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Boost Slow to Build - Datazap Log
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| 05-25-2016, 01:54 PM | #1 |
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Boost Slow to Build - Datazap Log
My boost seems really slow to build lately. See attached log and let me know what you think. Boost solenoids or boost leak? No codes at all just very slow to build.
It is worth noting that I am at 103k miles and on the original boost solenoids. Could Vanos solenoids be causing this as well? Also on the original Vanos solenoids. Should probably just go ahead and change them both out. http://datazap.me/u/jstang/post-inje...0&data=2-14-15 Last edited by JStang; 05-25-2016 at 03:36 PM.. |
| 05-25-2016, 05:05 PM | #2 |
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Do you have a before and after log? Maybe it's your tuner? Here's my E50 map with BuraQ. http://datazap.me/u/lumikuke/3-apr-2...10-11-12-13-24
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Last edited by Bimmer 808; 05-25-2016 at 05:12 PM.. Reason: Found the tune. |
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| 05-25-2016, 05:37 PM | #3 | |
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335i e92 TPC 19Ts
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| 05-26-2016, 07:25 AM | #4 | |
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| 05-26-2016, 07:48 AM | #5 |
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| 05-26-2016, 08:35 AM | #6 |
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On just about almost all IA80S cars I have experienced similar characteristics with boost. Seems to be more prominent on cars with original turbos.
It can be tuning related ie it can be improved and adjusted in the tune. Will post couple of logs as an example when I get behind a computer Last edited by BQTuning; 05-26-2016 at 08:50 AM.. |
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| 05-26-2016, 10:14 AM | #7 |
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I have been experiencing something similar; under target until close to 4k except my wgdc is 99% leading up to it. Checked solenoids with JB4 and replaced vacuum lines, adjusted the rear actuator arm, and even disconnected catback briefly as I've read this can be due to clogged secondaries with no real difference in spool. Interested in this as well.
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| 05-26-2016, 10:43 AM | #8 |
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I'm having issues with this once my car is fully warmed up. But then again my IAT's are around 100 something in Cali. I'm off of target by 3 psi when the turbos begin to taper, so I'm replacing my solenoids as I'm in original solenoids with 88k. Debating on removing the vac canisters as well just to play around and see what happens. Also on original turbos. 07 e92.
My Log: http://datazap.me/u/puppydax/v4-e50?log=0&data=4-6-23 I just noticed that my boost isn't as slow to build, so I'm not sure anymore. Interested to see BuraQs advice.
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| 05-26-2016, 03:05 PM | #9 |
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So here is before
http://datazap.me/u/buraq/sample-bog...-99&mark=18-29 and here is after http://datazap.me/u/buraq/sample-bog...119&mark=32-43 Still not done with it yet....... The tuning part is the best way to check first before going to get new boost and VANOS solenoids . However though with that type of mileage I would be replacing solenoids regardless. |
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| 05-26-2016, 03:30 PM | #10 | |
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Previous: 2007 E90 335i | 2008 E92 335i | 2009 E82 135i Current: '25 ///M2 Portimao Blue |
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| 05-26-2016, 04:24 PM | #11 |
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The log in the OP was from dzenno's tune. I switched to Jakes yesterday and today I got a 30ff code for the first time. was only hitting about 6 PSI so something is definitely going on. I will investigate this weekend and report back.
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| 05-26-2016, 05:20 PM | #12 | |
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On insoecting the old turbos, front wg needed 5 turns to close. Rear one was equally bad but i had it adjusted earlier.
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335i e92 TPC 19Ts
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| 05-26-2016, 06:42 PM | #13 |
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"Fixing" mechanical problems with tuning bandaids doesn't sound like fixing anything to me. And I8A0S cars naturally have more under boost problems, they are the oldest ones out there.
Sounds like you're going in the right direction though OP. |
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| 05-26-2016, 06:45 PM | #14 | |
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| 05-26-2016, 07:22 PM | #15 | ||
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| 05-26-2016, 07:28 PM | #16 | |||
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| 05-27-2016, 07:23 AM | #17 |
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103k on the original vacuum lines? I'll bet they are dry rotted. I'd start with those and solenoids, like you said, before looking at turdbos
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| 05-31-2016, 08:36 AM | #18 |
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I visually inspected all of the vacuum lines and didn't see any issues but I will still replace them. Boost solenoids are on order and I should have them in this weekend.
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| 05-31-2016, 03:01 PM | #19 | |
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Be careful when you're removing the old vacuum lines; they get stuck on nipple connectors. If you yank and pry to aggressively, you may break the nipples on the vacuum canisters, diverters, etc. I sliced mine open and pulled/pried and still managed to break one connection at the vacuum canister ($20 and a trip to dealer to replace it).. Having a razor and pick handy will help things go quickly. Good luck!
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| 06-01-2016, 07:29 AM | #21 |
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| 06-01-2016, 09:06 AM | #22 |
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keep us posted
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