Boost Leak

cahme · 05-23-2016, 10:49 PM

This is my first turbo car which I picked up in Oct of last year. It was stock when I bought it and pretty much immediately added a CP & JB4 to an otherwise stock car. All my logs prior to May have shown no indication of any issues (ie boost met target).

In May, I've developed a bit of a boost leak. I've mostly babied the car on map 0 since then as I've not had alot of time to investigate, but I did get a 2C57 code once with the half engine. I can hear the leak when driving with windows down. It sounds to me the leak is from the passenger side and I never hear the DV releasing pressure at all anymore.

The only thing I've messed with around this time-frame is a coolant flush in which I did pull the FMIC to get to drain the WP. I have since double checked the FMIC connections and they are solid. I also checked all of the obvious connections (CP, vacuum) and couldn't see anything obvious as well as sprayed starter fluid at various points with no difference.

My plan is to buy one of these leak testers:
http://turboboostleaktesters.com/bmw...bo-twin-power/

Anybody have experiences or reasons not to go this route?

I've logged some 2'nd gear pulls (paranoid to make 3'rd gear pulls and don't see how it would help). Here are the datazap links and I've got the JB4 screen shots attached:
Map 1 Datazap
Map 4 Datazap

Is there anything obvious here, or other advise?

EDIT 7/31/16: It turns out my problem was a blown Diverter Valve. See this thread for more details & pics

cahme · 06-11-2016, 07:14 PM

Here's an update and I could really use some experienced opinions.

I did buy the leak tester, but didn't really find anything. At about 5psi, it would leak out the intake pipe at the turbo intake (ie un-compressed side). I still checked as best as I could by sound and with soapy water, but couldn't find any leaks other than the turbo intake. It did also hold pressure pretty well and did leak down at less than 1 psi per sec.

I also checked all of the hot-side and cold-side piping. I reset both FMIC connections and verified the o-rings and loosened and re-tightened the lower CP to upper CP couplings and didn't notice anything loose or wrong.

After this I did get a few more 2C57 codes after what felt and sounded like no boost being generated at all.

Today, I've swapped in a new boost solenoid and completely pulled the cold side piping out of the car for an easier check.

Upon testing, I could still hear the leak and I did get higher boost levels but still not to target. The map 4 pull was pretty close to target (about 1 psi off) and the next map1 pulls were back to 2-3 psi off.

My thoughts now are:
- the cold side piping is very solid and all of the stock connections are connected as designed
- While the clips are engaged, there seems to be more "slop" than I'd expect at the turbo outlet, but all clips are secure and I could find no cracks and all o-rings are properly installed
- At this point, I'm considering going with GFB DV+ and then maybe a VRSF FMIC with the upgraded hot side lower CP.

Any thoughts?

weehe126 · 06-11-2016, 10:45 PM

What CP did you buy and did you change firmware on the JB4 at all? Does the CP have a meth bung?

cahme · 06-12-2016, 09:15 AM

Firmware is 5.9 and has been since I installed it in Nov. CP is VRSF and yes it does have one meth bung; I'll check it today.

The other two things I forgot to mention I find odd is:
1) My PWM isn't maxed. Most boost leak logs I've seen has the PWM maxed
2) My AFR isn't rich. If I'm leaking 3psi of boost, I'd expect to be running at least a little on the rich side. This is another reason I think my DV is leaking.

Cory S · 06-12-2016, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cahme

2) My AFR isn't rich. If I'm leaking 3psi of boost, I'd expect to be running at least a little on the rich side. This is another reason I think my DV is leaking.

The DME will target commanded AFR's. If there's a small boost leak, the DME will still be able to reach target AFR's through STFT's etc.

weehe126 · 06-12-2016, 12:17 PM

post a picture of your user adjustments tab. You probably have something messed with with duty bias

JETmn · 06-13-2016, 12:27 PM

I would check your CP connections. O-ring on the CP is in good shape? Clamp is properly tightened? Always start with the things you have changed and once you have eliminated them then move on.

cahme · 06-15-2016, 11:21 PM

Haven't really had time this week to do much.

I've reset user settings to the settings as seen on the n55 ISO thread @ n54tech.

I believe the boost solenoid was a problem. I still have an audible boost leak and I never hear the DV open at all (and did before). I'my also getting much less turbo lag and have not gotten the 2C57 code and half engine light this week. I'm also getting higher boost levels than before, but still am falling a bit short (1-2 psi).

I'm certain the silicone couplers to upper & lower cold side CP are secure. I'm also certain all 3 o-rings on TB and both FMIC pipes are good and installed properly. I'm also certain the c-clips on them are locked in on both sides, but there is more play in them than I'd like to see. I'm tempted to just get a new FMIC ...

The leak sounds like it's on the passenger side based on how it sounds when I try with different windows rolled up/down (ie I hear it best when pass window is down & drivers up).

