common problem for this version apparently and Cobb sent me a form to fill out to send it to them to fix. So before I just had to hold it still while changing maps and I couldn't do logs. Now it won't come on at all. Unable to change the tune and I couldn't do logs since any movement would cause it to cut off.

I know this would be the next logical step but until I can get it back working and able to change tune/log, I was hoping I could get some insight.

[Antetokounmpo]

Well, just because you can hit 17psi, doesn't mean there isn't a boost leak. But it's also decently likely you don't have a leak since you hit 17psi. It would depend on how spool looks from a log to determine if there might be a leak. But that would cause it to run rich, if anything, not lean. Why don't you read the codes with your accessport? I'm pretty sure that'll read hidden codes. And of course do a log and report back. That's one of the main benefits to having a tune, logging.

[Wilkz]

Originally Posted by Heel Toe

Well, just because you can hit 17psi, doesn't mean there isn't a boost leak. But it's also decently likely you don't have a leak since you hit 17psi. It would depend on how spool looks from a log to determine if there might be a leak. But that would cause it to run rich, if anything, not lean. Why don't you read the codes with your accessport? I'm pretty sure that'll read hidden codes. And of course do a log and report back. That's one of the main benefits to having a tune, logging.

Sorry I knew I forgot something in the post.

Cobb currently isn't working. Its a V2 and the cable isn't connecting to the AP. Common problem for this version apparently and Cobb sent me a form to fill out to send it to them to fix. So before I just had to hold it still while changing maps and I couldn't do logs. Now it won't come on at all. Unable to change the tune and I couldn't do logs since any movement would cause it to cut off.

I know this would be the next logical step but until I can get it back working and able to change tune/log, I was hoping I could get some insight.

[Antetokounmpo]

I know the 29E0 code is common for bad injectors. I had 29E1 which is the same as 29E0 I believe except it's for bank 2. My cyl 5&6 injectors were leaking and replacing bank 2 with new injectors fixed the issue. Were the cyl 1-3 plugs fouled (black) when you pulled them?

[Wilkz]

Originally Posted by Heel Toe

I know the 29E0 code is common for bad injectors. I had 29E1 which is the same as 29E0 I believe except it's for bank 2. My cyl 5&6 injectors were leaking and replacing bank 2 with new injectors fixed the issue. Were the cyl 1-3 plugs fouled (black) when you pulled them?

here are the plugs. 1-6 with 1 being the most left plug.

Also, the codes bring up misfire for cyl 5 and 6.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Cobb isn't the problem. My money is on injectors and Valve cover gasket.

If you have more then 50K miles, it's time to replace.

[Wilkz]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Cobb isn't the problem. My money is on injectors and Valve cover gasket.

If you have more then 50K miles, it's time to replace.

Cyl 1 and 3 Injectors were replaced according to prev owner. But that's what I was thinking. I originally went in with the concern about the valve cover gasket.

[Antetokounmpo]

It certainly looks like a leaky vcg based on the amount of oil on the first 3 plugs. The plugs looks a little fouled too so leaky injectors are also pretty likely.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Wilkz

Cyl 1 and 3 Injectors were replaced according to prev owner. But that's what I was thinking. I originally went in with the concern about the valve cover gasket.

Unfortunately that doesn't mean much, unless it was very recently.

Injectors older then index 9 are not reliable and prone to failure.

The index is the last digits on the injector, you can verify what you have yourself, just pull the engine cover off.

Most people end up replacing all their injectors to the latest index -12. If you want a reliable car and plan on keeping it long term, just replace the injectors. You can get them considerably cheaper off rock auto . com. Dealer price is more then 2x otherwise. If you don't want all 6, you need to at least replace in bank 1-3 4-6.

While the fuel injectors are done, you mine as well do the valve cover gasket.

I personally ended up doing 6 plugs, 6 coils, 6 injectors and Valve cover and gasket at one time. Car ran like a champ and that was only 46K miles.

I had at least 3 tired injectors, one was really loud compared to the others (cyl 5).

I believe Cyl 3 and 4 had oil which was from leaking valve cover gasket and cracked valve cover.

So make sure the valve cover is inspected full at every last corner and area cause they are prone to crack.

[Wilkz]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Unfortunately that doesn't mean much, unless it was very recently.

Injectors older then index 9 are not reliable and prone to failure.

The index is the last digits on the injector, you can verify what you have yourself, just pull the engine cover off.

Most people end up replacing all their injectors to the latest index -12. If you want a reliable car and plan on keeping it long term, just replace the injectors. You can get them considerably cheaper off rock auto . com. Dealer price is more then 2x otherwise. If you don't want all 6, you need to at least replace in bank 1-3 4-6.

While the fuel injectors are done, you mine as well do the valve cover gasket.

I personally ended up doing 6 plugs, 6 coils, 6 injectors and Valve cover and gasket at one time. Car ran like a champ and that was only 46K miles.

I had at least 3 tired injectors, one was really loud compared to the others (cyl 5).

I believe Cyl 3 and 4 had oil which was from leaking valve cover gasket and cracked valve cover.

So make sure the valve cover is inspected full at every last corner and area cause they are prone to crack.

Yeah i'm not sure when he had them replaced or what index they are. I should have checked when I did the plugs. It does seem like the ticking noise got considerably louder under the hood now. Which I'm assuming are the injectors.

I have my extended warranty which from the fine print covers injectors and the VCG as well. I'm going to call the shop and see about having them look at it. If i can have them replace under warranty with little cost to me I'll go that route. But if not it doesn't seem like a hard DIY.

Thanks for the info!

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Wilkz

Yeah i'm not sure when he had them replaced or what index they are. I should have checked when I did the plugs. It does seem like the ticking noise got considerably louder under the hood now. Which I'm assuming are the injectors.

I have my extended warranty which from the fine print covers injectors and the VCG as well. I'm going to call the shop and see about having them look at it. If i can have them replace under warranty with little cost to me I'll go that route. But if not it doesn't seem like a hard DIY.

Thanks for the info!

Injectors are an easy swap. 5 min each but they need to be coded. Which means you need a cable, software and know-how to tell the computer you changed the injectors.

Good write up on DIY Injector replacement and coding here

The valve cover is not an easy job. It's a good 4 hour install. Took me even longer and I did it twice, albeit I did it methodically and not rushing.

Good write up on DIY Valve Cover Gasket / Replacement

[Antetokounmpo]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Injectors are an easy swap. 5 min each but they need to be coded. Which means you need a cable, software and know-how to tell the computer you changed the injectors.

Good write up on DIY Injector replacement and coding here

The valve cover is not an easy job. It's a good 4 hour install. Took me even longer and I did it twice, albeit I did it methodically and not rushing.

Good write up on DIY Valve Cover Gasket / Replacement

x2. Did all new injectors for $120 each and about 60 min start to finish.

[ferocity02]

First thing would be to flash back to stock. It probably won't fix the issue, but it's free to try.

After that, I'm guessing it's your coils. I had a similar experience. I got cylinder 3 misfires, and if I held on the gas long enough I threw a CEL and the engine shuts down that cylinder, leading to very lean and rough idle. Restart the engine and it's fine.

I would clear all of your codes and drive it again for as short of a period as possible, but enough to get the misfire to come back, then scan the codes. Whichever cylinder is misfiring, swap its coil with another cylinder, clear codes, and drive again. If the code follows the coil then its a bad coil.

If it's a bad coil, I would replace all 6. It's about $200 but worth it for peace of mind.