[mfish123]

I'm running my own custom MHD, flash only tune with some help from various forum members and a lot of trial and error.

I'm FBO with RB inlets running 93 octane. I don't think my boost curve is insanely high for my mods and fuel but am a little concerned about the WGDC %.

I have 60K on the odometer and tuned for 20K. The 6 things I'm thinking are:

- My WGDC % is about right all things considered
- I'm running my turbos to the ragged edge of what I can extract out of them and if I want to have a lower WGDC % I'd have to lower my load/boost targets
- Its too high due to a boost leak
- Its high because I've been beating on my turbos and they have to now work harder due to the hard life I've put them through
- My mechanic didn't remove the firewall insulation like I asked, and the inlet that snakes behind the engine is "squished" and I have to physically correct the install
- F it - I'm hitting 60+% WGDC@ 6,000 RPM so I might as well run even more boost out to redline

If anyone can give me some feedback based on the below 2 logs I'd appreciate it

2nd to 3rd example 1: http://datazap.me/u/mfish123/2nd-3rd...g=4-16-21-25-8

2nd to 3rd example 2: http://datazap.me/u/mfish123/2nd-3rd...g=4-16-21-25-8

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by mfish123

I'm running my own custom MHD, flash only tune with some help from various forum members and a lot of trial and error.

I'm FBO with RB inlets running 93 octane. I don't think my boost curve is insanely high for my mods and fuel but am a little concerned about the WGDC %.

I have 60K on the odometer and tuned for 20K. The 6 things I'm thinking are:

- My WGDC % is about right all things considered
- I'm running my turbos to the ragged edge of what I can extract out of them and if I want to have a lower WGDC % I'd have to lower my load/boost targets
- Its too high due to a boost leak
- Its high because I've been beating on my turbos and they have to now work harder due to the hard life I've put them through
- My mechanic didn't remove the firewall insulation like I asked, and the inlet that snakes behind the engine is "squished" and I have to physically correct the install
- F it - I'm hitting 60+% WGDC@ 6,000 RPM so I might as well run even more boost out to redline

If anyone can give me some feedback based on the below 2 logs I'd appreciate it

2nd to 3rd example 1: http://datazap.me/u/mfish123/2nd-3rd...g=4-16-21-25-8

2nd to 3rd example 2: http://datazap.me/u/mfish123/2nd-3rd...g=4-16-21-25-8

I'm custom tuned hitting 60% WGDC with no issues here. RB's FBO + inlets.

http://datazap.me/u/fmonteiro444/4-1...0&data=3-19-27

edit: I just realized you are running pretty low boost vs actual WGDC. Something's definitely not right here.

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by fmonteiro444

I'm custom tuned hitting 60% WGDC with no issues here. RB's FBO + inlets.

http://datazap.me/u/fmonteiro444/4-1...0&data=3-19-27

edit: I just realized you are running pretty low boost vs actual WGDC. Something's definitely not right here.

I'm on the stock turbos. Is my WGDC % too high considering my boost levels and the fact I'm on the stock turbos?

Any suggestions as to what to look into?

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by mfish123

I'm on the stock turbos. Is my WGDC % too high considering my boost levels and the fact I'm on the stock turbos?

Any suggestions as to what to look into?

I saw RB and I thought you had Hybrids. I would say it is slightly higher than it should be.

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by fmonteiro444

I saw RB and I thought you had Hybrids. I would say it is slightly higher than it should be.

No prob. By slightly you mean like a small boost leak or partially squished inlet tube, as opposed to a failing turbo on its last leg?

[muncie21]

The boost versus boost target doesn't look good, you're well under target and slow to build boost. I'm no expert, but I'd think there is either a boost leak, your wastegates are shot or turbos are tired.

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by mfish123

No prob. By slightly you mean like a small boost leak or partially squished inlet tube, as opposed to a failing turbo on its last leg?

Originally Posted by muncie21

The boost versus boost target doesn't look good, you're well under target and slow to build boost. I'm no expert, but I'd think there is either a boost leak, your wastegates are shot or turbos are tired.

Spool up looks fine for older stock turbos. I think you just need a custom tune due to the inlets. If you look at P-Factor in the log, it goes super positive in the higher RPMs and boost starts to drop.

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by fmonteiro444

Spool up looks fine for older stock turbos. I think you just need a custom tune due to the inlets. If you look at P-Factor in the log, it goes super positive in the higher RPMs and boost starts to drop.

Could be tune related. I don't claim to be an expert.

Just checked every hose clamp on the intake tract and some weren't that tight. They're all nice and snug now.

