[bsmoov]

I recently replaced my waterpump/thermostat last weekend.

Easy, but time consuming and frustrating. Install went well. Systems check out good. Bleed system and electronic water pump activated the bleeding process. Great!!!

Car ran great. Car still runs great currently.

Here's where it gets tricky. I topped off the coolant a day after the initial bleed procedure. I tried to activate the water pump to bleed again due to fear of air pockets when I topped it off but the waterpump wont turn on. I tried all methods, but the water pump wont turn on anymore. (It did the first time after install)

Car still runs great. I ran diagnostics and I got the waterpump communication error.

My question is the car runs great now, but I'm afraid that since there is no communication between the waterpump and the car, could I possibly be running hot and it won't give me warning light or go into limp mode?

The last thing I want is to think everything is fine and dandy, but I'm running with a yellow/red coolant light and I don't or will not know it.

When installing the waterpump I noticed the connector was filthy, but I didn't thoroughly clean it and coolant dripping down while draining could have splashed on the connector as well. I also noticed the connector didn't "click" when I attached it to the waterpump and it wasn't fully on, but I finally got it to latch on securely after a few attempts (at least I hope so) as I tried the tug test and it stayed on.

I also did some research and I found out that the red box thing above the battery could have failed as I'm apparently having voltage issues as well when I scanned my car for codes. I don't have any voltage symptoms though whatsoever.

Is it safe to drive the car with the apparent waterpump communication error until I get a chance to figure this out?

[patents]

Was the pump communication error generated before or after you replaced the pump?

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by patents

Was the pump communication error generated before or after you replaced the pump?

I don't believe so. I scanned my car a few times before and I never received any messages on the water pump.

The water pump failed a few days ago and I diy'ed it this past weekend. Everything was good to go. Even the water pump activation for bleeding.


Me being me, I decided to top off and bleed one more time for good measure but now I can't get the pump to activate. This is when I checked the codes and I saw the water pump communication error (also some voltage errors I never seen before).

Doing more research I'm gonna check the fuses in the glovebox and check the distribution box panel on top of the battery as others have reported those areas had burnt fuses and could also be why I have voltage errors now...(my car has NO signs of voltage problems)


I want to know if its safe to drive.

If the water pump has a communication error, could I be driving with a yellow/red coolant light and not know it due to the water pump not being able to communicate to the e90 computer?

Car runs great, but that error really worries me right now until I can resolve the error.

[Squark]

The coolant temperature sensor is separate from the water pump. If you overheat, your car will let you know, even if it can't communicate with the water pump. That said, I'd be wary of driving with the water pump showing codes.

[bsmoov]

Thanks squark, that's good to know!!!

I think I'm safe. The waterpump is brand new and so is the thermostat. I'm sure I'll have those codes taken care of shortly. My battery is on its last legs and I just checked my distributor box that goes above the battery during lunch and it was loose as hell.

I read up on some other threads with the same problem it's either a fuse or voltage issue and as soon as they addressed it the water pump fired up as usual.

[kkasson]

What's your resting battery voltage? It's possible that the pump won't turn on if the voltage is too low. You could start the engine with the coolant cap off. You'll see water flowing if the pump is running.

[bsmoov]

Kkasson: not sure I'm still at work. But I know for a fact that my battery is on its last legs. It dies if I leave the dome light on or radio for more than 3 minutes after I shut off the car. It's OEM original and its at 130k right now.

[frenchi]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

Kkasson: not sure I'm still at work. But I know for a fact that my battery is on its last legs. It dies if I leave the dome light on or radio for more than 3 minutes after I shut off the car. It's OEM original and its at 130k right now.

then you found your problem...bleeding procedure need a healthy battery as it takes 12 min to fully bleed your system. Replace, recode battery and bleed system again.

[Bamaben]

You should hook up to battery tender when doing bleed procedure to keep from killing your battery

[patents]

Yep, battery is your problem. The car won't do the bleed because it knows there is not enough battery power to run the cycle.

If you didn't clear the codes after changing the pump, the communication error could have been stored right before you changed it when the old pump was still in.

As stated, you are fine to drive. Except that your battery is dying.

Make sure you code/register the new battery as necessary.

Not quite sure that a blown fuse would cause a voltage error. When a fuse blows the entire circuit is dead, so something won't be working at all.

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by patents

Yep, battery is your problem. The car won't do the bleed because it knows there is not enough battery power to run the cycle.

If you didn't clear the codes after changing the pump, the communication error could have been stored right before you changed it when the old pump was still in.

As stated, you are fine to drive. Except that your battery is dying.

Make sure you code/register the new battery as necessary.

Not quite sure that a blown fuse would cause a voltage error. When a fuse blows the entire circuit is dead, so something won't be working at all.

As for the blown fuse, I was thinking the waterpump's fuse or something related to it was blown causing the waterpump not to run the bleed cycle.

The car runs great and the waterpump is apparently working but im just getting the communication error as well as some voltage errors.

The battery's resting voltage was just at about 12v, sometimes dipping into the high 11.+

I haven't had time to change the battery yet. Will do in the next coming days to the walmart maxx-h8 and will register it as well.

[bsmoov]

W T F ???

Ok. Bought a new battery. Install was a breeze. Registering the battery was easy.

Now time to test the waterpump/bleed cycle. No go.

Checked for codes. Same waterpump communication code, but at least no more voltage codes. Cleared all codes.

Tried to test waterpump/bleed cycle again. No go.

Ran for codes again, all codes are clear. No waterpump codes. No codes at all. 0 errors.

Yet waterpump still won't start the bleed cycle...what now? Fuses?

[patents]

You don't really need the bleed cycle anyway, so just drive the car.

[Donutz]

Have you tried to disconnect the electrical connection on the water pump and inspect it? I'd inspect the connector, then try to reconnect it

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by Donutz

Have you tried to disconnect the electrical connection on the water pump and inspect it? I'd inspect the connector, then try to reconnect it

I will this weekend. I work 10 hour days and by the time I get home its getting dark already. I hope that is the culprit, something simple as a loose or dirty plug.

Patents: Yes, im driving the car as it's my daily and I'm not worried about it since its a brand new waterpump and TS. I'm just curious on why it worked the first time right after install, but not anymore. I'm stumped.

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by Donutz

Have you tried to disconnect the electrical connection on the water pump and inspect it? I'd inspect the connector, then try to reconnect it

Well I finally got a chance to mess with it this weekend. I did my ofhg and oil change and while I was under the car I had to clean the drippings from some spillage due to the ofhg.

I unplugged the connector, it looked dirty and blew on it (getting dirt in my eyes in the process) and reconnected it and made sure it was tight.

NOW THE WATER PUMP CYCLES THE BLEEDING PROCESS!!!

I've been manually bleeding it to make sure it has no air pockets, but when I did the ofhg, I lost some coolant so I had to add some and in between the top off and the ofhg being opened up I knew I introduced air into the system. Good thing it works now.