[DarrenO]

Hi guys,

Need help with this as spent plenty of time and money with no changing effects as of yet.

Car is feeling very unbalanced and not very predictable in means of steering/suspension set up.

It is an E92 335d 2007

I have recently upgraded the shocks to Bilstein (removed top locating pin on fronts) and kept stock M-sport springs on. Both front arms have been replaced (TRW M3 variants), new rear toe arms along with both sides adjuster bolts (camber & toe).

I have been and had a 4 wheel alignment carried out by my specialist/tuning company (in which I'm a dealer for also) only for the car to feel exactly the same as it originally did before. I personally did the work on component swap and noticed all other bushings to be fine as well as it having the once over by the specialists prior to wheel alignment.

I'm left in the dark here a little as next steps advised was to either get adjustable top mounts for front (apparently not much movement even with pin removed), put car on a jig to check alignment, or modify the turrets by means of more room to adjust struts.

I'm now at a lost point with this car as spent a fair whack on it already. I want positive, predictive steering and not the "confidence losing" set up it currently has. My friend has exactly the same car but with coilovers on, I believe was set up (geometry wise) to M3 spec, stock arms, roll bars, bushes and the car is super slick and extremely positive and confidence inspiring.

Is there a solution to this by means of a common issue that I've missed here??

Many thanks for any input, could even be prize to get this resolved lol

[thakid22]

Originally Posted by DarrenO

Hi guys,

Need help with this as spent plenty of time and money with no changing effects as of yet.

Car is feeling very unbalanced and not very predictable in means of steering/suspension set up.

It is an E92 335d 2007

I have recently upgraded the shocks to Bilstein (removed top locating pin on fronts) and kept stock M-sport springs on. Both front arms have been replaced (TRW M3 variants), new rear toe arms along with both sides adjuster bolts (camber & toe).

I have been and had a 4 wheel alignment carried out by my specialist/tuning company (in which I'm a dealer for also) only for the car to feel exactly the same as it originally did before. I personally did the work on component swap and noticed all other bushings to be fine as well as it having the once over by the specialists prior to wheel alignment.

I'm left in the dark here a little as next steps advised was to either get adjustable top mounts for front (apparently not much movement even with pin removed), put car on a jig to check alignment, or modify the turrets by means of more room to adjust struts.

I'm now at a lost point with this car as spent a fair whack on it already. I want positive, predictive steering and not the "confidence losing" set up it currently has. My friend has exactly the same car but with coilovers on, I believe was set up (geometry wise) to M3 spec, stock arms, roll bars, bushes and the car is super slick and extremely positive and confidence inspiring.

Is there a solution to this by means of a common issue that I've missed here??

Many thanks for any input, could even be prize to get this resolved lol

Give a bit more information... What is the car doing? What is it not doing? How does it feel when it is (or isn't) doing it.

How many miles do you have? What tires are you running?

Without having a full picture of your cars state, I'd still like to share a couple of things with you. I have found the 3 series has very good steering, right out of the box. However, there are two points on the steering rack itself that can bring the life back to the steering rack if you adjust them.

There is a preload adjustment bolt on the rack, at the base where the steering column meets. Tightening this a smidge will take slop out of old/worn racks. There is also a bolt where the upper and lower steering shafts meet. This is often a bit loose on high milage (60k+) BMWs.
If you adjust both of these points, I bet you will see a night and day difference in your steering!

Below are the two threads that show in detail where to make the adjustments.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256125
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...-heavy-t55956/


Do you have bounce/hop @ the rear of the car over bumpy/broken surfaces?
If so, then check out this thread about Dinan rear strut mounts that will cure that for $99 and 20 minutes of time. Monroe makes mounts for significantly less that are also said to work.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php

[DarrenO]

Hey, thanks for the reply and the links you have sent (will check them out shortly).

Car is currently sat at 100k.

