[Twnturbofanatic]

Going to tackle the install on the supreme lowering perches this weekend. I'm unable to locate any diy instructions and my set didn't come with any as I bought them second hand. Does anyone have any tips for the install?

[Makeuwunder]

Originally Posted by Twnturbofanatic

Does anyone have any tips for the install?

The video below is for coil overs but the process is the same
Start at 9min mark for front.

Use this strut spring compressor. It has safety pins and will compress it enough to remove the strut. Make sure you torque the top hat bolt to the right torque or it will make noise.



1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging.

2) Remove the wheels.

3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link’s upper joint (as well as the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench.

4) Remove the inner fender liner in order to access the forward control arm bushing through-bolt.

5) Loosen the forward control arm through-bolt. Do not remove the bolt.

6) Loosen the rearward control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. Do not remove the bolt and nut.

7) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the opposite side (some models do not use nuts; the bolt threads into the clamp).

8) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside.

9) Disconnect the wires and hose from the chassis bracket and the chassis wiring harness plugs, inside the connector box.

10) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors may only be present on one side of the vehicle.

11) Dismount the brake caliper from the caliper mounting bracket. Remove the caliper and hang it inside the wheel well area using a wire or stretch cord.

12) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed.

13) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body (strut tower), under the hood.

14) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-12, and lower the strut assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the wedge into the split in the clamp (from the top). This will widen the clamp and allow the strut to be removed.

15) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from the wheel well area.

16) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly. Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved from the upper and lower spring seats.

16) Remove the upper shock/strut nut that is at the top of the assembly. you can use an impact gun. DO NOT use an impact gun for re-assembly!

17) Once the nut is removed, disassemble the upper mount, upper spring perch and washers from the shock’s piston rod. Keep track of the various washers and their locations.

18) Pull the spring (and compressor) off of the shock/strut.

19) Release the compression on the spring compressor and remove the spring and the upper spring plate.

20) Remove the stock perch and Install the lowering perch onto the spring. DO NOT use the rubber ring from the old perch

21) Assemble the perch and the spring into the compressor and compress the assembly as before.

22) Install the spring and compressor assembly onto the shock.

23) Align the shock upper shaft with the hole in the upper spring plate, while also aligning the spring with the spring seat.

24) Install the upper mount, using the same washers that were originally installed between the upper spring perch and the upper mount.

25) Install the upper mount securing nut (and washer, if applicable). Tighten the nut using the combination of tools to hold the shock shaft and turn the nut.

26) Begin detensioning the spring compressor while watching the spring alignment on the spring seat.

27) Once the compressor is fully detensioned and the spring is sitting properly and fully on the upper and lower seats, remove the compressor.

28) The assembly is now ready to install into the vehicle.

29) Reverse the removal procedures to install the strut and spring assembly into the vehicle.

30) Repeat steps for the other side.

Credit to Bavauto for most of the write up.

[feuer]

+^ on all other than the spring compressor toll. Those are the worse. Single shaft type with two horse shoe shape clapms works the best.
Additionally, the replacing the spring perch or the strut mount removing of the whole strut is not necessary. Just compress the spring, pull assemnly out of the wheel well, remove the shaft nut, remove strut mount and perch, reinstall with the new parts.

[avocet]

There have been issues with the spring not seating properly into the hat properly causing rubbing and squeaking. One thing I did during my install was to make sure the spring was seated and 'twisted' onto the hat so it was tight and would minimize movement.

Good luck with install!

[feuer]

Bigger problem is the strut mount and spring hitting each other. I will take and post photos later. Especially common with worn out strut mounts.

[feuer]

These mounts have been removed due to interference with the SP lowering perches. I have discuss this in other threads. SP will never aknowledge this issue. The perch and the mount will colide under heavy cornering causig the steering to temporarily jam up. Take a look:

[expressfish]

I had that issue to with worn top hats. I ordered new top hats and my rubbing problem went away. No squeaks or issues. Double labor on my part but its part of the learning process for a do it yourselfer.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by expressfish

I had that issue to with worn top hats. I ordered new top hats and my rubbing problem went away. No squeaks or issues. Double labor on my part but its part of the learning process for a do it yourselfer.

What I hold is brand new part.