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      05-04-2016, 01:02 AM   #1
blau808
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Engine shuddering, misfires, code 29f3

Possible culprits are fuel sensor or injectors or so i've gathered from searching. Codes 29f3 (low pressure fuel sensor) , 29d1 (misfire), 29d2 (misfire), 29cc (lots of misfires) and 2ad0. Attached is a log at idle. 92oct gas, nothing special.

Was running MHD tune Stage 1+ but flashed back to stock and still have the same issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

http://www.datazap.me/u/blau808/log-...og=0&data=4-24

Last edited by blau808; 05-04-2016 at 01:20 AM..
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      05-04-2016, 06:24 PM   #2
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I'm betting on one or more bad injectors. Pull your plugs and look/smell for gas. Good idea to replace the plugs too, if you find one or more gas fouled ones.
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      05-04-2016, 06:43 PM   #3
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leaking injector on Bank 2
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      05-04-2016, 08:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuraQ View Post
leaking injector on Bank 2
Can you see this from the log? Wouldn't surprise me since I had taken it in before and the dealership only replaced Bank 1.
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      05-04-2016, 08:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blau808 View Post
Can you see this from the log? Wouldn't surprise me since I had taken it in before and the dealership only replaced Bank 1.
yes you can see it, look at bank 2 AFR how it deviates rich by more than 1 AFR significantly from bank 1 . Also, the DME is pulling fuel trims on the same bank 2 maxing it out in the negative.

Your going to want to change your oil, plugs check (perhaps replaced) also, after you get this fixed make sure to check that all you injectors are coded correctly.
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      05-04-2016, 08:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuraQ View Post
yes you can see it, look at bank 2 AFR how it deviates rich by more than 1 AFR significantly from bank 1 . Also, the DME is pulling fuel trims on the same bank 2 maxing it out in the negative.

Your going to want to change your oil, plugs check (perhaps replaced) also, after you get this fixed make sure to check that all you injectors are coded correctly.
Appreciate the advice, will I be able to drive it to the shop like this or should I tow it? 10 mile trip
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      05-04-2016, 08:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blau808 View Post
Appreciate the advice, will I be able to drive it to the shop like this or should I tow it? 10 mile trip
Hehehe........... tow it, its cheaper than having something catastrophic happen. Dont ride the problem that will spawn other problems.
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      05-04-2016, 09:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuraQ View Post
leaking injector on Bank 2
Great observation! In retrospect this makes sense, but I wouldn't have thought of looking at trims and O2s to find the issue, kudos BuraQ
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      05-04-2016, 09:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuraQ View Post
Hehehe........... tow it, its cheaper than having something catastrophic happen. Dont ride the problem that will spawn other problems.
Yeah you're right, will call for a tow. Dealership says injectors still covered for 10 years 120k miles so hopefully they will foot the bill. Thanks again.
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      05-07-2016, 05:04 PM   #10
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Update on this. Towed it to stealership. Charges $165 just to tell me the codes I already know, then tells me $1600 to fix the fuel pump sensor as a first step. Maybe Ill try to do it myself.
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      05-07-2016, 06:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blau808
Update on this. Towed it to stealership. Charges $165 just to tell me the codes I already know, then tells me $1600 to fix the fuel pump sensor as a first step. Maybe Ill try to do it myself.
That sensor is a $100 part that takes 1.5-2 hours to replace. Tell them to get bent.

Edit: if you have an older car, they may be requiring that you update the fuel line as well. I think This would add 30 min tops to the labor.
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      05-07-2016, 06:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blau808 View Post
Update on this. Towed it to stealership. Charges $165 just to tell me the codes I already know, then tells me $1600 to fix the fuel pump sensor as a first step. Maybe Ill try to do it myself.
...as a first step?! Sooo they're not 100% if that's the culprit or not. Do yourself a favor and pull the plugs yourself on bank 2 and check for fuel leaking into them. If so then demand they replace the injectors under that extended warranty, the lpfs should be a diy I thought
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      05-07-2016, 10:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
That sensor is a $100 part that takes 1.5-2 hours to replace. Tell them to get bent.

Edit: if you have an older car, they may be requiring that you update the fuel line as well. I think This would add 30 min tops to the labor.
Fuel line? Do you mean the rail running along driver's side the the fuel lines from injectors connect to?
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      05-08-2016, 08:33 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwebb335xi View Post
Fuel line? Do you mean the rail running along driver's side the the fuel lines from injectors connect to?
The line the sensor is connected to (under the intake) was updated. When ordering the new sensor, this line is now included. This is why there was a 2x increase in the replacement cost of the sensor (pre/post line update) as the older sensor did not include the redesigned fuel line.
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      05-08-2016, 09:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muncie21
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwebb335xi View Post
Fuel line? Do you mean the rail running along driver's side the the fuel lines from injectors connect to?
The line the sensor is connected to (under the intake) was updated. When ordering the new sensor, this line is now included. This is why there was a 2x increase in the replacement cost of the sensor (pre/post line update) as the older sensor did not include the redesigned fuel line.
Makes sense; thanks!
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      05-09-2016, 04:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black n54is View Post
...as a first step?! Sooo they're not 100% if that's the culprit or not. Do yourself a favor and pull the plugs yourself on bank 2 and check for fuel leaking into them. If so then demand they replace the injectors under that extended warranty, the lpfs should be a diy I thought
Yeah this is was a good idea. I told them to pull the damn plugs and smell them for fuel. Still waiting on word...
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      05-12-2016, 08:18 PM   #17
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Final solution:

Dealer refused to pull sparkplugs until the sensor code was gone, so took it to another shop who replaced the sensor for $400. I probably could have done it myself and saved some money but didnt have the time. Problem solved for now, wasnt the injectors (yet) although he told me I had a lot of carbon buildup so suggested using Seafoam or a walnut blast later on.
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      05-13-2016, 10:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blau808 View Post
Final solution:

Dealer refused to pull sparkplugs until the sensor code was gone, so took it to another shop who replaced the sensor for $400. I probably could have done it myself and saved some money but didnt have the time. Problem solved for now, wasnt the injectors (yet) although he told me I had a lot of carbon buildup so suggested using Seafoam or a walnut blast later on.
I had walnut done at about 70k miles. I immediately noticed the car running smoother. I did that in anticipation of tuning the car, but even if I didn't plan to tune it and I had another N54, I do it proactively. Makes a pretty tremendous difference...
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