[RSL]

The Hexon RR600's arrived a few weeks ago, but just got around to installing them and finally finished. Working a few hours a day over several days isn't optimal, but was the only way I had time right now.

The car has been running on them for a couple of days, just commuting, and I finally buttoned everything up (under body panels, engine cover, cowl, etc.) yesterday since everything seems good to go. I'm still on the stock turbo ~19psi map, so I haven't laid into it yet as the fuel system is still 100% stock.

I've only run 93 octane and only plan to run 93 octane for the foreseeable future, so don't expect any 600whp+ posts from me anytime soon. I'm not after pushing them to their limits or chasing the biggest numbers I can get. If I wanted that, I would've been running straight E85 and 25psi on the stock snails. I'm after reasonable power on 93 only, with room to spare if I decide to go E85 later. What can be reasonably had with them daily on 93 is precisely what I plan to find out. A LPFP will go in soon, but plan to run whatever the the stock fuel system will safely allow for the time being.

I planned to start logging and messing with it today, but the weather isn't cooperating (and doesn't look like it will tomorrow either), so I figured I'd at least post some pics for now...







Just because shiny:



Installed. Pretty straightforward to do, just time consuming.



Stock front inlet and RB replacement:



Stock rear inlet and RB replacement. The bolt on that aluminum bracket is a just a complete pain (holds the stock inlet on the turbo more or less). It sounds like the easiest thing to do is drop the sub-frame and lower the motor to give as much room as possible when installing rear inlets. I didn't remove the sub-frame during the install, but dropped the motor as low as it would go and it was an exercise in perseverance to get it done.

The best tips I got and can give without dropping the sub-frame is to use WD40 on the inlet (as opposed to soap) to help it slide through and also tie a wire around the turbo-side so it can be pulled from underneath in addition to being pushed from the top. An extra set of hands (that I didn't have), would likely go a long way also, but the easiest route does sound like simply dropping the sub-frame and lowering the motor further to create more space.



The blue electrical tape was to cover nicks on the tube from one of the many failed previous attempts to get it through. Once I got it through, the next hurdle was to get it on the rear turbo inlet, which required a pry bar and block of wood to push it on and hold it in place while I tightened the clamp.



The front inlet is a piece of cake:



About what my garage looked like for days:





Like it never even happened:



For now, the hoses from the stock DVs are just hanging since the connectors on the inlets don't accept them. I'll have to replace them with aftermarket DVs sooner rather than later. The whoosh is cool with them disconnected, but not my really my thing anymore.



More coming as I start logging and it's re-tuned. Once things get dialed in, I will try to hit a dyno before it's 115F out here...

[Grand_hustle17]

#subscribed

[TrAcK TRaP]

Congrats..

[N54Society]

Badass! Thanks for the pictures. They're really helpful. Congrats on the completion.

[Dmak]

Great. Keep us updated. If I every get upgraded twin, I only plan on running pump 93 since I m in canada.

[BQTuning]

Congrats....


Word of advice though, make sure to buckle the front inlet to the radiator frame. I hav seen on numerous cars, including my own cars, the inlets will sag dropping near to the pulley

A large hose clamp should do the trick

[Grand_hustle17]

Any plans to dyno or 1/4??

[RSL]

Thanks everyone! It was quite a project, glad it's done. I'm even more glad there were no coolant or oil leaks when I fired it up the first time, I was sweating it LOL

Originally Posted by BuraQ

Congrats....


Word of advice though, make sure to buckle the front inlet to the radiator frame. I hav seen on numerous cars, including my own cars, the inlets will sag dropping near to the pulley

A large hose clamp should do the trick

Thanks for the heads up Dimitri, already done. I had a large releasable tie strap from something else that I used to strap it to the fan frame, slightly tugging it up and away from the pulleys. It was pretty close once I pulled it all the way up the AFE tube, so not much margin for error on sagging or movement and I didn't want to worry about it.

Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17

Any plans to dyno or 1/4??

I will make every attempt to dyno, but they are far and few in between here, especially Dynojets (I'm only aware of 1). Once a tune gets settled in, I'll call and see what the wait time for a Saturday is, but can hopefully have it done in the next 2-3 weeks.

