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      06-13-2014, 11:18 AM   #1
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Burger Tuning BMS sport oil cooler valve upgrade

This looks like a new product. Has anyone had any experience with this? And when would one want to upgrade this part?

I got some oil in the intercooler and I'm going to be adding an oil catch can and a RB PCV valve so I was wondering if I should do this at the same time?

http://www.burgertuning.com/sport_oil_cooler_valve.html
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      06-13-2014, 11:25 AM   #2
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It wont hurt you it just keeps the sport oil cooler open allowing the car to run slighty colder BMS says 10-20 degrees.
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      06-13-2014, 11:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zombie1 View Post
It wont hurt you it just keeps the sport oil cooler open allowing the car to run slighty colder BMS says 10-20 degrees.
Its been around for a while (1+ years I think). If you are in an overheating situation like on a track it is not going to help, but on a street car it can have some positive effects.

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      06-13-2014, 12:13 PM   #4
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It has been out for a while.
Lots of positive reviews, just double check that it is compatible with your car.
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      06-13-2014, 01:12 PM   #5
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I couldn't find any reviews or threads on the actual valve, only the oil catch can. Can you share some links?
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      08-05-2014, 12:52 PM   #6
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I have one question , I have a european N54 , not sure if its any different from the US N54.

But I bought the oilcooler bypass valve from BMS , its a simple piece really.

But this is what I dont understand , how is it supposed to fit inside the oil thermostat housing ? Mine have one long pin and one shorter , the shorter is pointing outwards according to install instructions , but this leaves the valve not seated.

Also , the OEM valve is on its widest , 25mm , the BMS is 24mm

Instead I used the OEM , did this first , removed the spring , then put the OEM valve back in the same way as stock , put the spring then in next to lock the valve in inner position. And put the cap back on.

Wont this work ?
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      08-10-2014, 09:58 AM   #7
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I've had mine installed for about a year now. Definitely works to keep oil temps down. Rarely does my temp gauge go past 200F. Down side is it takes car up to 10 mins longer to warm up (more noticeable during winter months, but have to be careful all year long boosting above stock turbo PSI on short local trips if car isn't fully warmed up and I'm in a hurry. Located in the Delaware/Maryland area). I've thought about installing a remote start to help with this issue.

The other downside is that my seals started leaking around the Oil Filter and Oil Cooler Thermostat housings shortly after installing this. You have to remove one of the large bolts for clearance during installation, and this seems to shift the seals just enough to cause a leak if they are already worn. So beware of that, as it's very common. My car only had 56k miles on it, just under 60K now.

Hope this helps.
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      08-10-2014, 11:26 AM   #8
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As stated above, it just changes it from a thermostat to open all the time - it ultimately just makes it take longer for the oil to warm up, and on cool days it will keep the temps down about 20 degrees on the highway, but if it is hot and you are pushing the car, the thermostat would be open anyway and thus really isn't doing anything. Basically it keeps my oil temps even cooler when they are not really a problem and then it get's hot enough to be of any issue the thermostat would be open anyway. I am going to put my thermostat back I think as my car now takes my entire commute to warmup instead of just half my commute.
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      08-10-2014, 01:11 PM   #9
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I have that oil cooler valve as it's gets pretty hot in traffic in central TX and it definitely drops the oil temp down 10-20 degrees. Super easy install and it's cheap. I don't notice much of a difference in warm up time either.
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      08-10-2014, 02:57 PM   #10
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I have it. It does what it is suppose to do. You can DIY it by reverse the spring in your oil cooler. http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18502. The basic principal is that it lets your oil to run through your oil cooler/radiator at all time. If you sit in traffic there is not a lot of air float through the radiator to cool down your oil. However, It will cool down your oil by 10-20f easy when you drive. Also, I don't see the different between the bms plug or the dyi version. I have the plug in my car and my buddy have the DIY both car has exact same mods and fuel. I don't see any reason for buying the bms plug.

Last edited by lukeperformance; 08-10-2014 at 03:02 PM..
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      06-18-2016, 06:05 AM   #11
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I guess its useless in hot weather.
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      06-18-2016, 11:28 AM   #12
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The AD Engineering version provides the happy medium between cooling and winter warmup. 92 degrees the other night and I was seeing 210 degrees while cruising at 80 + mph. It used to be around 235 min to 245.
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      06-19-2016, 12:48 PM   #13
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thats interesting, i have one but have never fitted it. if it doesnt make things cooler during demanding conditions then i wont wont bother, it takes too long to warm up as it is
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      06-19-2016, 01:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZanaX View Post
I couldn't find any reviews or threads on the actual valve, only the oil catch can. Can you share some links?
Here's a pretty good review on BMS. I am also worried about the engine taking forever to warm up. The author recommends a happy medium. Does the AD Engineering part accomplish this?

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/my-tho...ass-1687405218

http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p19/BMW_...hermostat.html
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      06-19-2016, 01:58 PM   #15
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      06-19-2016, 02:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzie335i View Post
The AD Engineering version provides the happy medium between cooling and winter warmup. 92 degrees the other night and I was seeing 210 degrees while cruising at 80 + mph. It used to be around 235 min to 245.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gohan335i7 View Post
Subbed
The AD engineering and BMS's offering do nothing but have the car warm up longer. It's not a solution to what we all need.
We need a TRUE oil T-stat that will keep that car at below 220degrees. IMO
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      06-19-2016, 03:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Dub View Post
The AD engineering and BMS's offering do nothing but have the car warm up longer. It's not a solution to what we all need.
We need a TRUE oil T-stat that will keep that car at below 220degrees. IMO
But the AD one has a spring like the stock piece that may open up sooner. BMS doesn't even have a spring. Can someone with the AD chime in?
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      06-19-2016, 04:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer 808 View Post
But the AD one has a spring like the stock piece that may open up sooner. BMS doesn't even have a spring. Can someone with the AD chime in?
You'll find the thread if you search on the "other" forum. I can't post a link or I'll get banned for it.
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      06-19-2016, 05:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer 808 View Post
But the AD one has a spring like the stock piece that may open up sooner. BMS doesn't even have a spring. Can someone with the AD chime in?
The spring is not functional... The difference between the BMS and stock bypass (and AD) is BMS removed the bypass holes which are used to let oil flow over the thermostat element that is now no longer there. This forces all of the oil across the cooler rather than letting a fixed percentage always bypass.

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      06-19-2016, 06:07 PM   #20
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I chose the AD since in the other forum people did controlled tests on the winter warm up and the AD was the happy medium between cooling and the engine warming up sooner in the winter. People had to take out the BMS and go back to stock in the winter. They did not have to do so with the AD.
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