05-23-2016, 10:49 PM	#1
cahme Second Lieutenant 120 Rep 226 Posts Drives: '11 E90 335i Sport MT Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Boost Leak This is my first turbo car which I picked up in Oct of last year. It was stock when I bought it and pretty much immediately added a CP & JB4 to an otherwise stock car. All my logs prior to May have shown no indication of any issues (ie boost met target). In May, I've developed a bit of a boost leak. I've mostly babied the car on map 0 since then as I've not had alot of time to investigate, but I did get a 2C57 code once with the half engine. I can hear the leak when driving with windows down. It sounds to me the leak is from the passenger side and I never hear the DV releasing pressure at all anymore. The only thing I've messed with around this time-frame is a coolant flush in which I did pull the FMIC to get to drain the WP. I have since double checked the FMIC connections and they are solid. I also checked all of the obvious connections (CP, vacuum) and couldn't see anything obvious as well as sprayed starter fluid at various points with no difference. My plan is to buy one of these leak testers: http://turboboostleaktesters.com/bmw...bo-twin-power/ Anybody have experiences or reasons not to go this route? I've logged some 2'nd gear pulls (paranoid to make 3'rd gear pulls and don't see how it would help). Here are the datazap links and I've got the JB4 screen shots attached: Map 1 Datazap Map 4 Datazap Is there anything obvious here, or other advise? EDIT 7/31/16: It turns out my problem was a blown Diverter Valve. See this thread for more details & pics Attached Images Last edited by cahme; 07-31-2016 at 01:58 PM..
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06-11-2016, 07:14 PM	#2
cahme Second Lieutenant 120 Rep 226 Posts Drives: '11 E90 335i Sport MT Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Here's an update and I could really use some experienced opinions. I did buy the leak tester, but didn't really find anything. At about 5psi, it would leak out the intake pipe at the turbo intake (ie un-compressed side). I still checked as best as I could by sound and with soapy water, but couldn't find any leaks other than the turbo intake. It did also hold pressure pretty well and did leak down at less than 1 psi per sec. I also checked all of the hot-side and cold-side piping. I reset both FMIC connections and verified the o-rings and loosened and re-tightened the lower CP to upper CP couplings and didn't notice anything loose or wrong. After this I did get a few more 2C57 codes after what felt and sounded like no boost being generated at all. Today, I've swapped in a new boost solenoid and completely pulled the cold side piping out of the car for an easier check. Upon testing, I could still hear the leak and I did get higher boost levels but still not to target. The map 4 pull was pretty close to target (about 1 psi off) and the next map1 pulls were back to 2-3 psi off. My thoughts now are: - the cold side piping is very solid and all of the stock connections are connected as designed - While the clips are engaged, there seems to be more "slop" than I'd expect at the turbo outlet, but all clips are secure and I could find no cracks and all o-rings are properly installed - At this point, I'm considering going with GFB DV+ and then maybe a VRSF FMIC with the upgraded hot side lower CP. Any thoughts?
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06-11-2016, 10:45 PM	#3
weehe126 Brigadier General 1189 Rep 3,228 Posts Drives: 2017 340i Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: San Antonio iTrader: (2)	What CP did you buy and did you change firmware on the JB4 at all? Does the CP have a meth bung?
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06-12-2016, 09:15 AM	#4
cahme Second Lieutenant 120 Rep 226 Posts Drives: '11 E90 335i Sport MT Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Firmware is 5.9 and has been since I installed it in Nov. CP is VRSF and yes it does have one meth bung; I'll check it today. The other two things I forgot to mention I find odd is: 1) My PWM isn't maxed. Most boost leak logs I've seen has the PWM maxed 2) My AFR isn't rich. If I'm leaking 3psi of boost, I'd expect to be running at least a little on the rich side. This is another reason I think my DV is leaking.
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06-12-2016, 12:17 PM	#6
weehe126 Brigadier General 1189 Rep 3,228 Posts Drives: 2017 340i Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: San Antonio iTrader: (2)	post a picture of your user adjustments tab. You probably have something messed with with duty bias
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06-13-2016, 12:27 PM	#7
JETmn Lieutenant Colonel 247 Rep 1,595 Posts Drives: 2011 335i xDrive Msport Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Orlando iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 335Xi [0.00]	I would check your CP connections. O-ring on the CP is in good shape? Clamp is properly tightened? Always start with the things you have changed and once you have eliminated them then move on. __________________ 2011 335Xi 6AT - VRSF catless DP - VRSF 7" FMIC with turbo inlet pipe - VRSF chargepipe - Pure Stage 1 turbo - JB4 - E30 - xHP Stage 3 - Strongflex tension bushings - Whiteline RSFB - UUC rear swaybar
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06-15-2016, 11:21 PM	#8
cahme Second Lieutenant 120 Rep 226 Posts Drives: '11 E90 335i Sport MT Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Haven't really had time this week to do much. I've reset user settings to the settings as seen on the n55 ISO thread @ n54tech. I believe the boost solenoid was a problem. I still have an audible boost leak and I never hear the DV open at all (and did before). I'my also getting much less turbo lag and have not gotten the 2C57 code and half engine light this week. I'm also getting higher boost levels than before, but still am falling a bit short (1-2 psi). I'm certain the silicone couplers to upper & lower cold side CP are secure. I'm also certain all 3 o-rings on TB and both FMIC pipes are good and installed properly. I'm also certain the c-clips on them are locked in on both sides, but there is more play in them than I'd like to see. I'm tempted to just get a new FMIC ... The leak sounds like it's on the passenger side based on how it sounds when I try with different windows rolled up/down (ie I hear it best when pass window is down & drivers up).
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