I'd like to get back to the track as some point, but the closest track is 2 hours away and I'd basically have to take a day off work to make it, which isn't in the cards for a while.

[RSL]

I guess I can bump this. I've been fighting consistent low RPM timing corrections for 2 weeks. Well, it's been 2 weeks, but rained for a week of it that couldn't do anything.

This was actually a "not too bad" log as far as they went. Most of them were really ugly.


I think it's pretty well cleaned up now, leaned back out and except for an occasional early correction on 1-2 cylinders, stays clean. There are a few more things I want to mess with, but am itching to get rid of the lame timing and get this thing going.

The odd thing about them was they almost always happened after spool mode ended, but was adjustments in spool mode tables that knocked them down.

http://datazap.me/u/rsl/correction-t...-26&zoom=39-78

More to come...

[Riceball777]

Looks great. I need new turbo soon and I don't know if I should go with theses of the new rb turbos. I can't wait to see your Dyno on straight pump gas.

[Flex68]

Hexons are very sexy

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by RSL

I guess I can bump this. I've been fighting consistent low RPM timing corrections for 2 weeks. Well, it's been 2 weeks, but rained for a week of it that couldn't do anything.

This was actually a "not too bad" log as far as they went. Most of them were really ugly.


I think it's pretty well cleaned up now, leaned back out and except for an occasional early correction on 1-2 cylinders, stays clean. There are a few more things I want to mess with, but am itching to get rid of the lame timing and get this thing going.

The odd thing about them was they almost always happened after spool mode ended, but was adjustments in spool mode tables that knocked them down.

http://datazap.me/u/rsl/correction-t...-26&zoom=39-78

More to come...

You are on pump fuel correct? Then I wouldn't worry about, especially if it is mostly cylinder 5, which tends to nosier than others for whatever reason (knock sensors placement, harmonics???). These cars have pretty sensitive knock sensors, and I have even seen timing corrections caused by the vibrations from solid engine mounts.

Btw, how's the throttle response with these stage 2 turbos and upgraded inlets. Personally, I wouldn't want to make the throttle response any worse than the stock turbos, so just wondering if the inlets help at all, or should I just stay with stage 1 or 1.5 turbos with smaller turbines.

[RSL]

Yes, 93 only. Still playing in the spool tables and I'll probably jinx myself saying this, but I can't get it to correct now lol That's not quite true, cyl 1 corrected twice, but running the same or more timing than it was in the above screenshot now.

Throttle response has no different feel than stock turbos to me, but easily adjusted. Tweaking the torque request tables, it can be just as jumpy, which I don't like. I had it set pretty high for a while on sport mode and any attempt to slowly pull away from a stop was like launching at the drag strip.

A lot of people seem interested in 1500-2500rpm performance. The only time I'm even remotely below 2000rpm is 60mph or less in 7th gear. Are people really mashing it that low in 3rd or 4th gears? I don't even bother to tune there unless it's cruising related. It would be physically impossible for stage 2s to spool as quickly as stockers at such a high load and low flow, but I'm sure with tuning for it, they'd be pretty close.

I'm still messing with spool tables, so plenty more to come...

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by RSL

Yes, 93 only. Still playing in the spool tables and I'll probably jinx myself saying this, but I can't get it to correct now lol That's not quite true, cyl 1 corrected twice, but running the same or more timing than it was in the above screenshot now.

Throttle response has no different feel than stock turbos to me, but easily adjusted. Tweaking the torque request tables, it can be just as jumpy, which I don't like. I had it set pretty high for a while on sport mode and any attempt to slowly pull away from a stop was like launching at the drag strip.

A lot of people seem interested in 1500-2500rpm performance. The only time I'm even remotely below 2000rpm is 60mph or less in 7th gear. Are people really mashing it that low in 3rd or 4th gears? I don't even bother to tune there unless it's cruising related. It would be physically impossible for stage 2s to spool as quickly as stockers at such a high load and low flow, but I'm sure with tuning for it, they'd be pretty close.

I'm still messing with spool tables, so plenty more to come...

Is your load request table still untouched from stock? If yes, you might want to linearize it, think that should help on the problem you are describing.

Might be worth a while to give JB4 a try just for the wastegate control to simplify matters on that end.

[RSL]

No, they're not stock and at that time, low was increased from stock down low. It was...responsive lol