Also, the mechanic had installed the inlets did a poor job. He only charged $350 but I guess I get what I pay for.

Front turbo inlet clamp was just swaying in the wind - its now tight. And although I told him to, he didn't remove the stock bracket behind the rear turbo inlet or remove any of the firewall insulation. I wasn't able to get in there to make more room with hand tools.

I'll see if tightening hose clamps help and then will get the bracket and insulation on the firewall removed by the rear inlet squish area shortly. If logs improve I'll know its hardware. If not I'll try a custom tune. If logs still don't look good then its in all likelihood tired turbos and/or wastegates.

Does anyone know how critical it is to remove the bracket and firewall insulation behind the rear turbo inlet? Hard to see in there to see how bad it is squished in such a tight area.

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by mfish123

Could be tune related. I don't claim to be an expert.

Just checked every hose clamp on the intake tract and some weren't that tight. They're all nice and snug now.

Also, the mechanic had installed the inlets did a poor job. He only charged $350 but I guess I get what I pay for.

Front turbo inlet clamp was just swaying in the wind - its now tight. And although I told him to, he didn't remove the stock bracket behind the rear turbo inlet or remove any of the firewall insulation. I wasn't able to get in there to make more room with hand tools.

I'll see if tightening hose clamps help and then will get the bracket and insulation on the firewall removed by the rear inlet squish area shortly. If logs improve I'll know its hardware. If not I'll try a custom tune. If logs still don't look good then its in all likelihood tired turbos and/or wastegates.

Does anyone know how critical it is to remove the bracket and firewall insulation behind the rear turbo inlet? Hard to see in there to see how bad it is squished in such a tight area.

I can tell you right now that you can not run an OTS map with inlets.

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by fmonteiro444

Spool up looks fine for older stock turbos. I think you just need a custom tune due to the inlets. If you look at P-Factor in the log, it goes super positive in the higher RPMs and boost starts to drop.

Regardless of tune, wouldn't the relationship of WGDC % to actual boost indicate a hardware issue?

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by mfish123

Regardless of tune, wouldn't the relationship of WGDC % to actual boost indicate a hardware issue?

I believe it would indicate a boost leak.

[dreyo27]

since someone did a shitty job with inlets, I would check your vacuum lines from pump to solenoids to wastegates.

how old are your turbos?

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by fmonteiro444

I believe it would indicate a boost leak.

I'm gong to go to a different mechanic to have my car tested for boost and vacuum leaks

[mfish123]

Originally Posted by dreyo27

since someone did a shitty job with inlets, I would check your vacuum lines from pump to solenoids to wastegates.

how old are your turbos?

I hear ya - Wouldn't surprise me if they damaged vacuum lines during the install. I have 59K on the odometer. I bought the car with 39K. It was bone stock when I bought it and an xdrive, automatic without the sport package so I'm pretty confident the first owner ran it stock. I can't be 100% certain as I bought it from a dealership used, and its possible the first owner returned it to stock before selling it to the dealership.

I've had it tuned since I got so at minimum its been tuned for 20K miles. Anything is possible but I'm leaning toward boost or vaccuum leak or squished rear inlet tube as opposed to failing turbos at my mileage.

Once I have the boost and vacuum leak test done I can narrow this down.

Also, I'm on the stock diverter valves (was able to rig them up with silicone hose and brass tubes to the inlets and those hose clamps are nice and tight). The diverter valves could be starting to leak but if they were wouldn't that show up more in the midrange when I'm making more boost than I am in the upper RPM's?

[dreyo27]

Originally Posted by mfish123

I hear ya - Wouldn't surprise me if they damaged vacuum lines during the install. I have 59K on the odometer. I bought the car with 39K. It was bone stock when I bought it and an xdrive, automatic without the sport package so I'm pretty confident the first owner ran it stock. I can't be 100% certain as I bought it from a dealership used, and its possible the first owner returned it to stock before selling it to the dealership.

I've had it tuned since I got so at minimum its been tuned for 20K miles. Anything is possible but I'm leaning toward boost or vaccuum leak or squished rear inlet tube as opposed to failing turbos at my mileage.

Once I have the boost and vacuum leak test done I can narrow this down.

Also, I'm on the stock diverter valves (was able to rig them up with silicone hose and brass tubes to the inlets and those hose clamps are nice and tight). The diverter valves could be starting to leak but if they were wouldn't that show up more in the midrange when I'm making more boost than I am in the upper RPM's?

Yep i dont think its the diverter valve.