To explain the steering I would start by saying unpredictable and at times very vague. The front end doesn't quite feel in tune with the rear if this makes any sense 🤔. With you explaining about the UJ connection to the rack I would say at times there are signs of this whilst others there isn't. I've had a few E90's over the years and was sure these were good out the box however I did have a 4 year driving break. Another way of describing it would be something similar either a standard E36 or an E46 touring.

I've not been able to actually push this car unless on a straight and even then I'm unsure of how the steering will react.

Camber on the front I'm lead to believe that nearside is a little different to the offside.

[gunnerxq]

Originally Posted by thakid22

Give a bit more information... What is the car doing? What is it not doing? How does it feel when it is (or isn't) doing it.
How many miles do you have? What tires are you running?

Without having a full picture of your cars state, I'd still like to share a couple of things with you. I have found the 3 series has very good steering, right out of the box. However, there are two points on the steering rack itself that can bring the life back to the steering rack if you adjust them.

There is a preload adjustment bolt on the rack, at the base where the steering column meets. Tightening this a smidge will take slop out of old/worn racks. There is also a bolt where the upper and lower steering shafts meet. This is often a bit loose on high milage (60k+) BMWs.
If you adjust both of these points, I bet you will see a night and day difference in your steering!

Below are the two threads that show in detail where to make the adjustments.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=256125
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...-heavy-t55956/


Do you have bounce/hop @ the rear of the car over bumpy/broken surfaces?
If so, then check out this thread about Dinan rear strut mounts that will cure that for $99 and 20 minutes of time. Monroe makes mounts for significantly less that are also said to work.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php

How do you adjust the pre load adjustment bolt? Just turn it cloclwise?

[thakid22]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

How do you adjust the pre load adjustment bolt? Just turn it cloclwise?

Yes. The bolt turns quite easily too. Adjust it, then go for a drive. If you feel no difference, try again. The bolt itself won't feel tighter as you turn it, so it is just trial and error. I turned too far initially.When I got back in the car, the steering wheel would not return completely to its center point after negotiating a turn. So I lessened the adjustment and drove again. After a try or two, I got it just right. It may help if you mark the adjustment bolts original position before you make your initial adjustment. But it's not necessary, as it is very easy to dial it in.

[gunnerxq]

Originally Posted by thakid22

Yes. The bolt turns quite easily too. Adjust it, then go for a drive. If you feel no difference, try again. The bolt itself won't feel tighter as you turn it, so it is just trial and error. I turned too far initially.When I got back in the car, the steering wheel would not return completely to its center point after negotiating a turn. So I lessened the adjustment and drove again. After a try or two, I got it just right. It may help if you mark the adjustment bolts original position before you make your initial adjustment. But it's not necessary, as it is very easy to dial it in.

You're talking about that big bolt right? 17 mm or whatever. The big one in the bottom in this picture?


I tried turning it a few weeks ago but it would not budge.

[thakid22]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

You're talking about that big bolt right? 17 mm or whatever. The big one in the bottom in this picture?


I tried turning it a few weeks ago but it would not budge.

Yes. That is it right to the left of the black accordion boot.
It should move with a little effort. You don't have active steering do you? Those may be different.
Could yours be seized?
Does your bolt look like the one in the picture,or is the area around it more solid, with no slats around the bolt? It should be identical to the picture that you posted.

[gunnerxq]

Originally Posted by thakid22

Yes. That is it right to the left of the black accordion boot.
It should move with a little effort. You don't have active steering do you? Those may be different.
Could yours be seized?
Does your bolt look like the one in the picture,or is the area around it more solid, with no slats around the bolt? It should be identical to the picture that you posted.

I don't have active steering and mine looks exactly like that. I'll try again later today. Do I have to do anything with that black thing in the middle of the bolt?

[gunnerxq]

The bolt is seized and now it's stripped...

[thakid22]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

The bolt is seized and now it's stripped...

Ugh! I hate stripped bolts. A muffler shop might be able to weld an attachment to the bolt so that it may be broken free and turned.