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      08-04-2016, 09:37 AM   #1
Riick
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Replacing leaking upper rad hose, quick question

2010 E90 328i.

Through the miracle of the BMW gods, I'm at 120k miles still on the original water pump. Zero codes with a scanner. Pump RPM is 99% of OEM spec. The bad part is, the rest of the cooling system is wearing.

The upper hose is leaking and I got a new one, Looks to be pretty straight forward.. pull the quick release things (two big ones, one small one), cut the crimp hose clamp, and do the process in reverse with the new hose.

Two questions:

What size hose clamp for that little hose? Can I use a screw style or better to put a crimp style back on there?

How much antifreeze should I pick up?

While I'm asking, anyone got a quick rundown to the air bleed procedure?

Last edited by Riick; 08-04-2016 at 09:45 AM..
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      08-04-2016, 01:12 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
2010 E90 328i.

Through the miracle of the BMW gods, I'm at 120k miles still on the original water pump. Zero codes with a scanner. Pump RPM is 99% of OEM spec. The bad part is, the rest of the cooling system is wearing.

The upper hose is leaking and I got a new one, Looks to be pretty straight forward.. pull the quick release things (two big ones, one small one), cut the crimp hose clamp, and do the process in reverse with the new hose.

Two questions:

What size hose clamp for that little hose? Can I use a screw style or better to put a crimp style back on there?

How much antifreeze should I pick up?

While I'm asking, anyone got a quick rundown to the air bleed procedure?
1 gallon bmw blue to mix with 1 gallon distilled water; smallest size clamp, just eyeball it
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Last edited by ssdara; 08-04-2016 at 09:17 PM..
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      08-04-2016, 06:04 PM   #3
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I posted a DIY for replacing the entire 9 hose set. It addresses each hose individually. Look it up in the DIY section or on my page.
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      08-04-2016, 10:38 PM   #4
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Change your WP! They're only $375 and you won't be stranded on road WHEN it overheats
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      08-05-2016, 10:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamaben View Post
Change your WP! They're only $375 and you won't be stranded on road WHEN it overheats
Tell me about it. 120k is playing with fire.
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      08-06-2016, 01:16 PM   #6
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This is what style I used. I actually had a few laying around from previous parts cars. You see this style a lot from the factory. I think it looks a little cleaner than a cheap worm gear clamp. I was going to use a factory style pinch clamp, but it is nice to unhook that hose when removing the cooling fan.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...099/89012428-P
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      08-07-2016, 09:45 AM   #7
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Figures, I was bitten by the BMW crack of shame.

It wasn't the upper hose that was leaking 1 liter every 2 weeks, it's the upper plastic radiator neck cracked at the mold line. Cleaned and JB welded until my new Behr arrives this week from Rock Auto ($138 shipped).

Annnnnddddd of course you have to vent the A/C system to get the rad out. A quick after work project turns into trying to track down a friend with a vacuum pump and gauges so I don't sweat my balls off in this 100 degree FL weather.

Must be this weather we've been having lately, the rad in my father's car also cracked.
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      08-07-2016, 09:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
Figures, I was bitten by the BMW crack of shame.

It wasn't the upper hose that was leaking 1 liter every 2 weeks, it's the upper plastic radiator neck cracked at the mold line. Cleaned and JB welded until my new Behr arrives this week from Rock Auto ($138 shipped).

Annnnnddddd of course you have to vent the A/C system to get the rad out. A quick after work project turns into trying to track down a friend with a vacuum pump and gauges so I don't sweat my balls off in this 100 degree FL weather.

Must be this weather we've been having lately, the rad in my father's car also cracked.
You do not need to vent the AC system. The radiator comes out with one Torx screw and releasing a clip on the left side.
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      08-08-2016, 08:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
You do not need to vent the AC system. The radiator comes out with one Torx screw and releasing a clip on the left side.
Get out of here really? Do you have any pics of which screw and where the clips are?
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      08-08-2016, 09:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riick View Post
Get out of here really? Do you have any pics of which screw and where the clips are?
Just read the DIY I posted on replacing the hoses.
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      08-11-2016, 11:32 PM   #11
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New radiator and upper/lower hoses are in! Wasn't too hard, only took 3 hours from start to finish (including running the purge cycle 3 times for good measure). Only had one small leak which was the transmission push in coolant line, I was able to take the screw out and reseat it without draining the system (it was a hair crooked) and that took care of that.

This weekend i'll throw some new brake rotors in the front they're starting to get shaky, one of the tire pressure sensors died this week, and one of the window switches (passenger front) broke on the drivers window control in the door, I'll ebay one. Also the front arm bushings are making noises, I'll replace with M3 units later this year that have the urethane bushes instead of the fluid filled ones that will just break again.

Not bad for 121k miles, almost back to brand new condition! It's only had engine oil changes, trans oil changes, brake fluid flush, all the other normal maintenance. When it was under warranty it got a new starter, coil packs, valve cover gasket. Maybe I'll do the rear diff fluid too.

Guess I got a good one after reading that guy's 10k horror story in constant repairs.
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