[BB_cuda]

9mm, for first question, answer was yes. I think Eve removes portions of the OEM tube assemblies and builds in between. He explains it above but it is sort of "in code". I have read and reread it. The pieces that connect to engine side (not cooler side) are retained and built upon. He explains how those pieces are removed.

[9mmkungfu]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

9mm, for first question, answer was yes. I think Eve removes portions of the OEM tube assemblies and builds in between. He explains it above but it is sort of "in code". I have read and reread it. The pieces that connect to engine side (not cooler side) are retained and built upon. He explains how those pieces are removed.

Ok, sounds good. I'm wondering if there is an ill effect to just blocking the coolant flow at these points.

[tomwh85]

I've just purchased the allard egr bypass, now what are my options?

Should I bypass the cooler or is it ok to leave in place?

[Owen81]

Were these kits ever put together?

[CO335D]

Originally Posted by tomwh85

I've just purchased the allard egr bypass, now what are my options?

Should I bypass the cooler or is it ok to leave in place?

You'll have to bypass the cooler. The Allard pipe does not have the band clamp area on the pipe for the cooler, so you'll have to make a full size block off plate for the exhaust side.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I'm wondering why do we need to do a coolant bypass. Can we just plug both ends and be done with it. Looking at a Advanced Diesel document, this EGR cooler is just a loop that should not affect anything. Has anyone experimented with just plugging instead of a bypass?

Digging this up from the grave ...

Was wanting to do this for awhile, but was going to wait until I changed coolant. Well, that happened today.

Made 2 "plugs" out of the OEM connectors (see attached) by cutting and taping them and using stainless bolts with RTV on the threads. Individually testing them with vacuum showed a leak proof seal, so went ahead and removed my "bypass" and used these as plugs.

Did 2 drive cycles today from cool to hot engine temps. So far so good with no leaks and no unusual engine temp behavior.

The original coolant fill looked pristine after ~65k miles. Sending a sample in to get analyzed. I didn't trust the "lifetime" coolant idea, but we'll see what the report says...

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

The original coolant fill looked pristine after ~65k miles. Sending a sample in to get analyzed. I didn't trust the "lifetime" coolant idea, but we'll see what the report says...

I was wondering when and if I'd need to do a coolant flush. Would be very interested in the analysis results.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by Mik325tds

I was wondering when and if I'd need to do a coolant flush. Would be very interested in the analysis results.

Not very familiar with analyzing coolant samples, but this appears to indicate the coolant was still in good condition after 5 yrs and 62,500 miles.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Not very familiar with analyzing coolant samples, but this appears to indicate the coolant was still in good condition after 5 yrs and 62,500 miles.

And here I thought you had 62,500 hours on your car Still impressive though.

[TDIwyse]

Originally Posted by iaknown

And here I thought you had 62,500 hours on your car Still impressive though.

Ha. Chuckle each time I prepare a sample to send in to the Cat lab as I think about the reaction the technician must have when he reads the description of the unit the fluid came out of ...

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by TDIwyse

Not very familiar with analyzing coolant samples, but this appears to indicate the coolant was still in good condition after 5 yrs and 62,500 miles.

Thanks TDI. That takes the pressure of the urge to change the fluid sooner rather than later.

[mlanes01]

So I've looked at this post in length, and when we say reversible, this isn't exactly simple, Im not sure what the coding entails, if its as simple as finding the module in NCS expert than I can definitely tackle that, however, switching back every two years for CA smog inspections may not be a realistic option for me. Im wondering if i should just invest in the walnut shell equipment etc... the DPF is my big worry at this moment, and the SCR catalyst which is clearly going to be problematic (it always wants to throw codes, replaced once after warranty). I think part of me realizes that new cars just aren't built to last 200+ miles anymore and I just need to get to 150 and sell. However, I did spend a lot of money on that car and would like to get my fair share of use out of it.

What is the estimated cost of the EGR delete kit, the DPF pass through system and estimated labor time?

do we know yet what modules need to be coded and what the parameters are? does the DDE need to be remapped since the air flow is going to be different?

Also, does this actually make a significant amount of difference? My thought is the intake is still going to get carbon fouled, just at a slower rate.

[BB_cuda]

Mlanes01, this thread is a sub piece of the overall emissions mods/deletes. We're discussing how some of us removed the EGR cooler and either cut on the OEM EGR valve or replaced with an aftermarket tube (allard is one example). We have beat to death the overall emissions in other thrwads. One of them had a title something like "alphabet soup". Just trying to get you to look there instead of us recreating the wheel here.

PM Iaknown about EGR block kit costs. If you're in Cali, I don't think the DPF and SCR deletes are feasible in terms of switching back for smog testing. I do agree that EGR deactivation and block doesn't completely rule out carbon fouling of intake. I'm still getting some oil in my throttle body even though I run a catch can. I may need to upgrade to Provent or look into VW TDI crowd's elephant hose. There is still some oil that can get introduced into intake tract from turbo seals themselves. Oil hanging out up in intake port will likely eventually get cooked down to cack and mess up inlet port flow. This last statement is my subjective opinion and others may disagree. I say this if you're not running meth injection. Meth inject appears to clean up the oil mess if you don't let it get too far.

Hooper, what's the current Cali philosophy on feasibility of deletes between smogs?

[J. Dub]

Is worrying about egr delete for you guys with diesel engines?

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by J. Dub

Is worrying about egr delete for you guys with diesel engines?

So what is the exact question?

In first row it is illegal, and some people on forum did it, only for off road use

[J. Dub]

Originally Posted by Lexx.md

So what is the exact question?

In first row it is illegal, and some people on forum did it, only for off road use

My mistake, I should have asked is the EGR delete ONLY for those with diesel engines or is it something for the n54 gasoline engine?

[Lexx.md]

Originally Posted by J. Dub

My mistake, I should have asked is the EGR delete ONLY for those with diesel engines or is it something for the n54 gasoline engine?

As i remember N54 it is a gasoline direct injected engine.
This kit most likely is diesel specific, as we have EGR system wich does not exist on gasoline, there might be Secondary air pump, which works only when you start the engine.

Anyway for N54 carbon build ups are made by oil vapor burning on the valves.
So first thing should be installing a oil catch can.

[BB_cuda]

J.Dub,
I've read of N54 engines having to be walnut shell blasted too. I'm pretty sure the M57 blaster setup is an adaptation of the N54 blaster set up. Just different tips to clean with. Don't know N54 architecture good enough to know if EGR is a part of carbon build up story.